In Fig. XXXV. there is a clear illustration given of the principle of the centre tie-up on an 8-row comber-board A, A´, B, B´. In laying out the comber board, it must be divided by the line C, C´, into two equal parts, D, C, and C, D´. In the part A, A´, C, C´, of the comber-board, we commence threading with leash 1 at the left-hand rear corner, running in succession towards the centre, as indicated by the arrow on this part of the comber-board.

In part B, B´, C, C´, the threading begins in the opposite corner, to the right-hand in front, with number 1 leash, threading in rotation the number of leashes from the front towards the rear, as again indicated on the figure by an arrow. After leasing and threading the harness, No. 1 leash will contain in its two mails the first and the last of the warp-threads, as indicated in Fig. XXXV. by the numbers, and the rotation by the arrows, S and S´.

Fig. XXXVI. represents this centre or point tie-up applied to a 200 Jacquard machine; comber-board, 8 rows deep; two full divisions; A, B, the first division; B, D, the second division; C and C´ forming the centre in each division. This machine will, if tied-up in this manner, produce a design requiring 400 warp-threads. We must arrange the design for this tie-up so as to repeat forwards and backwards respectively in the centre. Such a design will run upwards at a given angle to a definite point, then it will return by the same angle in an opposite direction until it reaches the base from which it originally started.

In this manner design, Fig. XXXVII., is constructed. A, B, C, C´, D, correspond with the same letters used in Fig. XXXVI.; hence, it will readily explain itself, as well as the method to be observed in designing for this kind of tie-up. The design runs straight through from A to C, and repeats itself backwards from C to B, finishing at B the first full division.

B-C´ equal A-C,}
C´-D equal C-B,} forming the second division.

Any changes as to different sizes of machines, rows deep of comber-board, or number of divisions, must be executed upon the principle explained in this article.

V. “Straight-Through” and “Point” Tie-ups Combined.

A.—For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up and for their borders a point tie-up, one-half division of it for each border.

These tie-ups are used to a great extent for napkins, handkerchiefs, scarfs, and similar damask fabrics, in which the centre part of the fabric is worked on the straight-through method; the borders on each side on the point tie-up, repeating equally from centre towards the selvedge. In the other two borders to be woven at the beginning and the end of the fabric, the same principle is observed, thus producing four corner squares, only two of which need be designed, as the other two repeat through the arrangement of the tie-up, which must repeat equally towards both sides of the border at the connecting places.

Fig. XXXVIII. illustrates this method of tying-up a 200 machine, using 192 hooks and needles, equal to 24 long rows of a regular 8-row deep machine. The machine is divided into two sections, as follows:

The drawing represents four divisions for the centre, hence four harness-cords for each leash. The border, having only two repeats in the fabric, will contain only two harness-cords to one leash. In the drawing the first full row of the machine is indicated, which is equal to the first row deep of every centre division; containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. We also show (heavy line) the last centre leash, No. 96 being the last hook of row 12 of the machine. The borders A´ and A´´ are from the same design, but the figure runs in an opposite direction in each one, as indicated by the arrows in the comber-board above. Border A´ commences with harness-cord from leash 192, ending with harness-cord from leash 97, near the centre design. Border A´´ commences with harness-cord from leash 97, near the centre design, ending with harness-cord from leash 192 near the selvedge. The great difficulty to be overcome in arranging these patterns for the loom is in the union of the two tie-ups, the straight-through and the point.

As previously stated, the borders A´ and A´´ are made with the point tie-up, while the remainder of the borders are made with the straight-through tie-up. The combination of these two tie-ups occurs in the corner squares of the border, and the arrangement must be such as will permit the two sides of the corner patterns to properly unite with the design for the balance of the border.

Ground plan for above fabric: Letters A, C, D, B, F, correspond to same letters as used on the outside of fabric design. S, S´, S´´, S´´´, S´´´´, also correspond for centre division.

For the purpose of giving a correct comprehension of the foregoing explanation of tying-up, but under a different arrangement, Fig. XXXIX. was designed for a 600 machine, having the same arrangement of the borders, viz.: point tie-up, using one-half division for each side; the centre a straight tie-up, but employing only one repeat. The following particulars will explain the entire procedure:

200 needles and hooks are used for borders, point tie-up, once through, equals 1/2 division for each border. [See letters B and B´ on comber-board.]

In the ground plan of the fabric A is the centre; B, B´, B´´, B´´´, borders; C, C´, C´´, C´´´, corners.

Fig. XL. is a fabric design executed on this principle: a to b, border; c to d, centre; b to a, repeat of the first border.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

B.—For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up, and for their border on point tie-up one full division for each border.

