To work the Doily. Finish the edge with the blanket stitch. See "Blanket Stitch," page 73. Work the lines of the design with the Kensington Outline Stitch.
Exercise No. 17—French Seam.
Materials: Third section of the Seam Sampler.
Fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Follow the directions for the French Seam.
Exercise No. 18—A Pair of Miniature Pillow Cases.[16]
Materials: Two pieces bleached muslin 7½" warp, 8½" woof; white thread No. 50; needle No. 7.
In a pillow case the warp threads should run lengthwise of the pillow. Crease a quarter-inch fold across one end and on both sides. Fold with the warp through the center so that the seam just turned comes on the inside, baste the folded edges together on the right side. Overhand on the right side, using no knot, but sewing over the end of the thread. Turn a three-quarter inch hem, baste and hem. Trim the seam and overcast.
Exercise No. 19—French Fell.
Materials: Seam Sampler.
Sew Section Three of the Seam Sampler to the others with the French Fell. Follow directions for the French Fell.
Exercise No. 20—Textile Fibers and Fabrics—Silk.
Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," page 90, will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fourth grade subject is silk. Secure if possible the silk cocoon and make a collection of silk fabrics. Language papers on the subject can be illustrated with pictures cut from papers and magazines.
Electives.
[13] A choice may be had between the strawberry and the tomato emery ball.
Tomato Emery Ball—Materials: Unbleached muslin 6" × 3"; red cashmere 6" × 3"; emery powder; red thread No. 50; green luster cotton.
To cut the pattern: Draw a circle one and one-fourth inches in radius and cut on the line.
Cut the two pieces for the lining and the two for the outside of the same size. Place the right sides of the two pieces of cashmere together between the two pieces of lining. Baste all together. Sew with the back stitch one-fourth of an inch from the edge, leaving an opening for turning and filling. Turn in a seam at the opening, fill with powder and close by overhanding the edges together. Flatten as much as possible and make the creases seen in the tomato by tightly drawing the thread of luster cotton from the center around the outside and back to the center, repeating several times. Make a little tuft of the luster cotton in the middle at the top.
[14] The order of the doily and the bag may be reversed, using the doily for the Christmas piece instead of the bag, or the paper box may be substituted. See "Cloth and Cardboard Construction," page 102.
[15] Simple toilet articles in white, such as a handkerchief case, may be substituted for the doily, teachers planning their own designs.
[16] One pillow-case may be omitted and a pillow for the other case made instead. This may be stuffed with crumpled bits of paper. Use unbleached muslin for the pillow.
CHAPTER IV.
Third Year—Fifth Grade.
| EQUIPMENT. |
| Sewing box. |
| Pin cushion—30 pins. |
| Thimble. |
| Needles. |
| Scissors. |
| Thread cards. |
| Practice Piece—Unbleached muslin 9" × 12". |
Order of Exercises.
Prepare Thread Cards—Cardboard 4" × 4" designed and cut for four kinds of thread.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.
Review the divisions of the inch.
Patching Sampler.
Materials: Gingham 8" warp, 13" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
It is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth, that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern, when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together.
Fold the piece of gingham, eight inches by thirteen inches woof, with the warp into three sections, two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof, and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof. Fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches. Cut on the creases. Pin one patch to one of the large pieces, label with the girl's name and put it away for Exercise No. 23.
Exercise No. 21—Hemmed Patch.
Materials: First section of Patching Sampler.
The hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments. The patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched. When matching stripes or plaids always turn on the line where the color changes, never through the middle of a stripe. Ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise.
Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides. Place the patch in the center of the large piece (which we will imagine to be worn) and baste around it, matching the pattern carefully. Do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right. Turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps:
Exercise No. 22—Mitered Corner.
Materials: Paper.
Teach the mitered corner on paper only. Have it done over and over until every pupil understands how it is done, and can do it alone, rapidly and perfectly. Ask pupils to bring paper from home, as almost any kind will do for this practice work. Have it made in hems of several widths. See description of "Miscellaneous" exercises, page 79.
