Illustration: Charcoal Carriers, Amalfi
CHARCOAL CARRIERS, AMALFI
THE
NAPLES RIVIERA
BY
HERBERT M. VAUGHAN, B.A. (Oxon.)
AUTHOR OF “THE LAST OF THE ROYAL STUARTS”



WITH TWENTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY
MAURICE GREIFFENHAGEN


METHUEN & CO
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON

First Published in 1907

TO
G. L. L.
IN MEMORY OF
MANY PLEASANT DAYS IN THE SUNNY SOUTH
THIS BOOK IS
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
BY THE AUTHOR

[pg vii]

CONTENTS

   CHAPTER I PAGE
   Introductory 1
   CHAPTER II
   The Vesuvian Shore and Monte Sant’ Angelo 8
   CHAPTER III
   La Città Morta 38
   CHAPTER IV
   Vesuvius 66
   CHAPTER V
   The Corniche Road 100
   CHAPTER VI
   Amalfi and the Festival of St Andrew 126
   CHAPTER VII
   Ravello and the Rufoli 152
   CHAPTER VIII
   Salerno 172
   CHAPTER IX
   Paestum and the Glory that was Greece 198
   CHAPTER X
   Sorrento and its Poet 221
   CHAPTER XI
   Capri and Tiberius the Tyrant 249
   CHAPTER XII
   Ischia and the Lady of the Rock 275
   CHAPTER XIII
   Puteoli and the Grandeur that was Rome 295
   ————
   Index 321
[pg ix]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

   PAGE
   Charcoal Carriers, Amalfi Frontispiece
   A Capriote Fisherman’s Wife 16
   Road near Castellamare 30
   Monte Faito, Castellamare 37
   The Forum, Pompeii 46
   La Casa dei Vettii, Pompeii 58
   Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples 80
   Pozzano 101
   Evening at Amalfi 124
   Amalfi 132
   In the Valley of the Mills, Amalfi 140
   Amalfi: Piazza and Duomo 148
   Ravello: Il Duomo 156
   A Street in Ravello 163
   Minori at Sunset 170
   On the Road To Ravello 186
   The Temple of Neptune, Paestum 204
   Afternoon, Sorrento 230
   Faraglioni Rocks, Capri 249
   Capri From the Villa Jovis 254
   In the Blue Grotto, Capri 262
   A Gateway, Capri 274
   On the Piccola Marina, Capri 288
   Ischia From Castellamare (Sunset) 294
   On the Beach 306
[pg xi]

BIBLIOGRAPHY

A small selection out of the books I have consulted during the preparation of this work is given below:—

E. Gibbon: Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire.

Dean Merivale: The Romans under the Empire.

Pliny’s Letters: (Church’s and Brodribb’s Translation, London, 1897).

J. Phillips: Vesuvius (Oxford, 1869).

C. Ramage: Nooks and Byways of Italy.

C. Lenormant: À Travers la Lucanie et l’Apulie.

W. J. A. Stamer: Dolce Napoli (London, 1878).

E. Neville Rolfe: Naples in 1888.

Constance Giglioli: Naples in 1799.

C. L. Sismondi: Histoire des Républiques Italiennes.

L. Alberti: Descrizione di tutta l’ Italia (Venetia, 1596).

C. Mills: The Travels of Theodore Ducas (London, 1822).

Les Délices d’Italie (Paris, 1707).

Nuova Guida de’ Forastieri in Napoli, etc. (1751).

Count Stolberg: Travels through Italy and Sicily in 1756.

A. H. Norway: Naples, Past and Present (London, 1904).

E. Busk: Folk-Songs of Italy.

[pg xii]

J. A. Symonds: Sketches and Studies in Italy.

Catherine Phillimore: Studies in Italian Literature (London, 1891).

T. A. Trollope: A Decade of Italian Women (London, 1859).

G. Boccaccio: Il Decamerone.

A. Mau: Pompeii: its Life and Art (New York, 1899).

J. Fergusson: Handbook of Architecture (London, 1859).

Franz von Reber: History of Ancient and Mediæval Art (New York, 1882).

E. Jameson: Sacred and Legendary Art (London, 1879).

J. Elworthy: History of the Evil Eye (London, 1888).

N. Valletta: Cicalata sul Fascino detto Jettatura (Napoli, 1819).

A. Canale: Storia dell’ Isola di Capri.

G. Amalfi: Tradizioni ed Vsi nella Penisola Sorrentina.