This arrangement of both foundation tie-ups resembles the preceding. The only difference is found in employing the full division of the centre or point tie-up for each border instead of the half division.

Fig. XLI. illustrates this method of tying-up adjusted to a 600 Jacquard machine. The centre of the fabric requires 400 needles and hooks in 6 repeats or divisions, or 400 × 6 = 2400 warp-threads. The border calls for 204 needles and hooks, point tie-up, one full division for each side, or 204 × 2 x 2 = 816 warp-threads. The arrangement of margin and selvedge, as applied on each side, is explained separately through ground plan of comber-board by fig. XLII. The margin calls for 8 needles and 8 hooks in machine, 6 repeats of same for each side, or 96 warp-threads. The selvedge is formed by 2, 4 or 8 needles, (working plain), and has 24 heddles for each side or 48 selvedge-threads in warp. These selvedge ends may, if preferred, be drawn two ends in one heddle. By adding these different systems of threads we find:

For the centre part of the fabric, needle and hook  1 to 400 are used.
For the border part of the fabric, needle and hook 401 to 604 are used.
For the margin part of the fabric, needle and hook 605 to 612 are used.

Leaving one complete row of the reserve to use for selvedge, etc., if required.

In drawing, Fig. XLI., we only illustrate centre and border of the tie-up, so as not to confuse the eye by too many lines, and, as mentioned at the beginning, employed Fig. XLII. for illustrating the ground plan for selvedge and margin. In selvedge and margin the harness-cords are indicated by consecutive numbers, thus:

Margin,    1 to 48.
Selvedge, 1 to 24.

When threading margin in comber-board:
 1,  9, 17, 25, 33, 41, call for the same leash.
2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, call for the same leash.
3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, call for the same leash.
4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, call for the same leash.
5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, call for the same leash.
6, 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, call for the same leash.
7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, call for the same leash.
8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, call for the same leash.

Leashes in centre part of fabric,  1 to 400 call for 6 harness-cords.
Leashes in border part of fabric,  401 to 604 call for 14 harness-cords.
Leashes in margin part of fabric,  605 to 612 call for 12 harness-cords.
Leashes for selvedge if using 4 hooks, 613 to 616 call for 12 harness-cords.

This tie-up is the one most frequently employed in the manufacture of damask table-covers. Not only will drawings and explanations lead to a thorough understanding of the procedure, but they will also readily show the great variety of textile fabrics to which the principle of this tie-up may be applied.

Fig. XLIII. illustrates the margin arranged 8 threads for each row, and 5 rows or 40 threads for each side. The selvedge in this drawing is illustrated by one complete row of 12 double threads for each side. The selvedge and margin holes are all represented shaded. The selvedge is marked S in addition to the number. The five margin rows are indicated each by figures 1 to 8. The nearest row of border is also represented, being numbered 401 to 412, corresponding to Fig. XLI. This method of using only 8 rows of the 12-row deep comber-board is extensively used in fabrics of a common texture, employing an 8 harness satin for the margin as weave, which repeats once for each row in comber-board. Besides, a great advantage results from being able to tie-up 8 leashes threaded 8 rows deep in comber-board to the 8 hooks in 1 row of the machine, which the weave calls for.

Fig. XLIV. and Fig. XLV. represent designs for fabrics executed on this method of tying-up.

Fig. XLIV.—A to B = border, C the centre.
B to D = margin, between centre and border.
D to E = 1 repeat of the centre, 6 times over in width of fabric.

Fig. XLV.—A to B = border, C its centre.
B to D = centre, 6 times over in width of fabric.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

C.—For fabrics having the centre for straight-through, with the border for straight-through and point tie-ups, (half divisions), combined.

This method of tying-up is illustrated in Fig. XLVI., and the fabric produced in Fig. XLVII. With this method of tying-up is usually introduced an extra margin for the purpose of separating the ornamentation of the design, so as to permit of a clearer definition. This is tied-up on 8 needles and hooks, situated between border and centre, (24 ends) shown at margin B in the design. The centre of the fabric, (two divisions only illustrated out of ten actually used), is tied-up on the straight-through method, requiring for its working, harness-cords 1 to 240. The border has the point tie-up in half sections; these half sections have a straight-through tie-up design in its centre. Harness-cords 241 to 456 are used for the straight-through section, and 457 to 600 for the point tie-up section. The margin is produced by harness-cords 601 to 608, leaving 16 needles and hooks of the machine unemployed, which may be used for selvedge or other purposes. The drawing of this tie-up and fabric illustrates only the right-hand side. The complete design requires, in addition to the borders and margins, 10 divisions or repeats in the centre. The figure shows only two of these repeats and border and margins of one side. The number of ends in the fabric is found as follows:

Number of harness-cords required for each leash:

Leashes     1 to 240 = 10 cords to 1 leash.
Leashes 241 to 456 =  2 cords to 1 leash.
Leashes 457 to 600 =  4 cords to 1 leash.
Leashes 601 to 608 = 18 cords to 1 leash.

