The Project Gutenberg eBook of Across South America

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Title: Across South America

Author: Hiram Bingham

Release date: June 6, 2016 [eBook #52248]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Rachael Schultz, Chuck Greif and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA ***

Contents.

Some typographical errors have been corrected; a list follows the text.
Index: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y, Z

List of Illustrations
Maps
(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] clicking directly on the image, will bring up a larger version.)

(etext transcriber's note)

By the Same Author

THE JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ACROSS VENEZUELA AND COLOMBIA, 1906-07. With 133 illustrations and a map. Published by the Yale University Press.

ACROSS   SOUTH   AMERICA

Image unavailable: RIO FROM THE CORCOVADO
RIO FROM THE CORCOVADO

 

ACROSS
SOUTH   AMERICA

AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY FROM BUENOS
AIRES TO LIMA BY WAY OF POTOSÍ

WITH NOTES ON BRAZIL, ARGENTINA,
BOLIVIA, CHILE, AND PERU

BY
HIRAM   BINGHAM
YALE UNIVERSITY

WITH EIGHTY ILLUSTRATIONS
AND MAPS

[Image of the colophon unavailabl.e]
BOSTON AND NEW YORK
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
The Riverside Press Cambridge
1911

 

COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY HIRAM BINGHAM

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Published April 1911

 

THIS VOLUME IS

AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

TO

THE MOTHER OF

SIX LITTLE BOYS

PREFACE

In September, 1908, I left New York as a delegate of the United States Government and of Yale University to the First Pan-American Scientific Congress, held at Santiago, Chile, in December and January, 1908-09. Before attending the Congress I touched at Rio de Janeiro and the principal coast cities of Brazil, crossed the Argentine Republic from Buenos Aires to the Bolivian frontier, rode on mule-back through southern Bolivia, visiting both Potosí and Sucre, went by rail from Oruro to Antofagasta, and thence by steamer to Valparaiso. After the Congress I retraced my steps into Bolivia by way of the west coast, Arequipa, and Lake Titicaca. Picking up the overland trail again at Oruro, I continued my journey across Bolivia and Peru, via La Paz, Tiahuanaco, and Cuzco, thence by mules over the old Inca road as far as Huancayo, the present terminus of the Oroya-Lima Railroad. At Abancay I turned aside to explore Choqquequirau, the ruins of an Inca fortress in the valley of the Apurimac; an excursion that could not have been undertaken at all had it not been for the very generous assistance of Hon. J. J. Nuñez, the Prefect of Apurimac, and his zealous aide, Lieutenant Caceres of the Peruvian army. I reached Lima in March, 1909.

The chief interest of the trip lay in its being an exploration of the most historic highway in South America, the old trade route between Lima, Potosí, and Buenos Aires. The more difficult parts of this road were used by the Incas and their conqueror Pizarro; by Spanish viceroys, mine owners, and merchants; by the liberating armies of Argentina; and finally by Bolivar and Sucre, who marched and countermarched over it in the last campaigns of the Wars of Independence.

Realizing from previous experience in Venezuela and Colombia that the privilege of travelling in a semi-official capacity would enable me to enjoy unusual opportunities for observation, I made it the chief object of my journey to collect and verify information regarding the South American people, their history, politics, economics, and physical environment. The present volume, however, makes no pretence at containing all I collected or verified. Such a work would be largely a compilation of statistics. The ordinary facts are readily accessible in the current publications of the ably organized Pan-American Bureau in Washington. Nevertheless, I have included some data that seemed likely to prove serviceable to intending travellers.

Grateful acknowledgment for kind assistance freely rendered in many different ways is due to President Villazon of Bolivia, the late President Montt of Chile, and President Leguia of Peru; to Secretary, now Senator, Root and the officials of the Diplomatic and Consular Service; to Professor Rowe and my fellow delegates to the Pan-American Scientific Congress; and particularly to J. Luis Schaefer, Esq., W. S. Eyre, Esq., and their courteous associates of the house of W. R. Grace & Co. Although business houses rarely take the trouble to make the path of the scientist or investigator more comfortable, it would be no easy task to enumerate all the favors that were shown, not only to me, but also to the other members of the American delegation, by Messrs. Grace & Co. and the managers and clerks of their many branches.

Acknowledgments are likewise due to the officials of the Buenos Aires and Rosario Railroad, the Peruvian Corporation, and the Bolivia Railway; and to Colonel A. de Pederneiras, Sr. Amaral Franco, Don Santiago Hutcheon, Sr. C. A. Novoa, Sr. Arturo Pino Toranzo, Dr. Alejandro Ayalá, Captain Louis Merino of the Chilean army, Don Moises Vargas, Sr. Lopez Chavez, and Messrs. Charles L. Wilson, A. G. Snyder, U. S. Grant Smith, J. B. Beazley, D. S. Iglehart, John Pierce Hope, Rankin Johnson, Rea Hanna, and a host of others who helped to make my journey easier and more profitable.

I desire also to express my gratitude, for unnumbered kindnesses, both to Huntington Smith, who accompanied me during the first part of my journey, and to Clarence Hay, who was my faithful companion on the latter part.