Exercise No. 23—Overhand Patch.
Materials: Second section of the Patching Sampler.
The overhand patch is used on very thin material, such as lawn, dimity or organdy, where strength is not required and where the two thicknesses of cloth around the edge of the hemmed patch would be too noticeable. The pattern should be as carefully matched as in the hemmed patch and equal care given to the corners. A paper pattern will assist beginners.
Fold the large piece of gingham with the four corners together and clip off the point from the center. The following are the successive steps for making the overhand patch:
The two patched pieces are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on each with the warp, matching the pattern, baste together and overhand.
Teach the Overcasting on the Practice Piece and overcast all raw edges on the Patching Sampler.
Exercise No. 24—Basketry—Christmas Piece.[21][22]
This subject has such limitless possibilities and its success or failure rests so entirely with the teacher that it will be necessary for each teacher to prepare herself to teach it and decide upon the style, size and general character of the design of the baskets to be made by her class, allowing the pupils as far as possible to work out their individual tastes.
See chapter on "Basketry," page 114.
Exercise No. 25—Napkin—Damask Hem.[23]
Materials: Damask 8½" × 8½"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
See Description of the Damask Hem, page 70.
Trim the napkin square. Crease a half-inch hem on the four sides. The corners are to be mitered, and this is more easily done by basting the side hems in place, skipping across the corners when basting. Turn out the corners and miter them. Hem the corners with the flat hem and the sides with the damask hem.
Exercise No. 26—Flannel Patch.
Materials: Flannel 6½" × 6½", patch 3" × 3"; sewing silk; needle No. 8.
See description of the Herringbone Stitch, page 77.
Cut from the center of the large piece of flannel a two-inch square. Trim the patch square and place it over this hole. Baste at both edges. Teach the herringbone stitch on the practice piece, and herringbone over the raw edges of the patch. Turn one fold three-eighths of an inch wide on the four sides of the large piece, baste and herringbone stitch the raw edge. Keep the raw edges trimmed.
Exercise No. 27—A Pair of Sleeve Protectors.
Materials: Cotton twill 8½" × 11"; tape 36"; ribbon elastic 4"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector: Cut an oblong eight inches by ten and one-half inches. Fold through the center the long way. Mark the top of the folded edge A, the bottom B, the upper right hand corner C and the lower D. Measure down on the folded edge from A four inches and mark E. Measure down from C four inches and mark F. Measure up from D five inches and mark G. Measure on the line B D three and one fourth inches from B and mark H. Connect G and H with a straight line. With E as the center and E A as the radius draw a quarter of a circle connecting A and F. Cut on the lines H G, and A F.
Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern. Beginning at the center of the bottom and holding the wrong side of the cloth next to you, baste the edge of the sleeve protector to the line running through the middle of the tape. Make a tiny pleat in the tape at each corner so that when doubled over it will round the corners smoothly. Join the ends of the tape by folding back both ends and overhanding them together on the wrong side. Hem the tape down on the right side. Before basting the tape down on the wrong side, fasten the elastic in place on one side of the sleeve protector. The elastic is in two pieces, two inches in length. Place the first piece one inch from the bottom and the second piece three inches above the first. Baste the tape down on the wrong side and hem, leaving the opening for the other end of the elastic, which is fastened in place after the hemming is done. Lay the binding smooth over the elastic and stitch along the edge of the tape, through the elastic, to hold in place.
Exercise No. 28—A Garment Brought from Home to be Mended.
Ask every pupil to bring some article from home, in preference a garment, to be mended. There is no home that cannot furnish a garment that needs repairing. This is a practical application of Exercises 21, 23 or 26, and is a valuable experience for the children.
Exercise No. 29—A Pin Cushion.[24]
Materials: These will be furnished by the pupils.
Pupils and teachers will plan their own designs, adapting them to the material furnished. The cushions may be of any size, shape or kind. Do not have the children incur expense, as small pieces of ribbon, silk or bright bits of many kinds of cloth can be made into attractive cushions. Hardwood sawdust, sifted, makes an excellent filling.