Selvedge leashes, if worked by 4 needles and hooks, = 12 cords to 1 leash.

Fig. XLVIII., on page 42, illustrates another fabric design to be executed on this method of tie-up.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

D.—For fabrics composed of the straight-through tie-up for centre; the point tie-up, half divisions, and the point tie-up, full divisions, for borders.

This method of tie-up is used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask napkins, containing in its centre the monogram of hotels, restaurants, or private names. This effect is produced by floating the filling.

In this manner, we find tie-up, Fig. XLIX., and fabric sample, Fig. L., executed, using for explanation a 400 Jacquard machine, certainly very low texture for these fabrics. In case of a higher texture being necessary, each effect must be proportionally increased. The machines most generally used for this class of fabrics are of the 900-1200 denomination.

Taking the present tie-up into consideration, we find the centre for forming the monogram, containing 200 harness-cords tied-up straight-through the borders on each side of the monogram, is executed on the point tie-up, one-half section for each side, taking 100 needles and hooks, or harness-cords. The outside border on each side is executed on the point tie-up, using one complete division of it for each side; and in addition, 100 harness-cords for the working. Adding these various divisions of the harness-cords gives the number of warp-threads as follows, viz.:

For number of harness cords to each leash we find:

Needles and hooks,     1 to 100 = 4 cords to each leash.
Needles and hooks, 101 to 200 = 2cords to each leash.
Needles and hooks, 201 to 400 = 1 cord to each leash.

Fig. LI. illustrates a fabric, damask table-cover, to be executed on the same principle.

This fabric can also be executed on the tie-up explained through Fig. XLI., as follows:

Border = a to i on point tie-up, e for centre or point.
Centre = 1st division i to k, straight-through.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

E.—Mixed Tie-up.

Containing in one repeat of the design the straight-through tie-up and the point tie-up, one full division, for the centre; the point tie-up, in half divisions, repeating once through on each side of the fabric, to make the border. These arrangements of tie-ups are used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask fabrics of every denomination.

The principle of using mixed tie-ups, Fig. LII., is found in the necessity of producing large designs, containing varied effects, with a proportionally smaller Jacquard machine. Under whatever management the straight-through and the point tie-ups are combined, their principle remains undisturbed. Every time we arrange a Jacquard loom on a mixed tie-up, we must consider that any subsequent design must be arranged with reference to the same principle as the one in use, otherwise the work must all be rearranged, which would have to be done even for the smallest change in the number of ends for each effect.

Take for illustration a damask fabric, Fig. LIII., handkerchief, bureau scarf, art square, etc. The details given will make the work quite plain:

Part of comber-board from A to B, or D to C, illustrates one-half of the board and procedure of tying-up. The design below also shows only one-half of the fabric. Arrow, G, near comber-board, and arrow, M, near fabric, are placed to indicate the direction in which a repeat is obtained. The fabric will form its centre at D, repeating towards each border and selvedge. This is illustrated in the comber-board by the 1-row deep, outside of line A, D. Harness-cords indicated by dotted lines. The threading of this last mentioned row, as well as the threading of the half division of the point tie-up, is indicated by arrows H and K, forming the centre by means of harness-cords 193 and 193. The straight-through tie-up part of the fabric is found between E and F, containing 12 repeats in the centre, and also the same number in the lower border. In the comber-board is illustrated this arrangement, repeating the first row, containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, twelve times, and the last hole of the third row containing harness-cord No. 24, twelve times. On the bottom of the comber-board these 12 repeats are indicated by 12 small arrows between parts E to F.

The first row in the first division of the straight-through tie-up is completely threaded; the other eleven have only the harness-cord from leash 1, as indicated; this is done so as not to confuse the eye with too many lines. The border of the fabric is arranged for harness-cords 25 to 192 on the point tie-up, having one-half division on each side. Arrow L indicates the right-hand border. The border on the left requires the same harness-cords which are threaded in comber-board from right to left; hence the borders of the fabric contain the same design repeating from the centre towards the selvedge.