Some parts of the story have already been told in the “American Anthropologist,” the “American Political Science Review,” the “Popular Science Monthly,” the “Bulletin of the American Geographical Society,” the “Records of the Past,” and the “Yale Courant,” to whose editors acknowledgment is due for permission to use the material in its present form.

Hiram Bingham.

Yale University, New Haven, Conn.
20 November, 1910.

CONTENTS

 PAGE
I. Pernambuco and Bahia3
II. Rio, Santos, and Brazilian Trade16
III. Buenos Aires29
IV. Argentine Independence and Spanish-American Solidarity46
V. The Tucuman Express60
VI. Through the Argentine Highlands69
VII. Across the Bolivian Frontier81
VIII. Tupiza to Cotagaita92
IX. Escara to Laja Tambo104
X. Potosí117
XI. Sucre, the de jure Capital of Bolivia133
XII. The Road to Challapata148
XIII. Oruro to Antofagasta and Valparaiso164
XIV. Santiago and the First Pan-American Scientific Congress180
XV. Northern Chile198
XVI. Southern Peru211
XVII. La Paz, the de facto Capital of Bolivia224
XVIII. The Bolivia Railway and Tiahuanaco241
XIX. Cuzco254
XX. Sacsahuaman272
XXI. The Inca Road to Abancay280
XXII. The Climb to Choqquequirau296
XXIII. Choqquequirau307
XXIV. Abancay to Chincheros324
XXV. Bombon to the Battlefield of Ayacucho341
XXVI. Ayacucho to Lima360
XXVII. Certain South American Traits379
 Index: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y, Z393

ILLUSTRATIONS

 PAGE
Rio from the Corcovado (page 21)Frontispiece
Looking down into the Lower City, Bahia12
The Corcovado from Rio20
The Harbor of Santos24
The Docks of Buenos Aires30
Avenida 25 de Mayo, Buenos Aires34
The Uspallata Pass50
Our Coach leaving the Hotel at La Quiaca82
The Angosta de Tupiza86
Fantastic Pinnacles in the Valleys North of Tupiza90
A Quichua Family going to plough94
The Valley through which we had come98
Our First Glimpse of a Snow-clad Bolivian Mountain112
View of the Cerro from the Roof of the Mint120
The Cerro of Potosí from the Spanish Reservoirs124
An Ancient Quichua Ore Crusher124
The Market-Place of Potosí128
Greener and more Populous Valleys132
The Picturesque Old Church of Bartolo134
A Pasture for Sheep and Alpacas138
A Quichua Woman weaving at Quebrada Honda138
The Great River Pilcomayo142
Our Hotel in Sucre142
An Abandoned Tambo150
Our First View of the Great Table-land of Bolivia150
A Friendly Llama Baby160
My Mule on the Last Day’s Ride160
The Prefectura and Plaza of Oruro166
A Quaint Old Balcony in Oruro170
A Corner in Oruro170
Battlefield of Maipo near Santiago186
Mollendo212
The Cathedral of Arequipa and Mt. Chachani216
An Old Doorway in Arequipa216
Chachani and Misti216
Monolithic Image at Tiahuanaco228
The Market-Place of La Paz232
A Remarkable Stairway at Tiahuanaco232
Balsas near Guaqui on Lake Titicaca240
An Old Church near the Bolivia Railway240
Great Platforms of Stone weighing Many Tons250
Part of the Great Monolithic Doorway250
Llamas of Cuzco258
Cuzco from Sacsahuaman258
Sacsahuaman266
The Plaza, Cuzco, with Cathedral and Jesuit Church266
A Section of the Lower Terrace, Sacsahuaman274
An Inca Vase from Cuzco278
Articles of Dress and a Decorated Mule Halter from Cuzco278
The Gobernador of Curahuasi and his Family288
A Chasm down which plunged a Small Cataract298
The Wonderful Cañon of the Apurimac298
Sunrise at Choqquequirau302
The Frail Little Bridge over the Apurimac302
A Story and a Half High, built of Stones laid in Clay308
The Party Wall rises to the Peak308
The Interior of the Buildings near the Outer Precipice312
The Upper Six Steps of the Giant Stairway312
Skulls, etc., from Choqquequirau316
Interior of a Building at Choqquequirau316
Our Cavalcade on the Bridge of Pachachaca324
Some of the Sheep had very Long Curly Horns334
The Club at Chincheros338
The Large Plaza of Ayacucho342
The Bridge over the River Pampas342
Ayacucho346
The Courtyard of the Hotel346
A Picturesque Corner in Ayacucho350
Crossing the Pongora River on the Shaky Suspension Bridge350
The Battlefield of Ayacucho354
The Battlefield as it appeared to the Spaniards354
The Bridge over the Huarpa362
Urumyosi366
The Hut near Paucara366
The Toll-Bridge of Tablachaca368
Sunday Morning in Huancayo372
MAPS
The Author’s Route across South America3
Southern Peru81
Southern Bolivia281
Choqquequirau and Vicinity307
Lower Plaza Choqquequirau310
Upper Plaza Choqquequirau314
Cuzco and Neighboring Fortresses318