And so on; all of which are shown separately in Fig. LX.

R and R´´ are for the two-lease strings; S, the successive order of threads; S´´, the number of leashes. Hooks and needles correspond with drawing A. White warp-threads indicate section 1; shaded warp-threads, section 2; black warp-threads, section 3. The fine lines in Fig. LIX. indicate the leashes for the first row deep of the comber-board; the heavy lines indicate the last leash for each section.

Fig. LXI. illustrates a fabric designed for this tie-up. The various small star effects are arranged on the principle of the 5-leaf satin.

Fig. LXII. shows the comber-board divided into three distinct sections, marked I., II. and III. For explanation, take a 300 machine; allow 100 needles and hooks for each section, distributed as follows: Section I., 1 to 100; Section II., 101 to 200; Section III., 201 to 300. Each section contains 200 warp-threads; and the complete division of three sections, 600 threads. The threading of three sections, illustrated in Fig. LX., is applied to the present tie-up, as follows:

X. Combination Tie-up in Two Sections. (“Tie-up Amalgamate.”)

This tie-up illustrates the point tie-up and the straight-through combined on the two-section system. In Fig. LXIII., a 600 machine is used for illustration; the comber-board being divided into two parts: a, b, c, d, for No. 1 section; e, f, g, h, for No. 2 section.

No. 1 section requires the use of needles and hooks 1 to 200 on the straight-through principle, four divisions, taking 800 warp-threads.

No. 2 section requires the use of needles and hooks 201 to 600 on the point principle, one division, taking 800 warp-threads. The two sections thus use 1600 warp-threads in one repeat.

The threading of the harness is as follows: 1-201, 2-202, 3-203, etc., ending with 200-201.

This tie-up, as well as any changes in the arrangement and the number of needles, (but not changed in its principle), is used for double color figures of warps of large design, with a small all-over figure effect (No. 1 section) for the ground. Fig. LXIV. is executed on this tie-up.

Fig. LXV. shows 384 needles and hooks of the Jacquard machine, threaded in four sections in comber-board, A, B, C, D. The threading of comber-board is as follows:

1st, No. 1 leash in section 1.
2d, No. 2 leash in section 2.
3d, No. 3 leash in section 3.
4th, No. 4 leash in section 4.
5th, No. 5 leash in section 1.
6th, No. 6 leash in section 2.
7th, No. 7 leash in section 3.
8th, No. 8 leash in section 4.
9th, No. 9 leash in section 1.

And so on. The threading of the harness is explained below the comber-board, l and m indicating the leash-strings; and warp-threads 1, 2, 3, 4, from leashes 1, 2, 3, 4, are indicated as threaded.

384 times 4 divisions make 1536 warp-threads.

XII. Tying-up of Jacquard Looms with Compound Harness attached.

Tying-up of Jacquard looms with extra compound harness, consists in applying two separate systems of harness in the loom. The warp-threads, after having passed through the Jacquard harness, are passed through harness in front. Each system of harness performs special duty, although they are both working the same warp. The Jacquard harness is used for forming the general design on a large scale; the second harness divides this pattern into detail, (twills, satins, or any other desired weave). The above tie-up is necessary in the manufacture of rich damasks and similar fabrics, where a large number of warp-ends is required, with a correspondingly small number of picks per inch. Suppose a damask fabric to contain 300 ends warp per inch, with only 75 picks per inch; or in the proportion of 4 to 1. Now, to employ this principle of making four ends warp equal to one filling, the size of the design would be produced in the fabric, but the richness, and also the fineness, of the face of the fabric would be entirely lost. To prevent this it should be the object of the designer to keep the fine warp-threads entirely on the surface, to interweave the proportion of ends varying between warp and filling (as in example above, four warp-threads) separately. This principle of textures requires the compound harness to be attached; or, in other words, a machine must be used which is capable of raising not only every alternate thread, but every third, fourth, or eighth thread, if required, for the formation of the body of the cloth.

Fig. LXVI. illustrates as plainly as possible the principle of tying-up to do this work, using a 100 Jacquard machine for figuring, comber-board threaded in three divisions, four heddles to each leash, eight compound harnesses.