At the beginning we stated that the use of mixed tie-ups made it possible to employ a smaller size Jacquard machine for large designs containing various effects. The following analysis of Fig. LII. shows very clearly how this is done.

Number of warp-ends in one complete repeat in width of the fabric:

Border, right-hand, = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 threads.
Centre, point-tie, { = 168 threads.
{ = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 threads.
Border, left-hand,    = 168 threads.
       -----
         1248 ends warp in fabric.

Number of needles required to produce the design:

Border, = 168 needles.

Centre on straight-tie, = 24 needles.

Centre on point-tie, = 168 needles.

360 needles required for producing the complete design, thus saving the difference between 1248 and 360, or 888 needles; all of which is accomplished through the use of the mixed tie-up.

Number of harness-cords required for each leash:

Leashes 1 to 24 contain 24 cords for one repeat of the entire design. Leashes 25 to 360 contain 2 cords for one repeat of the entire design. It is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to the lowest possible number of needles. On account of the changes in styles, it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as much opportunity as possible to the designer. In the present tie-up experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the straight-through tie-up either for 6 divisions to 48 ends each, or 4 divisions to 72 ends each. 360 needles, as figured at the beginning, require a 400 machine, or, counting reserve rows, 416 needles; hence we can, without disadvantage, increase 360 needles to 384 or 408, which will give a greater scope, if required, to make a new design.

VI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Two Sections.

A.—Using machine and comber-board in two equal sections.

This tie-up, Fig. LIV., is used on fabrics having two different kinds of warp, which, as a rule, are of different colors. One of these warps is shown working at B in the comber-board, and also at the bottom-board. The other warp employed for the figure effect is shown working at A. Fabrics that are made on this tie-up can also be made on the common straight-through; but the work of designing and card stamping will be largely increased. In the illustration all the figure-threads, and also all the threads used for the weave (binder-threads) can be designed without interruption to each other. The breaking off of the figures is thus avoided, a thing quite impossible where the regular straight-through tie-up is used. The drawing given herewith represents this straight-through tie-up in sections applied to a 200 Jacquard machine. The reserve rows are omitted. The machine and the comber-board, it will be observed, are divided into two even parts. In one part, the rear of A, of the comber-board we thread only in the leashes from needles 1 to 100, and in the other part, front of B, from needles 101 to 200. Hence, the first row of the comber-board contains leashes 1 to 4 and 101 to 104; the second row will contain leashes 5 to 8 and 105 to 108; the third row will contain leashes 9 to 12 and 109 to 112, and so on, each division finishing on the last row (25th) with leashes 97 to 100 and 197 to 200.

The leasing of the threads is always done by alternately threading the harness-cords of section A with section B. Hence, first thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 1; second thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 101; third thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 2; fourth thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 102.

Fig. LV., a fabric design for cloaking for straight-through tie-up in two sections. A, face warp, black silk; B, back warp, black cotton.

B. Using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections.

Sometimes two or more machines are employed in producing fabrics having two systems of warps; each machine working on its own system. In this manner Fig. LVI. is executed, representing a straight-through tie-up arranged for two Jacquard machines, S and H, in which the warp is drawn in the Jacquard harness as follows: one end from machine S, one end from machine H. For explanation two 100 Jacquard machines are used for the purpose of simplifying the arrangements of laying out and threading the comber-board. A larger Jacquard machine for the illustrations would require more leashes, and the explanation would be more difficult.

The comber-board, a, b, c, d, is divided into two equal parts, S and H. Each part containing the harness-cord for one machine only. The drawing of the tie-up is arranged for two divisions, and also readily explains any tie-up for more divisions.

The leasing of the Jacquard harness, K, is arranged (as illustrated in the drawing by leash-rods p and r) to commence as follows:

1st end: harness-cord fastened to No. 1 needle of machine, S; 2d end to No. 1º needle of machine, H; 3d end to No. 2 needle of machine, S; 4th end to No. 2º needle of machine, H; 5th end to No. 3 needle of machine, S; 6th end to No. 3º needle of machine, H; 7th end to No. 4 needle of machine, S; 8th end to No. 4º needle of machine, H.

These eight ends, forming the first complete row of the comber-board, will use the first row of both machines; the second row of the comber-board will use the second row of both machines; and so on, until every row of the comber-board, with corresponding row of the Jacquard machine, is taken up. In the drawing we have indicated, as usual, besides the first row, the last row of the machine and the comber-board; or, in other words, we show the threading of

Warp end 193: harness-cord fastened to No. 97 needle of harness S.
Warp end 194: harness-cord fastened to No. 97º needle of harness H.
Warp end 195: harness-cord fastened to No. 98 needle of harness S.
Warp end 196: harness-cord fastened to No. 98º needle of harness H.
Warp end 197: harness-cord fastened to No. 99 needle of harness S.
Warp end 198: harness-cord fastened to No. 99º needle of harness H.
Warp end 199: harness-cord fastened to No. 100 needle of harness S.
Warp end 200: harness-cord fastened to No. 100º needle of harness H.