Exercise No. 30—Textile Fibers and Fabrics—Cotton.
Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," page 92, will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fifth grade subject is cotton. Many interesting collections can be made that will be instructive for the children.
Electives.
[21] The round holder and case may be substituted for the basketry, or a blank book with paper cover or the folding envelope case may be made instead. See "Paper, Cloth and Cardboard Construction," page 104.
[22] The pin cushion may be substituted for the basketry and the book cover, or the book bag, or the round holder given for Exercise No. 29.
[23] A book cover or a book bag for carrying books may be substituted for the pin cushion.
A Round Holder and Case.
Materials: Unbleached muslin, 14" × 7"; bleached muslin 15" × 7¾"; strap 18" × 1½"; bias binding 25" × 1"; wadding.
To cut the Circular Pattern: Cut a square of paper eight inches by eight inches and fold it three times. Measure three and five-eighth inches from the point on each folded edge and once between these edges. Draw a curved line connecting these points and cut on the line. The case is cut from this pattern, a circle having a radius of three and five-eighth inches and the holder from a pattern one-fourth of an inch smaller with a radius of three and three-eighth inches.
The Holder: Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces. Turn in one-fourth of an inch around both pieces. Place the wadding between them; pin and baste together. Overhand the folded edges. Quilt the holder in a simple pattern with the running stitch.
The Case: Cut from the bleached muslin two circular pieces. Fold one piece with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Turn an eighth of an inch hem on each of the straight edges just cut, and hem. The pupils who work rapidly could design a simple decoration for the front of the case. This could be traced, or drawn with a hard pencil and worked with a coarse, colored thread in any decorative stitch, before making the case. Place the half circles on the large circle and baste around the edge. This will leave an opening of about half an inch into which the holder will easily slip. Make the strap by which the holder case is hung from the belt, by folding in the edges at the sides and across one end and overhanding together. The raw end of the strap is then fastened at one end of the case-opening, so that it will come under the binding. See description of the Bias, page 79. Teach the cutting and joining of bias pieces, first with paper and then with the cloth. In order to give the pupil this valuable experience cut the binding in three pieces and join them together. Stitch along the edge of the binding where it folds back against the strap. Slip the holder into the case.
A Book Cover.
Materials: Grass linen or Holland 15" woof by 10" warp; white thread No. 60; needles Nos. 8 and 5; luster cotton.
The Design: Start several weeks before the class is ready to make it, arouse an interest, and study designs for book covers. Ask pupils to bring from home books having good designs on the covers. Have them tell why they like certain ones and do not favor others. In a word, educate their tastes in this line before expecting them to originate designs. Do not attempt anything elaborate. Many artistic effects can be obtained by interlacing straight lines and these have the advantage of being easily worked. Paper cutting is an excellent medium for experimenting, if a unit is to be repeated or if curves are desired in the outline. For example, fold an oblong, four and one-half by seven inches, through the center both ways, and cut on a slightly curving line from the folded edges to the corner. Quite a variety of simple, graceful outlines can be made by slightly varying these curves, which, with a simple unit repeated around the center or in each corner makes an effective design. Have the finished pattern before starting the book cover. Trace on the cloth by means of the carbon paper. It will be necessary to crease the cover over the book before putting on the design, so that it may be placed just right.
To Make the Book Cover: Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams. Overcast the raw edges at the top and bottom of the cover and hem with a quarter-inch hem the two ends that fold into the book. The raw-edged hem, finished with the herringbone stitch, could be used in place of the plain hem, if desired. Turn in the top and bottom of the cover so that the book will slip in easily. Overhand that part which folds into the books to the outside, at top and bottom, thus forming the pockets into which the covers of the book slip. Do the overhanding on the wrong side and then turn it to the right side.
A Book Bag.
Materials: Galatea, kaiki or burlap 15" woof, 13" warp; two strips for handles 14" warp by 3" woof; thread No. 40; needle No. 7.
The decoration of the bag should be done before sewing up the ends. Very artistic effects can be obtained in the applique. See directions for the design of the book cover, page 37.
Cut a three-inch strip from the length of the piece for the end pieces. Divide this into two pieces seven and one-half by three inches. Find the middle of one end of both end pieces and notch them. Fold the large piece with the warp through the center and notch at both ends of the fold. Turn in a quarter of an inch around the large piece and baste. Turn in a quarter of an inch across the notched end and sides of the end pieces. Place the notch at the end of one side piece to one in the large piece, right sides together, and pin in place. Overhand on the wrong side the two together across the end and up both sides. Put in the other end piece in the same way. Trim the end pieces even with the top of the case. Turn a three-quarter inch hem at the top. Before hemming make the straps for the handles by turning in and overhanding the edges. Insert both ends of one strap under the hem of the right side of the bag, two inches from the middle or four inches apart and the other strap on the left side. Hem, and fasten the handles to the edge of the hem by backstitching.
[24] A cover for a pin cushion affords a good application for the mitered corner. This can be made any size, square or oblong. Ornament with fine feather stitching and the star stitch.
CHAPTER V.
Fourth Year—Sixth Grade.
| Equipment. |
| Sewing box. |
| Pin cushion—30 pins. |
| Thimble. |
| Needles. |
| Scissors. |
| Thread cards. |
| Practice Piece—unbleached muslin 9" × 12". |
Order of Exercises.
Prepare Thread Cards—Cardboard 4" × 4"—designed and cut for four kinds of thread.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.
Teach the yard measure and its divisions.
See note under Exercise No. 35—Buttonholes.
Exercise No. 31—Stocking Darning.
Materials: Stockinet 4" × 4"; cardboard 3" × 3"; darning cotton; darning needle; a pair of worn stockings.
See description of Stocking Darning, page 67.
Pupils will furnish their own cardboard and have it cut and ready for the lesson, also a pair of worn stockings.
The cardboard is a substitute for the darning ball. Do not stretch the cloth too tightly over the card, nor put in a needless number of stitches at the back to hold it on, five or six being sufficient to hold it temporarily in place. The darning cotton winds from the spool in several strands loosely twisted together. Separate and use two, three or more strands, depending upon the texture of the cloth to be darned. Take care not to split the threads when weaving across them, and also avoid putting the threads so far apart that holes are left between them. In fact, try to have pupils understand that they are supplying a piece of cloth that has been worn away, and that when finished should match as nearly as possible in color and texture the cloth that is being repaired. Stockinet, like stockings, is a knitted, not a woven fabric, and as every stitch is drawn through the one below it, it is very necessary that the loops be caught before they ravel back. Prepare the hole for darning by whipping the edge with fine thread, catching up all the severed loops. Either a round or an oblong hole may be cut in the stockinet, the round hole being three-fourths of an inch across, and the oblong three-fourths of an inch by one inch.
Follow the exercise in stockinet darning, in which the principles of darning have been taught, with the darning of a pair of worn stockings that the pupils have brought from home. Every child in the class must be given this practical and useful experience. If there is difficulty in securing these stockings, members of the class or the teacher can readily supply the deficiency.
Exercise No. 32—Placket Sampler—A Placket.
Materials: Calico 12" woof, 14" warp; facings and bands 58" × 2"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
See description of Plackets, page 81.
Upon this sampler is taught the placket, the gusset, the nightgown opening and two different methods of putting on bands, and in addition a review of the French seam and the French fell. It is made in sections which are combined later. These lessons are interspersed with other exercises that the pupils may not become tired of this piece. Teach the placket and the nightgown opening first on paper. It will save time and trouble in the end. Fold the large piece of calico across the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Fold one of these pieces with the warp, through the center and cut. The first exercise of the "Placket Sampler" is done on one of these quarters. As these sections are to be sewed together later each girl must have her own pieces. To avoid the possibility of their being lost or soiled, those not in use should be wrapped in paper, labeled and collected by the teacher and kept until ready for Exercise No. 34.