In the tying-up of Jacquard harness four heddles to one leash are generally used, as illustrated at c, in Fig. LXVI.; each heddle containing one warp-thread. Fig. LXVII. shows the arrangement of these four warp-threads, when using only one heddle to each leash, but in which the mail contains four eyes. This method is less frequently employed. Instead of using a 100 machine, as in Fig. LXVI.,

A 200 machine (straight-through) will require   800 warp-threads for each division.
300 machine (straight-through) will require 1200 warp-threads for each division.
400 machine (straight-through) will require 1600 warp-threads for each division.
600 machine (straight-through) will require 2400 warp-threads for each division.
900 machine (straight-through) will require 3600 warp-threads for each division.
1200 machine (straight-through) will require 4800 warp-threads for each division.

To change the tie-up principle from the straight-through method to the point method, taking a 1200 machine using four heddles per harness-cord, 9600 warp-threads will be required for each division for repeat of pattern.

This little example plainly shows the great advantage of this method of tying-up looms for making the finest damasks, etc.

To explain the general method of this tie-up, commence with Fig. LXVI., which represents a 100 machine, three divisions, four heddles to one leash, eight compound harnesses.

It will not be necessary to explain the threading of the comber-board, as this is always done on the same plain principles. The four heddles of the first row deep of comber-board emerge below the board at the beginning of the first division, marked a, a´, a´´, a´´´. The first row deep in comber-board in the first division, and the last row deep in comber-board in the third division only are shown; but as these two rows also indicate the first and last rows in the Jacquard machine, and as the principle of a, a´, a´´, a´´´, and b, b´, b´´, b´´´, has to be observed in every one of these 75 rows deep in width of comber-board E´ to E´´ taken, it will explain the tie-up for the entire number. At c, in leash a, four distinct heddles are adjusted; the same thing is repeated in every one of the eight leashes extended in drawing below the comber-board, giving in return, thus: four heddles and three divisions in a 100 machine = 4 × 3 × 100, or 1200 warp-threads for the entire fabric.

Now, following the first heddle downwards on leash 1, a, c, marked on drawing, d, (indicated by dotted lines), No. 1 harness of the compound harness, H, is reached. The cross X on this harness indicates that the warp-thread drawn through mail fastened on heddle, d, must also be drawn through No. 1 harness; the next heddle from the same leash will reach No. 2 harness; and so on until No. 4 harness is taken up, which will finish No. 1 harness-cord of No. 1 leash in the first division. The second harness-cord, a´, will use harness 5, 6, 7, 8; the third harness-cord, a´´, will use harness 1, 2, 3, 4, over again, as used by a; the fourth harness-cord, a´´´, will use harness 5, 6, 7, 8, over again, as used by a´.

Continue in this manner until leash 100 in the first division on harness 5, 6, 7, 8, is finished. The second and third divisions strictly repeat the first.

Fig. LXIX. represents the side elevation for Fig. LXVI. In both of these drawings some of the letters and figures correspond, as follows: harness-cords a, a´, a´´, a´´´, in first row deep of comber-board, E, E´. H shows compound harness set 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8; figures 1, 2, 3, 4, on top of comber-board represent the first row deep from the front elevation in drawing.

New letters: B, the warp-beam; Z, the lease of the warp formed by rods, Z´ and Z´´; O, the distance between the Jacquard harness and compound harness set, H. D, the shed, as formed in loom when weaving. For illustration of this shed pick No. 7 in Fig. LXVIII., shows that leashes 2 and 3, or a´ and a´´, are raised at the same time. Leashes 1 and 4, or a and a´´´, are not raised.

The principle of forming the shed for picking the shuttle will be more particularly explained later on by Figs. LXX. to LXXV.

At c, in Fig. LXIX., the beginning of the shed is shown; also the last woven part of the fabric, c, c´, c´´, which is indicated as passing around the breast-beam, F. L, L´, L´´, L´´´, indicate leashes 1, 2, 3, 4, extending to the Jacquard machine towards neck-cords 1, 2, 3, 4.

Fig. LXX. represents a warp-thread forming the bottom part of a shed. Mail, L, and harness, H, occupy a position similar to that of mail and harness for warp-thread passing through No. 1 heddle of leash a, and harness 1 in Fig. LXIX.

Warp-thread No. 2, passing through leash a, and harness 2, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 4, passing through leash a, and harness 4, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 13, passing through leash a´´´, and harness 5, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 15, passing through leash a´´´, and harness 7, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 16, passing through leash a´´´, and harness 8, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.

Fig. LXXI. shows a warp-thread forming part of the top shed by raising the leash; hence mail, L, is shown raised. The compound harness is supposed to be resting, which allows the warp-thread to slide up to the height of the required size of shed. This figure illustrates plainly the following warp-threads in Fig. LXIX.

Warp-thread No. 5, passing through leash a´, and harness 5, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 7, passing through leash a´, and harness 7, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 8, passing through leash a´, and harness 8, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 9, passing through leash a´´, and harness 1, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 10, passing through leash a´´, and harness 2, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
Warp-thread No. 12, passing through leash a´´, and harness 4, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.

Fig. LXXII. illustrates the side view of a warp-thread where the hook of the Jacquard is not raised; hence, the mail remains in its resting place. Following the warp-thread towards c, the compound harness is shown raised, thus forming part of the top of a shed. This figure is designed to show the passage of the warp-thread through mail No. 3 of leash a, and harness No. 3, in Fig. LXIX.

Fig. LXXIII. illustrates a thread forming part of a lower shed. In the drawing the mail is raised, but at the same time the heddle of harness is lowered, compelling the thread to rest on the bottom of the lay. This figure is designed to show warp-thread passing through mail No. 6, of leash a´, and harness No. 6, in Fig. LXIX.

Fig. LXXIV. is a side view of a thread forming the upper part of a shed where mail and harness have been raised the same as in Fig. LXIX., the warp-thread passing through mail No. 11 of leash, a´´, and harness No. 3.

Fig. LXXV. illustrates mail not raised and harness down. This change is not necessary in Fig. IV.; the warp-thread forming the lower part of the shed.

In Figs. LXX. to LXXV. the following letters correspond with the same letters in Fig. LXIX.: Z´´, nearest lease-rod to Jacquard harness; D, shed for picking shuttle; C, starting point of shed or last woven place of fabric.

The Kind of Heddles Required for Compound Harness.

The eyes of these heddles are much longer than those of common heddles. They must be sufficiently long to allow the six movements illustrated in Fig. LXX. to LXXV., hence the height of these heddle eyes will influence the height of the shed.

Working the Compound Harness by a Separate Machine.

For working compound harness a separate small witch-loom is generally used, thus saving, to a great extent, the Jacquard cards. In this manner the ground may be easily altered without changing any cards, it being only necessary to change the small set of cards on the witch-loom controlling one repeat of the body weave for the harness. The number of picks for the harness can also be readily adjusted to one change in the Jacquard figure without disturbing the cards of any consequence. For example: in manufacturing a damask fabric, suppose four harness picks make one change of figure in the Jacquard machine, and it is necessary to reduce these four picks to one change of figure, on account of having to use some heavier filling, or other similar reason; this alteration can be easily made when using two separate machines.

Number of Compound Harness to Use.

Fig. LXVIII., p. 60, illustrates the 8-leaf satin combining filling and warp up in one design.

A few Different Weaves for Working Compound Harness.

Fig. LXXIX. is an example of warp and filling, binding in a 4-leaf twill. Both systems are illustrated for a clear understanding: [X] Fig. A, indicates the raising of the harness for forming the upper part of the shed; □ Fig. B, indicates the rotation of drawing warp-threads from the upper shed into the lower shed. Drawing-in draft is for 4-harness (straight).

XIII.—Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics.

Gauze fabrics are produced by a separate system of weaves, which have the peculiar characteristic of warp-threads not lying parallel to each other. One kind of this warp is called the “douping warp” or “whip-threads;” these are twisted around the ground-warp. The ground-threads, as well as the whip-threads, which work together, must be drawn into one dent.

Jacquard gauze can be worked in various ways; for example: One whip-thread against one or more ground-threads. More than one whip-thread against one or more ground-threads.

There are two methods of tying-up for gauze fabrics: 1st. A tie-up in which the doups are worked by one, two, three or four shafts in front of the Jacquard harness. 2d. A tie-up in which the gauze figuring is done all over the fabric, requiring each doup to be arranged for working separately. If the ground-threads and whip-threads are worked from the same Jacquard machine, the latter must be divided into two sections: 1st section for the ground-threads with ground heddles; 2d section for the whip-threads with standard heddles.

If a fabric contains the gauze in the form of a stripe, arranged one end ground and one end whip, the same number of hooks are required for the ground and whip-threads of each section, and an extra dead harness must be employed; but if this arrangement of one end ground and one end whip must form figures, then the ground and whip-threads must form the first section, and the whip-threads alone the second section. In this case the second section requires only half as many hooks as the first; and for the same reason, if we are forming figures with two ground-threads and one whip-thread, the first section will contain three times as many hooks as the second, etc. Very often two whip-threads are used for twisting, in which case they must be drawn together in the doup. If several whip and ground-threads are drawn into one reed they usually work independently at first on a regular weave; following this is the gauze weave formed by a certain number of whip-threads raised either on the left or right of the ground-threads contained in the same dent. This movement brings into operation the second section of the machine containing the harness-cords for the standard heddles. The technical terms for these various combinations are: single-thread gauze, double-thread gauze, triple-thread gauze, etc.

The tie-up most generally used requires two-thirds of the needles for ground heddles and one-third of the needles for standard heddles; hence, if using a 200 machine we find: 128 needles and hooks for the ground heddles, and 64 needles and hooks for the standard heddles. [See Fig. LXXXVII., p. 65.]

Thread the warp into the ground heddles in the same manner as a common straight-through tie-up. Then take the first left-hand thread of the warp and draw it through the doup. The next two warp-threads draw above the first one on the left-hand side of the same doup. These three warp-threads must be drawn together in one dent. After drawing the first pair in one dent, leave one, two, or more dents empty, according to the fabric. The 4th, 5th and 6th warp-threads, also each subsequent pair, are threaded the same as the first.

Figs. LXXXVIII. and LXXXIX. are designed for illustrating this point. The lingoes for the doups are about one-half the weight of those used for the ground heddles.

Fig. XC. represents a fancy gauze to be executed in this manner.

Fig. XCI. represents the threading of the harness for a gauze fabric: f, g, first and second warp-thread, over the doup; h, i, third and fourth, through the doup.

Figs. XCII. and XCIII. illustrate the two movements of the harness in the gauze weave.

Figs. XCIV. and XCV. illustrate the movements of the harness in the regular weave: a, b, represents the comber-board; c, the place where the doup is fastened to the dead harness; d, e, the standard heddle; f, g, h, i, the mails of the common heddles.

The following are the fourteen different movements that might be required in regular weaving. The figures show the number of threads up and the number down, thus: 1up3down equal first warp-thread up; second, third, and fourth down.

These fourteen different movements cover all the possible changes in regular weaving. The movement (7) illustrated in Fig. 8, in addition to forming the regular weave, is also necessary to the formation of the gauze weave.

These few explanations clearly show the great variety of effects possible for the designer; for he can figure with the regular method of weaving, and can also figure gauze weaving to exchange with regular weaving, forming a separate design on the fabric.

Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine.

Fig. XCVI. represents the sectional cut of one row across all the griffe-bars. The machine selected for the illustration is of the 12-row type. Jacquard machines of this description have two hooks to one needle; therefore in the drawing twenty-four hooks are represented. Two griffes are provided, each working every alternate hook.

In Fig. XCVI. the sectional cut of both griffes is shown, and in Fig. XCVII. the top view of both griffes; the first set is represented shaded, the second black. The former requires hooks Nos. 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, and the latter Nos. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24.

This arrangement permits either hook to be lifted separately by the griffes, and a corresponding elevation of the leash. As these griffes work in opposition, one descends while the other ascends; this motion prevents the leash from dropping the entire length of the cords, since the ascending griffe catches it at half distance as the two griffes pass each other. In this operation the shed is never entirely closed, and a corresponding gain in speed is attained. It will thus be seen that the “double lift” single cylinder has great advantages over the ordinary machine. Of course, the warp-thread must make its complete journeys up and down when called for by the design; but when once up, it need not be brought down until absolutely required by the pattern. The warp is thus subjected to less friction in working, and it is possible to use yarns with less twist and obtain good results.

The advantages arising from not closing the shed may be seen in the following example of a warp-thread working on an 8-leaf satin, in which seven picks are up in succession.

By the single lift machine this warp-thread must travel seven times up and seven times down, thus closing the shed absolutely seven times, with a corresponding wear and tear. The double lift single cylinder arrangement does not require the warp-thread to make these seven complete journeys to the “race-board” of the lay, but instead it makes seven half trips. The saving may be shown by the following analysis: Single lift machine, warp-thread, seven picks up in succession, in 8-leaf satin (warp-face) requiring fourteen complete movements.

Double lift single cylinder machine requiring for the same effect:

Showing the utility of the two machines to be to each other as 8 to 14, or 4 to 7.