Colour in woven design

• Adjacent colours, effects of, 42.
• Analogous colour contrasts, 50, 55.
• Analysis of colour compounds, 72.
• of light, 9.
• of standardization scheme of colouring, 62.
• Art and technique in design, 320.
• Astrakhan fabrics, 354.
• Attributes of blue, 27.
• of green, 37.
• of orange, 37.
• of purple, 40.
• of red, 23.
• of yellow, 37.
• Backed cloths, colour applied to, 94.
• Backed-weave combinations in relation to colour, 96.
• Black and bright colour contrasts, 55.
• use of, in mixtures, 78, 80.
• Blending, use of standard colours in, 63.
• Blends, simple, 70.
• Blue, derivatives of, 28.
• its properties and uses, 27.
• shades and tints of, 30.
• uses of, in twist yarns, 33.
• Brodie tartan, 150.
• Brussels carpets, 332.
• Carpets, tapestry and Brussels, 332.
• Characteristics of red, 23.
• Check, basket (in two colours), 128.
• broken (in two colours), 128.
• (common) modification of, 132.
• consisting of two sizes of squares, 124.
• counter-change, 126.
• graduated, 127.
• interchanging, 135.
• ordinary (in three shades), 130.
• patterns, 119.
• set, 131.
• shaded (in black and white), 136.
• (in two colours, using designs composed of several weaves), 139.
• Check and stripe designs, spotted, 277.
• Checking, compound (in three shades), 133.
• principles of (in three shades), 129.
• Checking, Principles of. See List of Figs., page xix.
• Checks, 102.
• fancy, 145.
• irregular and mixture, 142.
• Citron, 16.
• Clan Alpin tartan, 157.
• Colour applied to single-make figured fabrics, 95.
• effects in the plain weave, 99.
• in the [2/2] twill, 99.
• Colour Effects, Elementary Standard. See List of Figs., page xx.
• Colour Effects in Compound Weave Designs. See List of Figs., page xxii.
• Colour, method of applying to textiles, 5, 7.
• in relation to backed and compound cloths, 94.
• in simple and fancy weaves, 93.
• occurrence and utility of, in fabrics, 3, 4.
• phenomena of, 7.
• Colour standardization, 61.
• analysis of the scheme of, 62.
• application of, 60.
• by selected colours, 62.
• standards, use of in blending, 63.
• Colouring, elements of, 92.
• figuring in the weft, 96.
• warp, 97.
• warp and weft, 97.
• 1-and-1, figured styles in, 164, 167.
• 3-and-3, effects in, 170.
• 4-and-4, effects in, 171.
• 4-and-4, effects in (fancy weaves), 172.
• 6-and-6 and 8-and-8, 173.
• 6-and-6 in various weaves, 174.
• mixture, 67.
• simple weave, 94.
• three-odd-thread arrangement of, 175.
• Colouring of Spotted Designs. See List of Figs., page xxii.
• Colouring Specific Weaves and Designs, Illustrative of. See List of Figs., page x.
• Colouring, tartan, 145.
• types of woven, 93.
• Colouring in the Warp, Principles of. See List of Figs., page xxiii.
• Colouring in the Weft, Principles of. See List of Figs., page xxiii.
• Colourings, 1-and-1 and 2-and-2, 163.
• irregular simple order of, 182.
• methods of obtaining well-balanced, 32.
• (regular type), table of, 161.
• simple, 159.
• simple in four shades, 180.
• Colours, changed by juxtaposition, 42.
• constants of, 17.
• methods of modifying, 25.
• primary, 15.
• pure, functions of, in design, 21.
• qualities of, 20.
• spectral, weave frequency of, 9.
• temperature of, 17.
• tints and tones of, 25.
• Composition of coloured lights, 14.
• Compound colouring, 192.
• composed of three elementary types, 194.
• in compound weaves, 312.
• types of, 199.
• Compound Weave Colouring. See List of Figs., page xxiii.
• Compound Colourings, Examples in. See List of Figs., page xxi.
• Compound colours, 15, 72.
• Compounds composed of two simple types, 201.
• two types and three shades, 203.
• four shades, 219.
• irregular, 218.
• Contrast, 43.
• economic, 47.
• examples in, 46.
• kinds of, 38.
• mono-chromatic, 47, 50.
• poly-chromatic, 48.
• shaded and tinted, 53.
• (strong colour) methods of neutralising, 57.
• tinted, 50.
• Cord or rib weaves and colouring, 240.
• Corkscrew weaves, colouring of, 221.
• modified and colouring, 223.
• and other weaves spotted, 282.
• Cotton quiltings, 324.
• stripes, 259.
• weaves, colouring applied to, 232.
• Crawford tartan, 150.
• Cuninghame tartan, 150.
• Curl textures, 354.
• (cotton warp) designs for, 365.
• developed in milling, 362.
• by using spiral twist yarns, 363.
• effects produced in, with wires, 357.
• formed in the weft, the warp being cotton, 359.
• four types of, 357.
• varieties of, due to colour, 364.
• (weft principle) structure of, 362.
• Derivatives of blue, 28.
• of green, 37.
• of orange, 39.
• of purple, 40.
• of red, 23.
• of yellow, 36.
• Design, elements of woven, 1.
• function of pure colours in, 21.
• Designs composed of several weaves of varied structures, 261.
• Diagonals, 230.
• composed of single and double weaves, 231.
• spotted, 283.
• Double cloths, colour in relation to, 94.
• principles of colouring, 295.
• styles of colour effects in, 296.
• Double-plain stripes, 296.
• in two shades, 297.
• (warped irregularly), 298.
• in three shades, 301.
• intermingled pattern, 302.
• weaves combined with other makes, 302.
• Douglas (Grey) tartan, 149.
• Dundas tartan, 155.
• Duke of Rothesay tartan, 146, 150.
• Elementary Colour Effects, Standard. See List of Figs., page xx.
• Elements of textile colouring, 91.
• Elliot tartan, 153.
• Erskine tartan, 146.
• Examples in colour contrasts, 46.
• Examples in Compound Colourings. See List of Figs., page xxi.
• Extra-weft patterns, 336.
• colouring (two-cover styles), 346.
• (four-cover styles), 347.
• Fabrics, compound patterns in, 198.
• Fancy broken check, 145.
• weaves, colouring of, 168.
• Feather trimming (weft-pile fabric), 360.
• Figured fabrics, 95.
• methods of colouring, 319.
• striped in the warp, 264.
• warp colouring of, 97, 321.
• and weft colouring of, 97.
• Gauze textures, 234.
• imitation, 238.
• systems of colouring, 237.
• Gimp twist yarns, 289.
• Golf cloakings, 315.
• Gow tartan, 150.
• Granite effects, 228.
• Green, attributes of, 37.
• derivatives of, 37.
• tints of, 38.
• Grey (bloomed) mixtures, 81.
• (coloured) mixtures, 82.
• (neutral) mixtures, 80.
• Hairline patterns, 105.
• Hamilton tartan, 151.
• Harmony, principles of colour, 59.
• Hay tartan, 146.
• Indian shawl, colouring of, 22.
• Irregular compounds, 218.
• simple patterns in two shades, 184.
• in three shades, 186.
• simple colourings, tables of, 182.
• stripe and check spotting, 277.
• Irregulars in two shades, 183.
• in three shades, 186.
• in four shades, 188.
• Juxtaposed colours, 43.
• Keith tartan, 150.
• Knop twist yarns, 289.
• Light, analysis of, 9.
• Lights, coloured, composition of, 14.
• Loom productions, occurrence and utility of colour in, 3.
• MacArthur tartan, 150.
• Macintosh tartan, 150.
• MacKinnon tartan, 154.
• MacLean tartan, 157.
• MacLeod tartan, 150.
• Makes of fabric, colour applied to, 221.
• Marls, 90.
• Mat weaves spotted, 282.
• Materials, importance of pure in mixtures, 68.
• Mathieson tartan, 150.
• Maxwell tartan, 151.
• Menzies tartan, 146.
• Methods of applying colour to textiles, 5.
• of modifying colours, 25.
• Mixture checks, 142.
• Mixtures, bloomed grey, 81.
• coloured grey, 82.
• composed of a colour and black, 78.
• of a colour and white, 77.
• of two shades, 75.
• of two shades and black, 78.
• of two shades and white, 76.
• elements of colouring of, 67.
• multi-colour, 87.
• patterns, 66, 103.
• twist yarn, 89.
• two colour, 86.
• varieties of, compared, 69.
• weave, 91.
• Mono chromatic contrasts, 47, 50.
• Montgomery tartan, 147.
• Neutralizing strong colour contrasts, 57.
• Orange colour, 15.
• qualities of, 37.
• shades and tints of, 39.
• Overchecking, examples in, 125.
• Paisley shawl colouring, 349.
• Pattern design, 98.
• Patterns, checks (see also Checks), 102.
• drafted, 249.
• (drafted) consisting of two four-shaft weaves, 251.
• consisting of prunelle and [2\2] twill, 254.
• consisting of three or more weaves, 256.
• figured, 104.
• hairline, 105.
• mixture, 66.
• stripe, 101.
• Persian carpet, 22.
• Pigment and wool blends compared, 71.
• Pigments, colours resulting from combining, 15.
• Pile and curl fabrics, weft type of (cutting after weaving), 361.
• Plaids, types of, 146.
• two-colour, 146.
• three-colour, 150.
• four-colour, 153.
• five, six, and multi-colour, 157.
• Plush fabrics, 326.
• two classes of, 327.
• warp, 328.
• Poly-chromatic contrasts, 48.
• Primary colours, 15.
• Principles of Checking. See List of Figs., page xix.
• Principles of checking, 120, 129.
• Prismatic experiments, utility of, 11.
• Pure colours, functions of, in design, 21.
• Purple, 40.
• Qualifications of the textile colourist, 21.
• Qualities of colour, 20.
• Red, characteristics of, 23.
• derivatives of, 26.
• Reversibles arranged 2-and-1, 310.
• figured (double-plain and other weaves combined), 309.
• in compound weaves, 293.
• in double and compound weaves, 305.
• methods of colouring, 306.
• weft compound, 349.
• Rib or cord weaves, colouring applied to, 240.
• Ross tartan, 150.
• Royal Stuart tartan, 157.
• Russet, 16.
• Scale or “base” standard colours, 62.
• Schemes of colouring, 13.
• Shade and tinted contrast, 53.
• Shaded checks, 136.
• figuring, 142.
• stripes, 113.
• Shades and tints of blue, 30.
• of colours, 25.
• of green, 38.
• of orange, 39.
• Shawl (Paisley), colouring of, 349.
• Single pick weft spotting, 281.
• thread warp spotting, 279.
• Skene tartan, 150.
• Spectral colours, wave frequency of, 9.
• Spots composed of warp and weft floats, 271, 274.
• Spotted Designs, Colouring of. See List of Figs., page xxii.
• Spotted effects, 267.
• due to system of weaving, 269.
• in ordinary weaves, 290.
• Standard Elementary Colour Effects. See List of Figs., page ix.
• Standardization of colour, 60.
• applications of the scheme of, 65.
• by selected colours, 62.
• scheme analyzed, 62.
• systems of, 61.
• Stripe and check designs, spotted, 277.
• Stripes, 101.
• composed of longitudinal and transverse lines, 106.
• of two colours, 107.
• of three or more colours, 109.
• hairlines, 105.
• in double-plain weave, 296.
• (two shades), 297.
• irregular and indefinite in two colours, 111.
• composed of black and white lines, 110.
• containing several colours, 116.
• (shades in two colours), 112.
• shaded (in two colours), 113.
• (in several colours), 118.
• Strong colour contrasts, methods of neutralizing, 57.
• Swansdown twill ([1\3] or [3\1]) spotted, 270.
• Table of compound colourings, 199.
• Tapestry and Brussels carpets, 332, 333.
• Tartan, Brodie, 150.
• Clan Alpin, 157.
• Crawford, 150.
• Cunningham, 150.
• Duke of Rothesay, 146, 150.
• Dundas, 155.
• Elliot, 153.
• Erskine, 146.
• Fraser, 156.
• Gow, 150.
• Grey Douglas, 149.
• Hamilton, 151.
• Hay, 146.
• Keith, 150.
• MacArthur, 150.
• Macintosh, 150.
• MacKinnon, 154.
• MacLean, 157.
• MacLeod, 150.
• MacQueen, 150.
• Mathieson, 150.
• Maxwell, 151.
• Menzies, 146.
• Montgomery, 147.
• Ross, 150.
• Royal Stuart, 157.
• Skene, 150.
• Wallace, 150.
• Tartans. See List of Figs., page viii.
• examples in the colouring of, 145.
• two-colour, 146.
• three-colour, 150.
• four-colour, 153.
• five, six, and multi-colour, 157.
• types of, 146.
• Temperature of colours, 17.
• Tertiary colours, 16.
• Textile colourist, qualifications of, 21.
• Three-and-three colouring, effects in, 170.
• odd thread colouring, arrangement of, 175.
• shade patterns, 179.
• Tinted contrasts, 51, 53.
• Tints of blue, 30.
• of colours, 25.
• of green, 38.
• of orange, 39.
• Toned contrasts, 51, 53.
• Tones of colours, 25.
• Treatment of colour in textiles, 4.
• Twist yarn mixtures, 89.
• yarns, uses of blue in, 33.
• Two-and-two twill colour effects (warp 1-and-1), 99.
• Two-shade compounds (in which white or black is one shade), 75.
• (in which black is used), 78.
• (in which white is used), 76.
• Types of woven colourings, 93.
• Utility of colour in loom productions, 3.
• of prismatic experiments, 11.
• Velvets, compound in structure, 327.
• figured, 331.
• weaving, operation of, 330.
• origin of, 326.
• Vestings, 340.
• cotton quiltings, 324.
• four-cover colouring, 344.
• honeycomb, 345.
• two-cover colouring, 343.
• Violet in compounds of coloured lights, 15.
• in prismatic experiments, 10.
• wave frequency of, 9.
• Wallace tartan, 150.
• Warp and weft colouring, 352.
• compared, 335.
• colouring and figured textiles, 97.
• (extra colouring) spotted, 284.
• colourings, figured effects obtained by, 97.
• figured fabrics coloured in the, 321.
• plushes, 328.
• (single-thread) spotting, 279.
• striping in figured designs, 264.
• Wave frequency of spectral colours, 9.
• Weave and colour compounds compared, 197.
• (single) colourings, 94.
• (backed and double) combinations, colour applied to, 96.
• compounds, 244.
• composed of two, 6, 7, 8, or 9-shaft weaves, 254.
• examples in colouring of, 245.
• mixtures, 91.
• Weaves (compound), application of fancy yarns to, 291.
• figuring in, 312.
• (double) styles of colour effects in, 295.
• fancy, 1-and-l and 2-and-2 colourings in, 168.
• (ordinary) spotted effects in, 290.
• Weft colouring, 336.
• figured effects obtained by, 96.
• compound reversibles, 349.
• (extra) styles, 338.
• (ground) used for figuring, 337.
• (single-pick) spotting, 281.
• Weftings, cross, 190.
• White and bright colour contrasts, 55.
• use of in mixtures, 76, 77.
• Wool and pigment blends compared, 71.
• Woollen, fancy weaves and colouring in, 226.
• irregular weave compounds in, 268.
• Woven design, elements of, 1.
• (ornamental) elements of, 320.
• effects and simple colourings in, 197.
• Yarns (fancy) with compound weaves, 291.
• gimp and knop twists, 289.
• marl, 90.
• composition of, 90.
• twist-yarn mixtures, 89.
• used for spotting, 288.
• Yellow, attributes of, 34.
• derivatives of, 36.
• in woven design, 35.

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