Fig. LVII. shows a fabric design for a curtain, to be executed on the straight-through tie-up in two sections.

C.—Using one machine and one comber-board: the machine unequally divided and the comber-board equally divided.

To explain, take the regular upholstery fabric tie-up known as “petty point,” on a 600 machine 12 rows in depth. 600 ÷ 12 = 50 + 2 rows reserve = 52 rows in width. We find used—

41 (rows figure) × 12 (needles for one row) = 492 needles to be used for figure.

10 (rows binder) × 12 (needles for one row) = 120 needles to be used for binder.

Suppose we have four divisions in loom, hence, four harness-cords to one leash, for the figure section, or 492 × 4 = 1968 ends of warp used for figure. 1968 threads of figure warp require the same number of threads of ground warp, which must be divided by 120, the number of needles and hooks set apart for it in the machine, or—as each needle and hook carries one leash—120 leashes. 1968 ÷ 120 = 16 repeats; and 48 leashes, or four rows in the machine, must each have 17 harness-cords carrying 816 threads; and 72 leashes, or six rows in the machine, must each have 16 harness-cords carrying 1152 threads, = 1968.

VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single).

This tie-up (the character of which is indicated in Fig. LVIII.) is used for textile fabrics having two distinct warps in part of the fabric, and a single warp in the remainder, for ground only. It will readily be seen in the drawing which explains this tie-up that one part of the fabric will have to contain more ends of warp per inch than the other, as the figuring is done with an extra warp upon the regular ground cloth. The number of ends of ground warp per inch will, as a general rule, be the same throughout the fabric. In Fig. LVIII., explaining this method of tying-up, the texture is twice as high in the figure stripe as in the ground part of the fabric. If 40 ends of warp per inch are used for the ground, 80 ends per inch must be used in the figured part, B to C, B´ to C´.

A 200 machine is used in the illustration, divided as follows:

150 needles for the ground over the entire fabric, A to B´´.
50 needles for the figure effects, B to C, and B´ to C´.

The comber-board, therefore, must be arranged accordingly, (2-2/3 divisions in drawing executed). The depth of the comber-board is divided into two parts: H, M, N, K, the first; M, N, O, P, the second. The first contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to needles 151 to 200, or the figure part, F and F´; the second contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to the needles 1 to 150, or the ground part for the entire fabric. In the drawing of lines showing the harness-cords of the Jacquard harness we have only indicated:

A. The ground part, leashes Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4 in rotation, and No. 150. This last leash of the ground warp we have indicated by a heavy line.

B. For the figure part, needles 151 to 200 are used. Leashes 151, 152, 153, 154, are indicated in rotation, also the leash operated by hook 200; this latter one being also lined more distinctly than the others.

These explanations readily show how to adapt the tying-up for any textile fabric made upon this principle to any number Jacquard machine.

VIII. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Three Sections.

The straight-through tie-up in three sections, which is illustrated by drawings, Figs. LIX. and LX., is largely used in the manufacture of fancy plushes and velvets, and also in the construction of any other kinds of fabrics in which the face is figured in three systems of warps, or in two systems of warps for the face and one system for the binder.

If it were required, these fabrics could be made on the straight tie-up, (Figs. XXV., XXVIII. and XXX.), but, as will readily be seen, they may be worked to much better advantage, both for designing and card-stamping, upon the method shown here.

Fig. LIX. illustrates the method of adjusting the leashes to the neck-cords and threading the comber-board. In the example, we use for describing the method a 900 Jacquard machine, and follow the English system for placing it on the loom. The machine is divided into three sections: Section 1, using hooks and needles 1 to 300; Section 2, using hooks and needles 301 to 600; Section 3, using hooks and needles 601 to 900, leaving the two reserve rows (generally found in every machine) out of the illustration.

The comber-board is divided into two divisions lengthways, (but the same method must be observed if more than two divisions are used), and also into three sections in its depth. The number of sections in the comber-board must correspond to the number of sections in the machine.

The threading of the machine is done from the rear towards the front, and from the left towards the right. The threading of the comber-board is done in a corresponding manner. 300 ends for each section in one division, divided by 4 rows deep each section, making 75 cross-rows. Threading of the Jacquard harness is as follows: