For the first coloured border, which immediately surrounds the centre square, take a coloured thread and make 2 chain stitches and upon these the common Tunisian stitch, fig. 444. Increase to the right in every row by one stitch, to the number of 6 = then put the needle into the first stitch on one side of the square, turn the thread round and draw it through. Here you must be careful to observe, in the first instance, that the second part which is now to be joined to the square, should always remain on the left side of the square and secondly, that the thread with which you join the two parts together, should lie to the left and be drawn through, from the wrong side to the right. Having now got 7 Tunisian stitches on the needle, make 18 double rows, and join the last stitch of each row to a stitch of the square.
When these rows are finished, you proceed to decrease on the right till you have only 2 stitches left; and then again to increase as at the beginning of the stripe. At each increase, after each double row you must pass the thread through the corresponding stitch opposite of the same row. When you have again got 7 stitches on the needle, join them as before to the square. Work round the 4 sides of the square in this manner and when you come to the last decrease, join the stitches to those of the first increase, and fasten off. The next stripes are to be worked in the same way; they may be made either wider or narrower, plain, or ornamented with a cross stitch pattern which you work upon them.
Pattern of counterpane worked in stripes (fig. 477).—This is intended for a child’s coverlet and is worked in pale blue, Bleu-Indigo 334, and white; the stripes and the lace border, in white, the setting, partly in white, partly in blue.
For the first stripe, make a foundation chain of 26 stitches; then counting back, draw the needle through the 6th and 7th chain stitches, drawing up all the three loops together = 2 chain, then put the needle again through 2 chain stitches, draw up the 3 loops together = 2 chain and so on.
Coming back, make the loop of the first stitch and that of the second on the chain stitches of the preceding row = begin every row with 3 chain, which form picots along the edge of the stripe; when the stripes are finished, take a blue thread and make 1 plain stitch on each picot and 3 chain.
This blue row is followed by a white one, worked in cluster stitch, fig. 426, with 2 chain stitches between every 2 clusters.
Then follows another blue row of one plain stitch on each chain stitch of the previous row. The second blue row consists entirely of plain stitches worked along the long sides of the stripes, which are joined together afterwards, but not along the short sides until the counterpane is finished; then the stitches should border all the 4 sides. The second stripe, which should be of the same width as the first, is worked in Tunisian crochet; for the edge make one row of plain stitches in blue, one of cluster stitches in white, and then again a row of plain in blue.
Join the stripes together on the wrong side with plain stitches, taking up one loop on the right and one on the left, alternately.
When you have joined the stripes, make the outer border, which consists of 7 straight rows and a scalloped lace edging.
1st row—in blue: 3 chain and 1 plain on each picot, 1 plain, and so on, down the long sides of the stripes = along the short sides, the side of the chain stitches or that of the previous row: 1 plain, 3 chain, miss 2, 1 plain.
2nd row—in white or unbleached: 1 cluster stitch, fig. 426, on each picot formed by the 3 chain stitches of the 1st row; on the corner picots, you must make 3 cluster stitches.
3rd, 4th, 5th rows—in blue: similar to the first. Increase at the corners by making: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 plain on the same stitch.
6th row—in white or unbleached: similar to the 2nd row.
7th row—in blue: 1 treble on each of the stitches of the previous row.
Lace edging.—The scallops extend over 22 stitches of the previous row and on that account it is better to make the corners first, to count the stitches both ways so as to distribute the stitches that are left over, between the scallops.
Corner scallop.—Fasten on the thread to the left of the second of the stitches that were added to make the turn, make 6 chain, 1 single on the 4th treble to the right = 1 single on the next treble = turn the work = * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain, repeat 7 times from *, in all therefore 8 trebles = after the 8th treble: 2 chain, miss 1 treble, 1 single on the 2 next trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch between each treble, in all 9 cluster stitches, then 2 chain, miss 2 trebles, 1 single stitch on the next 2 trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch over the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th pairs of chain stitches in the preceding row, and 2 cluster stitches and 2 chain over the 5th, 6th and 7th chain stitches; over the other chain stitches again: 1 cluster stitch; then 2 chain, miss 2 trebles, join to the 3rd treble = fasten off.
For the scallops on the right side, divide the stitches between the corner scallops into equal portions. Supposing that they are divisible by 22, count 9 stitches to the right, fasten on the thread at the 9th; * 7 chain, miss 2 trebles of the row beneath, 1 plain on the 3rd, 1 single stitch on the next = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 treble on the 7 chain, repeat 5 times from * and finish with 2 chain, 1 single on the 2nd lower treble, 1 single on the next treble = turn the work = 2 chain and 1 cluster stitch between each treble of the preceding row, 2 cluster stitches between the 3rd and 2nd trebles = after the 8th stitch: 2 chain, miss 1 treble, 1 single on each of the 2 next stitches = repeat 3 times over 2 chain stitches of the previous row: 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch = on the 4th, 5th and 6th chain stitches: 2 cluster and 2 chain; on the 3 last chain the same stitches as on the 3 first = then 1 single over each of the next 18 and repeat from *.
The final row consists of open picots, formed of 5 chain stitches and 1 plain, between each cluster stitch; after the last of these stitches and in the indent of the scallops on the straight line, only 2 chain stitches and 1 plain on the 3rd stitch.
Pattern in squares for counterpanes (fig. 478).—This pattern may be worked in the same stitch as the previous one, either in Tunisian crochet or in any other of the stitches already described.
Make a foundation chain of 18 stitches on which you work 10 rows to and fro in the dark colour. The 11th and following rows up to the 21st are worked in the light colour, then take up the dark colour again. Each stripe should be 3 squares long.
The 2nd stripe is begun in the light colour, and the stitches, made at the beginning of each row, are joined to those of the first stripe, as the stitches of the 3rd are to those of the 2nd and so on.
When you have made sufficient big squares, each consisting of 9 small ones, border them with seven rows of plain stitches, worked to and fro.
The 4 squares that form the corners are only to be bordered in this manner on two sides; the squares along the straight edges, on 3 sides, and only those that are intended for the centre of the counterpane, on all 4 sides. The separate parts are then either sewn or crocheted together on the wrong side. The dark squares are ornamented with small stars worked in the light colour, the light ones with scallops in the dark colour.
For the small stars—4 chain, close the ring; 2 plain on each stitch of the chain; 8 plain in all = after the 8th stitch: 8 chain, 1 plain on the 1st plain of the 8 plain stitches. Repeat the 8 chain 7 times and fasten off, then sew the star on in the centre of the dark square, taking care to spread out the little points formed of chain stitches at regular distances from each other. The scallops are worked from left to right; fasten the thread on at the point where 4 squares touch, then make a chain of 18 stitches and secure it at the opposite point. On the chain stitches: 6 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain = fasten off.
Repeat the same scallop over the second half of the square; when you come to the 2nd picot of the first scallop join the two picots. When both scallops are completed, fasten them on to the foundation by a few stitches on the wrong side.
The outside border of the counterpane is made separately, and is worked inwards from without and from left to right.
1st row—begin with the dark colour and make * 10 chain stitches, drop the loop, put the needle into the 1st of the 10 chain, take up the loop and draw it through the stitch; 2 chain and on the 10 stitches: 6 trebles quite close together. Repeat from * and go on repeating the sequence until the lace is long enough to trim the counterpane handsomely.
2nd row—in the light colour and similar to the 1st = only that in joining the chain stitches together, you make the single stitch on the chain stitches of the 1st row.
3rd row—in the dark colour and similar to the 2nd.
4th, 5th and 6th rows—in the light colour and from right to left: 7 chain, 2 plain on each loop of chain stitches of the previous row.
7th row—in the light colour and from left to right: * 2 plain on the treble of the lace, 11 chain, 2 plain on the next loop of chain stitches = these 2 stitches are made on the wrong side of the work = drop the loop, turn the work to the right, 3 plain on the last 3 chain, 8 chain **, and repeat always from * to **.
One row of plain made on each chain stitch and a 2nd row of trebles on the plain stitches completes the lace edging, which is afterwards sewn on to the counterpane.
Counterpane with fringed border (fig. 479).—This pattern requires three colours; we suggest the following as making a very effective combination: Rouge-Turc 321, Bleu-Indigo 311 and white.
The stripes, one red, the other blue, may be worked in any stitch. They are edged with 8 plain stitches of 3 different lengths worked in red. * The first stitch passes only under the loops of the stitches; the 2nd over 2 stitches; the 3rd over 1, the 4th inwards, over 3. Repeat from *.
These stitches must be worked parallel to each other along the two edges that are to be joined together.
The stripes are fastened together on the wrong side by single or plain stitches.
The outside edge consists of 15 rows: 1st row—in red: 1 row of plain stitches on the right side of the work.
2nd row—in red, and on the wrong side of the work: plain stitches.
3rd and 4th rows—in red, and on the right side of the work: plain stitches.
5th row—in dark blue and on the right side: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 plain of the row beneath, 1 treble and so on.
6th row—in white, and similar to the 5th.
7th row—in blue, and similar to the 5th.
8th row—in red: 1 plain on each stitch of the preceding row.
9th row—in red and on the wrong side: 1 plain on each stitch of the preceding row.
10th and 11th rows—in red: and both on the right side, 2 rows of plain stitches.
12th row—in white: 5 chain, miss 3, 1 plain on the 4th stitch.
13th row—in dark blue and similar to the 12th.
14th row—in white: * 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the blue row; 10 chain, drop the loop, lay the chain stitches from left to right, put the needle into the 3rd chain stitch, counting from the beginning, take up the loop and draw it through the 3rd chain stitch, 2 chain and repeat from *.
15th row—in white: 1 plain on the picot formed by the chain stitches; 5 chain, 1 plain.
Into this last row you draw clusters of lengths of red cotton to form the fringe, and knot them together with blue, or if you prefer it, you may finish off the coverlet with a hairpin fringe.
Counterpane composed of squares and olive shaped figures (fig. 480).—There are many who shrink from undertaking a large piece of work because it becomes inconvenient to handle and carry about. The counterpane here represented has the advantage of being made up of a number of quite little pieces, which are worked separately and joined together afterwards.
Two colours, which can be clearly distinguished from each other in the engraving, should be chosen from among the various combinations suggested; one of them should be very light, say, cream or white for the olive shaped figures and squares, and the other of some soft shade only darker, for the connecting rows and the knotted fringe, described in the chapter on Macramé.
The olive shaped figures begin with 9 chain stitches, on which you make 8 plain stitches and on the 9th: 3 plain for the corner.
On the second side of the chain: 8 plain and 3 besides on the corner stitch, and so on for 3 rows; in the last row there should be 28 stitches.
These 3 rows are to be considered as one only.
2nd row—3 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch that follows * 1 chain, 1 treble and repeat 11 times from *; 1 chain, 3 trebles with 1 chain between them on the corner stitch, ** 1 chain, 1 treble, repeat 12 times from **.
On the last stitch at the corner, again 3 trebles with 1 chain; close the round with 1 single stitch.
3rd row—1 chain, 1 single on the chain stitch that follows the 1st treble of the last row; 3 chain, 1 double treble between the lower trebles, 1 chain and so on, until you have 35 trebles, counting the two sets of 3 trebles at the corner.
4th row—here you can change the colour: 1 plain on each of the stitches of the last row; 3 plain at the corners.
5th row—similar to the 4th.
6th row—2 plain, 1 cluster of 2 double trebles on the same stitch of the 4th row as the 5th stitch of the last row is on; miss 1 plain.
Continue in this manner along the whole row, taking care that the 9th and 22nd cluster come just at the corner.
7th and 8th rows—these two last rows should be worked in the same colour as the inside of the figure.
Be careful always to make the increase at the point; a 9th row in the dark colour may further be added, to connect the figures, by passing the thread from the wrong side to the right, between the 13 last stitches of two of the points of the figures. The space between these olive shaped figures is filled by a pointed square of chain stitches.
In the 1st and following rows you miss 5 stitches at the point where the figures meet, and continue to decrease in this manner until the space is filled up. The fringe is made in the dark colour, either directly on to the plain crochet, or after a few rows of open-work.
Squares for chair-backs (fig. 481).—This is a design for cut-work, out of an old collection by Sibmacher, which we have adapted to crochet. It will be found most effective, worked in any of the given materials; we have worked it with admirable result, both in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15 and Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 150.
1st row—4 chain, close the ring.
2nd row—1 chain, 2 plain on each chain, 8 in all; draw the loop of the last stitch through the 1st chain.
3rd row—6 chain, 1 treble *, 3 chain, 1 treble, repeat 6 times from *. In all, with the 3 chain, 8 trebles.
4th row—4 plain, over each treble of 3 chain.
5th row—6 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the plain stitches beneath, * 3 chain, 1 treble, over the treble beneath, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd stitch of the row beneath. Repeat 6 times from *, then add 3 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd of the 6 chain.
6th row—7 chain, 1 plain over the treble of the last row; repeat the same series 7 times.
7th row—3 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath; 1 treble on each chain stitch, 2 trebles on each plain stitch of the row beneath; in all, 72 trebles, including the 3 chain.
8th row—* 8 chain, 1 plain between the 2 trebles that were added, therefore between the 8th and the 9th = turn the work = make 12 plain on the wrong side = turn the work back to the right side = take up 1 loop of each of the 12 stitches for the Tunisian stitch that is made on 10 rows, and decreasing by one stitch in each row, alternately on the right and left = draw up the 3 last loops together and make, descending on the right side: 1 single stitch on each row of the pyramid you have just made, finish with 1 plain on the stitch that follows the 8 chain. Repeat 7 times from *.
9th row—all along the pyramid: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 plain at the point. Repeat the same number of stitches on the 2nd side, and down the sides of all the pyramids = after the 9th row, fasten off.
10th row—fasten on the thread at a stitch at the point of a pyramid, * 7 chain, 5 overs, join the loop to the 2nd picot on the side of the pyramid where you are working, draw the needle back through 2 overs, make 2 overs more, and put the needle into the middle picot opposite and draw the needle twice through 2 loops, thirdly through 3 and each time after that, through 2 loops = 6 chain, 1 double treble, join to the 3rd over, 7 chain, 1 plain = on the next pyramid 7 chain, 1 septuple treble, join it to the next middle picot = draw the needle thrice through 2 loops, 1 triple treble to join to the middle picot opposite, draw the needle back through the loops, and at the 4th over, through 3 loops, and each time after that, through 2 loops, 7 chain, 1 quadruple treble, join it to the 4th over, 7 chain, 1 triple treble, 7 chain, 1 plain on the next pyramid. Repeat 3 times from *.
11th row—1 chain, 1 plain on each of the stitches of the previous row and 2 plain on those forming the corner; fasten off.
12th row—1 single on the first plain, 5 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd plain and so on to the corner and until you have 14 trebles = on the corner stitch: 2 chain and 1 treble more; then proceed as you did on the first side. There should be 18 trebles and 19 times 2 chain between the corner trebles; all four sides should be alike.
13th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row, not counting the 3 which are to be made at the corner.
14th row—14 single over the preceding stitches *, 1 chain, 24 plain; miss 4 plain of the last row, not counting the 2 increased stitches which must be left empty = after the 24th stitch turn the work, miss 2, 21 plain, passing the needle under the 2 loops of the row beneath = turn the work = 1 chain, 20 plain = turn the work = 19 plain = continue to decrease in the same proportion, until you have 3 stitches left and fasten off. In all the intakes miss the last stitch but one, coming back, and the 1st going, and always begin on the right side with 1 chain.
For the second half of these triangular figures which are worked from right to left, fasten on the thread to the 5th stitch after the increase and make 24 plain = 7 plain should remain between the two triangular figures formed of plain stitches = turn the work = 21 plain, miss the 2 last stitches, 1 plain on the stitch the thread is fastened to = turn the work = miss 1 stitch, 19 plain, 5 overs, put the needle through the 4th of the 7 stitches between, bring it back twice, each time through 2 loops, make 2 overs more, put the needle through the last stitch of the 3rd row opposite, bring it back twice through 2 loops, then once through 3 loops and twice through 2 loops = turn the work = 18 plain and so on, until you have made 10 transverse trebles = fasten off, then repeat the same series of rows on the other sides.
15th row—do not cut off the thread on the 4th side but work backwards: 3 single over the chain, 5 chain * 1 treble on the stitch whence the 5 chain proceeded, 2 chain, 1 treble on the last plain of the first half of the close parts of the pattern; 2 chain, 1 treble in the middle of the first part of the 10th transverse treble; 2 chain, 1 treble on the second half of the preceding treble, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain of the second half of the close parts; 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd and last upper stitch of the close part; 2 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch as the last treble. Then along the edge, 10 trebles, joined by 2 chain, one of which trebles should always be on a row of plain stitches = after the 10th treble: 3 chain, 1 plain on the 5th plain of the 13th row, 3 chain, again 11 trebles connected by 2 chain = after the 11 trebles: 2 chain ** and repeat 3 times from * to **.
16th row—on every 2 chain stitches: 3 plain.
17th row—7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th plain of the last row; repeat 7 times = for the 9th and 10th scallops only: * 5 chain. The plain stitch that follows the 9th scallop should come exactly over the corner stitch of the 13th row = after the 10th scallop: 1 plain; then 13 scallops with 7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th 5 stitch of the row beneath. Repeat twice from * = after the 4th scallop 2 smaller scallops, and up to the end of the row, 5 scallops more of 7 chain each.
18th row—make 7 plain over 7 chain, 5 chain, drop the treble, bring the needle back with the loop through the 3rd plain = on the 5 chain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain = on the 7 remaining stitches: 2 plain—on the 9th scallop of 5 chain, only: 5 plain = on the 10th scallop of 5 chain, only: 3 plain = then 7 chain, bring them back and join them to the 3rd plain of the 9th scallop and finish the picot.
When these squares are made use of in any number and have to be joined together, you must join 13 picots and leave the 14th free. The four empty picots in the centre are connected by a small star.
Crochet star (fig. 482).—This is one of the most graceful and delicate crochet patterns we know. For the purpose of reproduction here, we have had it worked in all the different sizes of D.M.C cotton but it looks best in a fine material; in Fil à dentelle No. 150, it can bear comparison with the finest needle-made lace.
1st row—6 chain, close the ring.
2nd row—9 chain, 1 double treble, * 4 chain, 1 double treble; repeat 6 times from * = after the 7th treble: 4 chain, 1 single on the 5th of the 9 chain.
3rd row—1 chain, 4 plain, * 1 picot, 4 plain; repeat 7 times from * = carry the thread to the last stitch through the 1st plain.
4th row—12 chain, 1 treble on the stitch over the treble beneath, * 9 chain, 1 treble; repeat 6 times from * = after the 7th treble and the 9 chain: 1 single on the 3rd of the 12 chain.
5th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each stitch of the row beneath; including the 3 chain, 80 trebles in the whole circumference = after the last treble: 1 single on the 3 chain.
6th row—11 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 2nd treble of the last row; 4 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 3rd treble and so on, in all 32 trebles including the 7 chain.
7th row—1 chain, 5 plain on 4 chain.
8th row—3 plain on the 3 first chain, * 16 chain, miss 1, ** 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ long, 2 double trebles, 1 triple treble, 1 treble 3½ trebles long, 1 quadruple-treble ***, 3 chain, miss 4 plain of the 7th row, 5 plain, 16 chain, join them, counting upwards from below, to the 5th treble of the first pyramid = on 7 chain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain; join the last loop of the last plain and the loop of the 7th chain; 8 chain. Repeat from ** to *** = on the middle of the last quadruple treble: 1 double treble towards the bottom, finish the treble, 3 chain, miss 4, 5 plain ****. Repeat 7 times from * to ****.
Coming back to the 1st point make along it: 8 single stitches, then 7 chain, join them to the 5th treble of the 16th point = over the chain: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain and finish with 9 single to carry the thread to the top of the point.
9th row—1 chain, 1 plain, * 15 chain, 1 plain at the top of the point and repeat 15 times from *.
10th row—3 chain; 1 treble on each stitch of the 9th row; 256 trebles in all, including the 3 chain.
11th row—The star is bordered by small and large scallops, surmounted by points similar to those inside.
You begin by the small scallop and make on the 10th row: 5 single, * 8 chain, bring them back and join them to the 1st of the 5 single; 1 plain, 8 chain, miss 4 trebles, join them to the 5th; 14 plain on the 8 chain, 6 plain on the first 8 chain = turn the work = 5 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch between two scallops; 5 chain, 1 plain on the 7th plain of the 1st scallop; 2 plain in the 5th chain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain, miss 1, and make on the following ones: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the 5 chain; 8 plain on the 8 chain.
To pass to the large scallop make: 16 single, 8 chain, bring them back, 1 plain on the 5th single, 8 chain, bring them back again to the 5th = turn the work = on the second set of 8 chain: 6 plain, 1 picot, 9 plain = on the first 8: 6 plain, then 8 chain, bring them back and join them to the 4th plain behind the picot of the finished scallop = on the 8 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = on the remaining chain below: 3 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain; add 4 single on the trebles and pass to the outer scallop = 18 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd of the 5 plain of the small upper scallop; 18 chain, 1 plain on the 4th of the 16 single = turn the work = 25 plain on the last chain stitches, and 25 on the first; 1 single on the 3rd single = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding 50 plain stitches; join the last to the under row with a single stitch = turn the work = 10 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain, miss 1, 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long, 1 triple treble, 1 picot, 2 chain and join them to the 6th plain stitch, counting from the middle.
Then 4 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 10 plain, 11 single on the trebles. Repeat 7 times from *.
Star with little squares (fig. 483).—Begin with 4 chain stitches, close the ring.
1st row—5 chain, * 1 treble, 2 chain. Repeat 6 times from *, to number altogether 8 trebles including the 5 chain; 1 single on the 3rd chain.
2nd row—6 chain, * 1 triple treble on the 1st chain stitch, 2 chain. Repeat 23 times from * and join to the 4th chain.
3rd row—6 chain, * 1 double treble on the treble beneath, 3 chain. Repeat from * through the row; join to the 4th chain.
4th row—1 plain on the treble = on the 3 chain: 5 plain, 1 plain on the treble; work 5 times to and fro over these stitches, put the needle through the 2 threads of the last stitch = after the 5th row: 10 chain, then 5 plain on the 3 next chain.
In turning the work and going from the 2nd to the 3rd, from the 4th to the 5th row, carry the thread behind the chain stitches, so that they may blend with the plain stitches; make in all 12 little squares with 11 spaces between; after the 12th, square: 5 chain, 1 single on the 5th row of the first square.
5th row—on each of the 6 plain of the 1st square: 1 single = on the 7th: 1 plain = 7 plain on the 5 chain = 1 plain on the 1st stitch of the 2nd square = 6 rows of plain, 14 chain, 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the next square = then make 6 rows of plain and wind the thread round the chain stitches.
6th row—1 single on every stitch of the last square, 1 plain on the last stitch above the 7 chain = on the 7 chain: 9 plain, 1 plain on the 1st stitch of the next square below = 9 rows to and fro.
7th row—after the 12th square: 9 chain, 1 single on the 1st plain, * 14 chain, 1 plain on the last plain = on the 9 chain: ** 1 chain, 1 plain, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 double trebles 2½ trebles long ***, 5 triple trebles ****. Repeat from *** to **, then proceed from * to ****.
8th row—19 plain over the 14 chain, 1 single on each treble; stop them at the 12th square and at the 3rd triple treble.
9th row—12 chain, 1 plain on the 10th of the 19 plain; 12 chain, 1 plain on the triple treble, and proceed in the same way throughout the whole length of the row.
10th row—on the first 12 chain stitches: * 5 plain, 1 picot, 12 plain = on the second 12 chain: 7 plain, 10 chain, bring them back to the 5th of the 12 plain of the first scallop = on the 10 chain: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, = on the 12 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain. Repeat 12 times from *.
Crochet collar (fig. 484).—We have avoided as far as possible describing articles in this book that are subject to the changes of fashion, the present collar composed of squares, stars, lozenge-shaped figures and a lace edge, is of a shape that will never be out of date. Fine and delicate work like this can only be executed in a very fine material, and we recommend unbleached thread as being more effective than white. The soft tone and the gloss of unbleached thread give the work an antique look, unobtainable in a white material. Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 120 is the best for the purpose.
Begin with the straight-edged figures, and then make the connecting pieces between. The four squares with half stars at both ends of the collar and on the right and left of the centre square, have their four sides all alike, whereas the 3 figures within the scalloped edge are rather narrower on the outer than on the inner side where they join to the foundation.
Inner squares: 1st row—4 chain, close the ring; 5 chain, * 1 treble on the ring, 2 chain; repeat 6 times from * and fasten the thread to the 3rd chain stitch.
2nd row—1 chain, 3 plain over 2 chain; 1 plain over each treble.
3rd row—8 chain, * 1 treble on each treble of the 1st row, 6 chain. Repeat 6 times from * = 8 trebles in all, including the first chain stitches.
4th row—* 10 chain; returning over the chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 4 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, join to the 1st chain stitch = on the 6 chain of the 3rd row: ** 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 3 double trebles, 1 treble, 1 half treble, 1 plain ***. Repeat once more from ** to ***, then 3 times from * to *** = along the first leaf to the 10th stitch: 10 single.
5th row—starting from the point: * 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the 5th stitch of the small scallop of the 4th row: 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the next scallop, 7 chain, 1 plain on the 10th stitch of the 2nd leaf. Repeat 3 times from *.
6th row—1 chain, * 3 plain on the stitch that forms the point of the leaf; 1 plain on each chain stitch and each treble of the last row = 16 stitches in all, up to the 2nd treble = turn the work = coming back: 1 chain, 1 double treble on the 4th plain, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, miss 3 plain, join to the 4th plain = turn the work = make on each chain stitch, 2 plain and on each treble 1 plain and 1 picot over the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th treble; 8 plain **. Repeat 3 times from * to **.
7th row—1 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the 3 stitches at the point, * 9 chain, 1 double treble between the two first picots of the semicircle formed in the last row; 8 chain, 1 triple treble on the 3rd treble of the semicircle, 8 chain, 1 double treble between the 3rd and 4th picots of the semicircle, 9 chain, 1 plain on the stitch at the corner.
8th row—19 single on the chain stitches of the 7th row, 1 chain, 3 plain on the corner stitch, 24 plain on the chain stitches and trebles = turn the work = coming back: 2 chain, 1 double treble on the 20th plain; on the same stitch add: 2 double trebles with 2 chain; finish with: 2 chain, join them to the 5th plain = turn the work = on the chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on the treble. Repeat this series 4 times = add: 4 plain on the chain stitches of the 7th row = turn the work = 5 chain, 1 double treble on the 1st treble of the small semicircle; then again 3 times, 3 chain, and twice 1 double treble on each of the trebles beneath = after the last 5 chain: join to the 4th plain.
The points in this row are made with: * 1 plain on the chain stitches, 8 chain, miss 1 stitch = coming back: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 3 double trebles, 1 plain on the 5 chain stitches. The 2nd point must be placed one half of it, before, and the other half behind the picot; make altogether 7 points = after the 7th: 8 plain on the chain stitches of the 7th row = then work backwards, without however turning the work: 7 chain, 1 chain on the stitch at the top of the point and repeat 7 times from * = after the 8th set of 7 chain stitches: 1 chain; 1 plain on the 9th plain, bringing the thread forwards from the right side to the wrong = 2 chain; take the thread back to the 3rd plain from the wrong side to the right = 1 treble on each chain stitch, 1 picot above each point, add 4 trebles and 14 chain, join them to the 4th treble that comes after the 1st picot.
On the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 4 trebles to the next picot, 1 picot, 4 trebles; 14 plain, join them to the treble nearest the 1st scallop and so on = make 7 scallops in all; after the 7th add 2 trebles on the 2 chain stitches = after the 2nd treble make 2 plain, followed by the 3 stitches at the corner = in the next scallop, you fasten by 1 single, the 1st picot of the 1st scallop to the 3rd picot of the last scallop. When you have finished the four sides of the figure above-described, fasten off your thread.
The edging of these squares should be begun on the narrower of the inner sides and at the 3rd little scallop: * 1 plain on the middle picot of the 3rd little scallop, 7 chain, 1 double treble on the 1st picot of the 4th scallop; 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the 2nd picot of the same scallop, 6 chain, 1 double treble on the 3rd picot of the same scallop, 6 chain, 1 plain on the middle picot of the 5th scallop; 10 chain, 1 treble on the middle picot of the 6th scallop, 11 chain **, 1 quadruple treble on the middle picot of the 7th and 1 quadruple treble on the middle picot of the 1st scallop following and draw the last loops of the 2 trebles up together. Repeat once from * to **. Carry the trebles all round the figure on the picots just referred to.
For the second half of the edging which becomes a little wider: *** 10 chain, 1 treble on the 6th scallop, 11 chain, 2 quadruple trebles, the last loops of which you join to the middle picots of the 7th and 1st scallop; 11 chain, 1 treble in the next scallop; 10 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop; 7 chain, 1 treble 2½ long, 8 chain, 1 treble 3½ long, 8 chain; 1 double treble, 8 chain, 1 plain, 12 chain, 1 treble, 14 chain, **** 2 quadruple trebles, the last loops of which are joined together. Repeat from **** to ***, that is the reverse way = finally add 1 more whole row of plain and 3 plain stitches at the corners = on the wider side you should have 99 stitches, not counting the increases at the corner.
To make the same figure, forming a part of the large outside scallops, repeat the same rows you have in the inner square up to the 7th row, the first half of which you make exactly the same as before. In the second half of the row of chain there should be 1 chain stitch less in each intervening space than there were in the first half.
8th row—make the first half of this row like the 8th row of the inner square = over the 2nd half, one quarter of which is 4 chain stitches narrower, the little wheels are made like the others with 7 picots. The number of chain stitches and the trebles of the setting are also the same, but instead of 7 points you have to make 5 and over these, 5 small scallops instead of 7.
The setting, towards the top is made exactly in the same manner as the wide part of the upper square, that is, as from the 3rd scallop of the first semicircle to the 5th scallop of the 2nd. From this point, the series of stitches changes, so as to form a rounded edge: * 7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th scallop; 15 chain, 2 triple trebles joined by the last loops to the 7th and 1st scallop; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the 5 scallops; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd scallop; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 4th scallop, 15 chain **, 2 triple trebles joined by the last loops in the 5th and 1st scallop. Repeat once again from ** to * = add 1 row of plain on each stitch of the preceding row; 3 plain on the two top corner stitches. You will thus have 3 figures with a rounded edge on one side.
The second kind of square consists of 8 leaves inside and is begun in the same way by 6 chain formed into a ring.
1st row—5 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, * 1 treble, 2 chain. Repeat 6 times from * and join to the 3rd of the 5 chain.
2nd row—1 chain, 3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain on each treble.
3rd row—9 chain, * miss 1 stitch = coming back: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble, 1 treble over the treble of the 2nd row; 7 chain. Repeat 7 times from * = after the 8th point: 7 single along the 1st.
4th row—* 1 plain on the stitch you missed at the point, 5 chain, 1 triple treble on the treble of the 3rd row, 5 chain. Repeat 7 times from *.
5th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each stitch of the 4th row; join to the 3rd of the 3 chain.
6th row—10 chain, 1 plain on the treble over the triple treble of the 4th row: 10 chain, 1 plain on the treble above the little point.
7th row—15 plain on the 10 chain = on the 3rd scallop only: * 7 plain, 10 chain, come back to the second scallop, bring the thread back from the wrong side to the right between the 7th and 8th plain stitches, 15 plain on the 3rd scallop, 8 plain on the next scallop, 15 plain and repeat 6 times from *.
When the 16th scallop is finished, pass to the point of the 1st scallop by means of 7 single, then add the 10 chain to pass to the 8th scallop above; when that is finished, fasten off, and fasten on again to one of the 8 scallops.
8th row—* 21 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long, 1 triple treble, 1 treble 3½ trebles long, 1 quadruple treble, 1 treble 4½ trebles long, 1 quintuple treble. After passing through the 3rd loop, make 1 quadruple treble, between the 2 plain scallops; then finish the quintuple treble, 7 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd scallop and repeat 7 times from *.
9th row—* 7 plain on the 7 chain; 1 plain on each stitch of the pyramid, 3 plain on the stitch at the point; 4 plain on the 7 chain on the opposite side = turn the work = ** 1 chain, miss 1 plain, 1 treble on the 2nd stitch = after the 5th treble, leave out no more stitches between the trebles ***; place the 8th, 9th and 10th trebles on the 2nd of the increased stitches. Repeat on the opposite side from *** to ** and join to the 4th of the plain stitches = make 17 trebles in all, then one plain over each chain, 1 plain on each treble and 1 picot after every 3rd plain = after the 4th and up to the 8th picot, leave only 2 plain between: 11 picots in all = in conclusion: 3 plain more on the 7 chain and repeat the whole 7 times from *.
The little wheel at the top of the square is begun with 10 chain for the ring = 16 plain on the ring, 4 chain, * 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 14 times from *; 16 trebles in all, including the chain stitches = then on each treble and each chain stitch: 1 plain; after 4 plain: 1 picot; connect the wheel first on the right.
The 2nd picot is to be fastened to the 9th picot of the large scallop = proceed with: 3 times 4 plain with 1 picot = after the 3rd plain, fasten the picot to the 3rd picot of the next large scallop and complete the small wheel. The left wheel is made and inserted in the same manner as the right one. The wheels at the bottom of the square require for the foundation ring: 14 chain, on which you make 21 plain = on these: 4 chain, * 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 19 times from *; 21 trebles in all, including the chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 8th picot of the 2nd scallop; 4 chain, finish the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 10th picot of the scallop, 8 chain, complete the picot; 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 2nd picot of the 3rd scallop, 8 chain, close the picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 4th picot of the 3rd scallop; 4 chain, complete the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot and so on, until you have 14 picots round the wheel. Repeat the same wheel to the left between the 4th and 5th scallop.
The edging of this second kind of square is also slightly different; fasten the thread to the 6th picot of the 1st scallop before the small wheel, then working from right to left, count: * 10 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the small wheel; 8 chain, 1 triple treble on the 4th picot of the wheel = upwards: 9 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot of the wheel; 9 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 8th scallop, 12 chain, 1 plain on the 7th picot of the scallop, 11 chain **, 1 quadruple treble on the 9th picot of the 8th scallop and on the 3rd picot of the 7th; draw the last loops of the two trebles up together. Repeat once more from ** to *, then: 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 6th scallop; *** 12 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the 9th picot of the 6th scallop, retain 2 loops of the treble on the needle, make 4 more overs, join the treble to the 3rd picot of the 5th scallop; finish the bars, 12 chain, 1 plain in the 6th picot of the next scallop = 12 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd picot of the 7 empty picots of the bottom wheel; 9 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot; 12 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot, 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop, 14 chain ***, 1 septuple treble, in the 9th and 3rd picots of the 4th and 3rd scallops ****. For the preceding treble, you pass first through 4 loops only, then make 4 more overs for the other half of the treble, and finish the last loops one by one. Repeat from **** to ***. One row of plain stitches completes the square.
After having made the square similar to that of the upper one, you have merely to add the large wheels at the top.
The setting of chain stitches and trebles is begun at the first scallop between 2 wheels = 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 1st scallop; 14 chain, 2 quintuple trebles, of which the last loops only are joined together, on the 9th and 3rd picot of the 1st and 2nd scallop, = 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the next scallop; * 14 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the wheel; 10 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot, 10 chain, 1 treble on the 6th picot; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 3rd scallop; 14 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 3rd and 4th scallop; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop; 16 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 4th and 5th scallop; 16 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 5th scallop; 15 chain ** 3 septuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 5th and 6th scallop. Repeat from ** to *; and make 4 figures with rounded edges. When all the figures are finished, join them together by trebles of a suitable length.
Introduce the thread at the corner stitch on the widest side of the 2nd 8 pointed star and make: 1 plain, 6 chain, miss 3 stitches, 1 plain on the 3 next stitches, 4 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the next 3 plain stitches.
Make 11 loops in this manner, each consisting of 4 chain and 3 plain, then 2 loops of 3 chain and 2 plain = then miss as many stitches of the square at the edge of the collar as were left empty in the second square; 2 plain and draw the loop each time through the 2 last stitches of the opposite square = 1 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain stitch of the opposite side; 1 chain, 3 plain on the edge of the first square, 1 chain, 1 single, 1 chain, miss 3 stitches, 3 plain, 5 chain, bring the loop from the wrong side to the right = on the chain stitches: 4 plain, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 plain.
From this point onwards, fasten all the bars of chain stitches to the loops produced by the same stitches in the 2nd square. Thus, the 1st bar consisting of 5 chain, the 2nd will consist of 7 chain on which make 7 plain, and then add 2 more chain. Nowhere must the two first chain stitches be uncovered.
The 3rd bar must consist of 9 chain, 9 plain and 2 chain = the 4th of 11 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 5th of 13 chain, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 2 chain = the 6th of 16 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 7th of 18 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 8th of 21 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 9th of 24 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 10th of 26 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 11th and last of 28 chain, 32 plain, 2 chain, fasten off.
As the square with the semicircles in it, has more plain stitches in the edge than the one with the eight-pointed star in it, the stitches must be divided so that you miss 3 from time to time, instead of two. When the 7 top figures are finished, join the 7 bottom ones to them, each separately, by a row of plain stitches, made on the wrong side of the work. Below the first square with the semicircles, comes the eight-pointed star, below the next eight-pointed star, the square with the semicircles, and so on.
A narrow edging forms the outside border, the foundation of which is a row of plain stitches running all along the squares. At the middle of the square you decrease by 2 stitches, and at the point where two squares meet, by 3. When you reach the left side and the end of the row, make 3 plain on the corner stitch, then: * 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them to the first of the 5 first plain (drop the thread at each scallop and bring it forward from the wrong side to the right) = on the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 11 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = along the square: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, then 14 chain, join them to the first plain = over the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them in turning back between the 5th and 6th of the 10 plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain; on the half-finished scallop: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain ** = on the plain stitches of the edge: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, come back, join to the 1st of the 4 plain = on the 12 chain: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain *** = repeat on the same figure once from * to *** and once from * to **.
This makes 77 stitches, the number there ought to be on the wide side of the straight-edged figures.
The scallops vary a little on the rounded sides. There, you should have 110 stitches, counting from the corner to the treble that marks the middle at the bottom. The single scallops, between the triple scallops of the border, are also all made over 8 stitches; the first triple scallop is made over 20 stitches, the 2nd, 3rd and 4th triple scallop over 16 stitches.
Make no single scallop after the 4th triple one; which is immediately succeeded by the 5th triple scallop, over 16 stitches.
Altogether, round each star, there are 9 triple and 8 single scallops. After the 8th single one, make 3 plain stitches on the 2 chain stitches of the connecting bar.
On the 32 plain stitches of the last bar: 8 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join to the 5th of the 8 plain = on the 12 chain: 5 plain, 2 chain, draw the loop through the picot in the middle of the last single scallop, 2 chain, close the picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them to the 4th plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the half-finished scallop: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = 12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain. 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them close to the scallop above = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join them to the 4th plain of the 2nd scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in each of the 2 half-finished scallops: 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = finish with 4 plain, 3 plain on the 2 chain and repeat from * round all the rounded parts.
The lozenges that fill the empty spaces between the large figures are made in 7 rows, on a ring formed of 4 chain.
1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the ring, 2 chain, 8 trebles in all, including the bar of chain stitches.
2nd row—3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain over each treble.
3rd row—7 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath, 5 chain, 1 treble; 8 trebles in all.
4th row—* 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long; ** repeat the reverse way to * = 1 plain on the treble, 7 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble, 1 plain. Repeat twice from * to **, followed by: 9 chain, miss 1, 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, 1 single ***. Repeat once from * to ***, then again from * to **, and add 5 single all along the scallop.
5th row—9 chain * 1 plain on the top stitch of the small leaf, 7 chain, 1 treble on the middle stitch of the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the next scallop = 9 chain, 1 plain on the leaf, 9 chain, 1 treble on the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the next scallop, 7 chain and repeat once from *.
6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the row before, 3 plain on the points.
7th row—on each side of the lozenge 3 little scallops on 8 chain, with 3 picots and 1 picot below the scallops and between every 4 plain; the scallops at the points extend over 4 stitches only, so that the picot below is left out.
These lozenges are fastened on two sides to the middle picot of the triple scallop; then, starting from the 3rd scallop of the lozenge you make, 8 chain, join them to the middle picot of the 1st triple scallop; coming back over the 8 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain and finish the scallop. The next scallop, at the point of the lozenge, is fastened by a picot of 6 chain, to the middle picot of the 6th scallop underneath the connecting bar. Repeat the same on the 2nd side and make 6 lozenges in all.
The lace that finishes off the collar at the neck must be made to stand up, and is begun by a row of trebles on the plain stitches.
From the corner as far as the 2nd treble of the 4th scallop, make triple trebles, from the 4th scallop to the 6th chain stitch after the 5th scallop, make double trebles, from this point to the 2nd scallop of the next semicircle, only single trebles, then again double trebles and finish with triple trebles as at the beginning. Decrease by 2 or 3 stitches in each square.
When this row of trebles is finished, fasten off, and fasten on again on the right and on the base of the 1st treble which you border with 4 chain, then follow: * 15 plain on the row of trebles, put the needle in under the 2 loops of the trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 double treble, miss 4 plain, 1 double treble on the 5th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, miss 4 plain = turn the work = bring the loop to the front; ** 1 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on the treble; repeat 3 times again from ** and add 4 plain on the trebles = turn the work = 6 chain, 1 double treble over the treble beneath; again 3 times 6 chain stitches and 1 double treble; join the 4th set of 6 chain to the 4th plain = bring the thread back to the front: 1 plain on the 6 chain = 8 chain, miss 1, and make on the others: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 double trebles, 1 plain stitch on the 6 chain. The next point comes above a treble; you make 7 points in all. After the 7th: 5 plain, then 7 chain, 1 plain on each point between the points and join.
Join the 8th set of 7 chain on to the 4th plain of the first treble = then add: 2 chain, draw the loop from the wrong side to the right through the 1st plain stitch; 8 trebles, 1 picot, 4 trebles, 12 chain, bring them back over the picot, join it between the 4th and 5th trebles; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain.
Over each point: 1 picot and over the picot 1 scallop, like the one made in the square. On the 7th point only 1 picot = after the last treble on the last chain: 2 chain; then go on with the plain stitches until you have 27 and repeat from *.
In the semicircles that follow you leave out the first and last little scallops, the first and the last scallop must be joined together by the first and the last picot; in the last semicircle, make 6 little scallops, the same as you did in the first.
Crochet chair-back (fig. 485).—The close leaves in plain stitch of the large centre star, the 4 corner figures forming a cross and the diagonal figures, all have to be made separately and sewn on afterwards in their proper place. To join the separate parts neatly together, draw a square the size of the work on a piece of thick paper or waxcloth, divide it into 8 parts by means of straight and diagonal lines, sew the separate pieces of crochet upon it, face downwards, in their proper places and make the trebles on the wrong side of the work.