First section of the Placket Sampler: Fold the piece of calico with the warp, through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for making Placket B. Facing eleven inches by two inches.
Exercise No. 33—An Apron—The Christmas Piece.[28][31]
Materials: Pupils will select and furnish their own materials for an apron. This may be of any style or kind, and will afford an excellent opportunity for carrying out their individual tastes. This may necessitate the teaching of the principles of bands which can be done with the practice piece. See description of Bands, page 79.
Exercise No. 34—Placket Sampler—The Gusset.[29]
Second section of the Placket Sampler.
Materials: The second quarter of the large piece of calico; a two-inch square of calico for the gusset.
Fold with the warp through the center, and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for making the gusset. Sew the two sections together with the French fell. Hem the sides with a quarter-inch hem.
Exercise No. 35—Buttonholes.
Materials: Blue Percale 9" woof by 4" warp; scraps of calico for practice pieces; white thread No. 40 and No. 80; needles No. 7 and No. 8.
Remember the old adage Practice Makes Perfect.
See description of the Buttonhole, page 63.
Note: Scraps and odd pieces of calico can be used for the practice work on buttonholes. As the buttonhole requires a great deal of practice it is well to keep these pieces in the sewing box and work at it at odd times during the progress of the years' work. Encourage the girls, too, to practice on the buttonhole for home work. In this way they will gradually acquire the skill which only comes with practice. Fold the cloth, wrong side out, with the woof and through the center, and baste the edges together. Begin with the blind buttonhole.
The buttonhole model is intended to show how much skill has been acquired. Fold the percale through the center, with the woof, and baste the edges together. Make the buttonholes three-fourths of an inch long and one inch apart.
Exercise No. 36—Placket Sampler—The Shirt Sleeve or Nightgown Opening.
Materials: Half of the large piece of calico; facing 18" × 2".
Fold with the warp through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for the Nightgown Opening. Hem the side of the narrower part with a quarter-inch hem.
Exercise No. 37—A Hemstitched Collar.[29][30]
Materials: Butcher's linen, collar 15½" warp by 3" woof, India linen band 15½" warp by 1½" woof; practice piece 6" warp by 4" woof; white thread No. 80; needle No. 8.
Measure the neck and decide upon the length of collar and width of hem before trimming.
See directions for Hemstitching, page 76.
Put the collar band on the collar. The collars may be still further ornamented with fine feather stitching, the star stitch or French knots.
Exercise No. 38—Placket Sampler—Bands—Hemmed and Overhanded.
See description of Bands and Gathering, pages 68 and 79.
To avoid soiling the cloth put the bands on before seaming the halves of the Placket Sampler together. This can be done with the exception of the band on the long side of the nightgown opening, which will have to be done after this side is basted to the other section, cut off and hemmed, and will therefore be the last thing to be done on the Sampler. Put the hemmed bands on the side having the placket and the gusset, and the overhand bands on the side of the nightgown opening.
Length of bands: On the first half, short bands cut two inches, one and one-half inches finished; long band cut four inches, three and one-half inches finished; on the last half, bands cut three and three quarters inches, three and one-quarter inches finished.
Sew the two sections of the Sampler together with the French seam. The section having the two openings is a little narrower than the other. Baste the two sections together, basting the little pleats at the end of the placket and the nightgown opening, and sew them into the seam. Do not cut off the long side until basted nearly across, then cut off and hem the side. Finish with the last band.
Exercise No. 39—An Underskirt.
Materials: Pupils will furnish their own material for an underskirt for themselves. The patterns which their mothers use can be secured from the home, or one pattern used by all the members of the class. These skirts may be made plain or trimmed with tucked ruffles of cloth or with embroidery, depending upon the wishes of the mothers, the skill and taste of the individuals and the material furnished. Should there be difficulty in securing material for the garment, a small model on the half-inch scale or one of the electives can be substituted. Insist that the work be well done, neatly finished and first class throughout. Use sewing machines when available.
Points to emphasize in the making of a skirt: