The monastery of the Redfriars at Luffness is believed to have been founded by Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, in 1286. The remains of the church, which consist for the most part of foundations, are situated in the private grounds of Luffness House, not far from the junction of the Peffer Burn with Aberlady Bay, and about half a mile from the village of Aberlady. The church (Fig. 711) has consisted of nave and choir, without aisles, the choir being internally 49 feet and the nave 42 feet in length, and both about 19 feet 6 inches wide. Both show the bases of buttresses at the east and west ends, and there seems to have been a wall between the nave and choir, which possibly sustained the rood loft. In the north wall of the choir and near the east end (Fig. 712) are the remains of an arched recess, which contains a much worn effigy, supposed to be that of the founder.
A pointed doorway leading to the choir adjoins the monument (Fig. 713), and the altar steps are seen rising beyond it. Part of the pavement still remains at the east end, and in the centre is a flat monumental slab (Fig. 714), much decayed, but on which can still be made out the following inscription:—“(Hic jacet) honorabilis vir Kentigernus Hepburn (dominus?) de Wauchtoun;” and the sacred monogram “I.N.R.I.” on the upper part of the cross. Kentigern Hepburn was son and heir apparent of David Hepburn of Wauchton. He received, on 5th September 1498, a charter from his father of certain lands—viz., the lands of Quhiltinfuld in Edinburgh, half a plougate in Cockburnspath and lands of Elstanefurd, with superiority of lands of Towly in Fife and Elstanefurd. He also held, from his father, a charter of the lands and barony of Luffness. He married Margaret Lauder (see Great Seal, 1424-1513). The arms on the shield in the centre of the cross are those of the Hepburns. The style of the slab would indicate that of the fifteenth century.
About four miles south of Forres, and in the middle of an extensive forest, not far from Altyre House, stand the ruins of an ancient first pointed church. The parish of Altyre belonged formerly to the parsonage of Dallas, but in 1659 it was disjoined from Dallas and added to the parish of Rufford. The ruins of the church, which stand in a dense thicket of bushes, are in fair preservation. The building is very plain, consisting of a simple oblong chamber (Fig. 715) about 50 feet in length by 15 feet in width internally. There appear to have been no buttresses originally, but one has been added at the north-east angle (Fig. 716), and
a very massive prop has been built at the north-west angle, the ground on the north being a bank sloping downwards from the church. There are two doorways opposite one another near the west end, one in the north wall and one in the south wall. In the east wall there is a two-light window with simple branched mullion. The side windows are plain lancets, there being two in the north wall and three in the south wall. The west wall is blank. The walls and gables are still standing. Although the church may be classed as first pointed, it is evidently of the latest period of that style.
This chapel, standing in the centre of its churchyard, is situated at the east end of the lonely loch of Strathbeg, not far from Rattray Head, a place well known and feared by sailors. It measures internally 45 feet from east to west by 18 feet 9 inches from north to south (Fig. 717). The gables are nearly entire, with considerable portions of the side walls. Almost all the stone dressings within reach have, as usual, been torn out for common purposes, so that the building is in a tottering condition, and is greatly robbed of its interest; but enough remains to show that it is a genuine church of the thirteenth century. It is built of rough angular stones, with red freestone dressings. In the east wall (Fig. 718) there are three round-arched and widely splayed windows, the centre one being the highest and widest, viz., 2 feet wide and, according to the new statistical account (which appears to be reliable), 11 feet high, and the other two are each 7 feet high. The gable itself is said to be 32 feet high in its present condition. There appear to have been north and south doors near the west end, and no other openings in the side walls. In the west gable there is a window 8 or 10 feet above the ground, and from 3 to 4 feet wide. The church has thus been entirely lighted from the east and west ends. It is needless to say that there are no remains of any of the usual internal features, the polished stones of such having been carried off, forming too strong a temptation to be resisted.
The earliest notice of this chapel is between the years 1214 and 1233, when William Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, gives certain lands for the yearly payment of two stones of wax, afterwards given by the Earl “in free alms for ever to the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the town of Rettre in Buchan.”[109] Again, in 1451, the chamberlain of the crown lands in Buchan makes a deduction of six shillings, “paid to the Chaplin of Rattre.” And in 1460 King James III. confirms a charter for a yearly payment of five pounds and the third part of a stone of wax to the chapel of the “Beate Marie Virginis de Ratreff.”[110]
The parish of Abdie is situated in the north of Fife, about two miles south from Newburgh. It was originally called the parish of Lindores, but that name was appropriated by the abbey, which was also founded in the same parish. The loch of Lindores, on the south bank of which the ruins of the church of Abdie stand, still retains the ancient name. The church was of much earlier date than the abbey, and Mr. Laing[111] states that there can be little doubt that the church of Lindores (now Abdie) was of Culdee origin, and was one of the earliest religious settlements in the country. The name Lindores signifies the “church by the water,” a peculiarly appropriate designation in this instance. “In a writing of the thirteenth century on a fly-leaf of a volume preserved in the Imperial Library, Paris, it is recorded that the consecration of ‘Ebedyn’ church by David de Bernhame, Bishop of St. Andrews, took place on the 5th day of September A.D. 1242, a date which corresponds with the style of its architecture.”[112]
From the foundation charter of the abbey of Lindores we find that the first bequest it received was the church of Lindores, and the lands belonging to it.
The existing structure consists (Fig. 719) of a plain oblong chamber, which has been greatly rebuilt, but part of the walls of which may be of the thirteenth century. The building measures internally 88 feet in length by 17 feet 6 inches in width. The east end or chancel is the most ancient part. It is about 30 feet in length, and has first pointed buttresses and small lancet windows in the side walls. One of the lancets remains in the south wall (Fig. 720), and two in the north wall (Fig. 721). There is also a pointed priests’ doorway in the south side wall. The three pointed windows in the east end seem to have been altered. The broad
skew, with cross on the gable, and its remarkable footstone are restorations. The nave or western portion of the church, which is of the same width as the chancel, has been rebuilt at different times, and much of it shows in its windows, buttresses, &c., work of a very late period, probably the sixteenth century. There is a south porch near the west end, with a stone bench on each side. The entrance is by an elliptic arch, with plain splay on edge. The belfry is plain, but picturesque. A wing or north aisle has been added at a late date. It is called the Denmiln aisle, and was erected by Sir Robert Balfour in 1661, and bears his arms and the date over the doorway. In the choir there is a slab with a fine cross carved on it, and also a recumbent effigy (see Fig. 721), considerably worn away by the weather.
“The Isle” is a rocky promontory, formerly an island, but now connected with the mainland at low tide. It stands near the south end of the main part of Wigtonshire, about two miles north from Burrow Head and three miles south-east of Whithorn. On this isle stand the ruins of an ancient chapel. It is roughly built, with walls 2 feet 8 inches in thickness, and, from its pointed arches, appears to be of first or second pointed date. The structure (Fig. 722) measures 37 feet 6 inches in length by 22
feet in width externally, and has originally been very exactly measured off. The doorway has been in the south wall, but it is now broken down and the freestone dressings removed. There has been a tall pointed window in each of the north and south walls, and a similar window, though apparently wider, in the east end wall. The dressings have been torn out, but the pointed sconsion arches still remain (Figs 723 and 724). There is a small square ambry in the north wall, and a similar, but larger, one in the south wall. The exterior is quite plain, and without buttresses or break of any kind.
The simple bowl of the font has been recovered, after having served for generations as a trough to bruise whins in for food for horses (Fig. 725). It is now preserved at Whithorn.
Much discussion has taken place regarding this chapel, some supposing it to be the original Candida Casa of St. Ninian. The style of the structure puts that view out of the question; but it is still thought by some—amongst others by Mr. T. S. Muir[114]—that the isle was a much more likely place for St. Ninian to fix his first settlement on than at Whithorn, where he would be in the midst of a probably not very friendly people. In that case the Chapel on “The Isle” would be the successor of the original Candida Casa. But there is nothing at either place to determine with any degree of certitude the site of the first Christian edifice in Scotland.
A plan and detailed drawings of this first pointed chapel are given in connection with the description of the castle,[115] but the general view of the interior (Fig. 726) is now illustrated, in order more fully to explain the description above referred to. The ruin is densely covered with ivy, but the jambs of the chancel arch, enriched with rows of dog-tooth ornament, are distinctly visible (see Section). The arch is now built up, and the chancel is converted into a tomb-house. A section of the window jambs and shaft between is also shown in Fig. 726. This edifice is one of the few examples of enriched first pointed work to be found in the Western Highlands and Islands.
Another very interesting specimen of a first pointed church exists at Skipness, Kintyre, which is also described and illustrated in The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland.[116]
A ruin, situated about three to four miles west from Dalbeattie. The original name was Kil-Ennan, that of Buittle being comparatively modern. A notice of the church occurs as early as 1275, when it was granted by Devorgilla to the monks of Sweetheart; and on the 16th July 1381, Pope Benedict XIII. confirms a charter by Thomas, Bishop of Galloway, granting the Church of St. Colmanel of Butyll to the Abbey of Sweetheart. We are informed that a new church was erected before the Reformation. This was, doubtless, part of the present ivy-clad ruin. The church and lands were annexed to the Crown in 1587.[117]
The building is peculiar in form (Fig. 727), the choir being wider than the nave—the former measuring 26 feet 6 inches, and the latter 22 feet in width over the walls. The choir is about 30 feet and the nave 44 feet in length internally. The walls and gables are well preserved (Fig. 728), but the whole building is so completely covered with ivy that any architectural features which may exist are concealed. There is a pointed chancel arch between the nave and choir, and the latter part of the church is lighted with three lancet windows in the east gable.
To judge from the appearance of the building the nave and its belfry were, doubtless, the parts erected shortly before the Reformation, and the choir is the more ancient portion. It is probably of first pointed date.
The straight lintelled doorway in the east end, under the three pointed windows, is part of the work done in Presbyterian times.
Of this ancient and important abbey there now remains only one doorway (Fig. 729). The abbey stood on a level piece of ground at some height above the rocky bed of the River Dee, about two miles from Kirkcudbright. The situation is a fine one, and the modern manse is yet surrounded with splendid old trees. The abbey was founded by Fergus, first Lord of Galloway, in the twelfth century, and occupied by Premonstratensian Monks from Cokersand Abbey, in Lancashire. The abbot sat in the Parliament summoned at Brigham, in 1290, to settle the succession to the Crown of Scotland. Robert I. and David II. both enriched it with endowments.
In 1503 James IV. appointed Damiane, an Italian, to be abbot. He was an alchemist, and professed to be able to fly; but in endeavouring to carry out his scheme from the walls of Stirling Castle, his wings gave way, and he fell and broke his leg.[118]
The abbey was annexed to the Crown in 1587. Symson mentions that in 1684 the steeple and part of the walls were standing. It is said that the present church which adjoins is erected on part of the walls of the old abbey.
The part of the abbey which contains the ancient door has evidently been refitted as a church in post-Reformation times, and has a gable with a plain belfry.
The old doorway has some features (Fig. 730) which make it doubtful whether it belongs to the first pointed style, or is only one of the reproductions in imitation of that style which were common in the time of James VI.
The ruins of the ancient parish church of Cockpen stand in a burial ground about one mile south from the modern parish church, which is situated about a mile from Dalhousie Railway Station. The walls of the old church are in tolerable preservation, but they have been so much altered, probably soon after the Reformation, so as to render them suitable for Presbyterian worship, that the original features are almost obliterated. The structure (Fig. 731) is a simple oblong, 65 feet 6 inches in length by 15 feet 2 inches in width. There are some remains of narrow lancet windows at the east end, but they have been much altered, one of them being widened to form an outside doorway to a gallery. The side windows have been similarly altered and new square-headed windows inserted, so that almost all trace of the original features is lost. The ruins are also so completely covered with a dense growth of ivy that the details of the architecture cannot be properly investigated. Some burial vaults have been thrown out from the side walls, probably in the sixteenth century. From the scanty materials available it may be inferred that the original church was a structure of the thirteenth century.
This structure, which is still in use as the parish church, lies in the valley of the Tyne, about four miles south from Tranent. It consists (Fig. 732) of a long narrow building measuring about 83 feet in length by about 23 feet in width over the walls, with a western tower, not quite square in plan. On the north side of the chancel there is a chapel of first pointed work, and adjoining it on the west a seventeenth century aisle. Taking the chapel on the north side first as being architecturally the most important, it measures in the inside about 22 feet 8 inches long by about 10 feet wide. On the north side (Fig. 733) it is divided into two bays, and had originally shallow buttresses of 18 inch projection, terminating with a gabled top. The buttresses have been enlarged at a later date. Between the buttresses there were large pointed windows, probably once filled with tracery, but which is now destroyed. There is another wide window in the east end, which has met with the same treatment. In the west end there is a high window of two lights, with a pierced opening in the apex under the arch. The mouldings round the windows consist of thin reed-like beads, separated by deep narrow hollows. The labels round the outside terminate as shown in Fig. 734. Over the buttresses there is a set-off on the wall (see Fig. 733), and above this one deep course of masonry, carrying a corbel course of small size, decorated with human and animals’ heads. The top course and set-off are closed in at each end with a large skew stone, on which there is wrought the original start of the sloping gable at a slightly lower level
than the existing gable (Fig. 735), showing that there has been some change made here, the existing skew puts of gables not being original. The north wall is bent outwards considerably. It is not unlikely that the chapel was originally vaulted in stone, and, with the view of strengthening it, the shallow buttresses have been enlarged as indicated. The wide opening into the church shown on the Plan was afterwards made, and the vault, thus losing its support on that side, would be taken down. As a confirmation of the opinion that this chapel was vaulted we find[119] that the roof was at one time covered with flagstones. These, owing to their weight, are generally found only on vaulted buildings, as at Borthwick and numerous other churches. From the appearance of the flat arch of this opening it seems to be of later work than the chapel, and on the east side of the ingoing there are the remains of what appear to have been the jambs of a doorway. The chapel would thus originally be separated from the church by a solid wall with a door of communication, and what we have called a chapel may have been the sacristy. This separating wall, it will be observed from the Plan, is much thicker than the buttressed north wall, and, doubtless, was so made for the purpose of resisting the thrust of the vault.
Although the church adjoining appears to be mainly a building of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it undoubtedly occupies the site of an earlier church, known to have existed at Pencaitland in the twelfth century. Possibly portions of this earlier church are incorporated in the existing walls, and it is not unlikely from the narrowing of the east end on the north side (see Plan) that a chancel arch may have existed. Over the tower doorway there is the date 1631, with the initials of the incumbent, John Oswald, who probably built the tower. About the same time the north-west aisle was built. It contains some details resembling those to be seen at Wyntoun House, in the immediate neighbourhood. In the Caledonia, Vol. II. p. 527, Chalmers mentions that Pencaitland was possessed by Everard de Pencaithlan, and that he probably obtained the lands from William the Lion (1165-1214), as he granted the church of his manor of Pencaithlan to Kelso, with its tithes and other rights, in pure alms for the salvation of his lord, King William. After 1309 it is not mentioned among the churches belonging to Kelso. The manor was forfeited during the War of Succession, and was granted by King Robert the Bruce to Robert de Lawder; but soon after it appears in the hands of Sir John Maxwell, younger brother of Sir Eustace Maxwell of Caerlaverock, who granted to Dryburgh the advowson of the church with an annuity from his lands of Pencaitland. This was confirmed by William (Landal), the Bishop of St. Andrews, in 1343, and by David II. two years later. A view of the tower and west end of the church, with some details, will be found in The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland.[120]
Scarcely a vestige remains of the old Church of Gogar, but the burial ground still survives. It is situated about five to six miles west from Edinburgh. The church was ancient, but after the Reformation the parish was divided amongst the three adjoining ones. The bowl of the old font still exists in the churchyard. It is very simple in design (Fig. 736), and would appear from its mouldings to be of first pointed date. The stand on which it is set is modern.
An account of this abbey is given in The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland,[121] in connection with its occupation by the English, in the time of Henry VIII., as a fortification. But being an important ecclesiastical structure, and in some respects a unique one, it is thought desirable to give it a place in this volume, with some additional particulars and illustrations.
The Island of Inchcolm, or Æmonia, as it was originally called, is believed to have formed the cradle of religion in the East of Scotland, as the more famous Iona did in the West; and it is thought that the first seeds of religion were implanted in it by St. Columba himself. In early times the founders of Christianity loved to establish themselves on islands, and in the Frith of Forth ecclesiastical remains are found not only at Inchcolm, but also on Inchkeith, the Bass, the Isle of May, and the Island of Fidra.
Like Iona, the Island of Inchcolm became especially celebrated as a place of burial, and large sums were paid for the privilege of interment on the island. This circumstance is referred to in Macbeth,[122] in connection with the defeat of “Sweno, Norway’s King”—
The island appears to have been inhabited up to the twelfth century by a Columban hermit. Fordun narrates that the abbey owes its foundation to Alexander I., who, in 1123, was driven ashore on the island by a storm, where he and his followers were maintained for three days by the hermit who then made Inchcolm his retreat, and who divided with them his scanty fare of shellfish and the milk of one cow. In recognition of his safe delivery, Alexander founded and endowed a monastery, and brought to it Augustinian Canons from the abbey he had established at Scone. The monastery continued to prosper, and, in 1216, received a large addition to its possessions from Allan Mortimer, proprietor of the domain of Aberdour, on the mainland adjoining, who purchased the right of interment in the church by bestowing on the abbey one half of his estate.
It is from this period that the existing buildings began to be erected, and the construction probably went on for a considerable length of time thereafter. In 1265 Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, built the new choir at his own expense. He was High Chamberlain in 1255-57, and, at his death in 1272, his heart was laid, according to Father Hay, in the wall of the new choir.
Although the island position of the monastery made it usually a safe retreat, it did not protect it from the attacks of the English fleet during the War of Independence. In 1335 it was harried by the English, who carried off the precious chalices and censers, crosses and chandeliers, relics, vestments, and images. The abbey was again attacked in 1336, and in 1384 the fleet of Richard II. plundered it and set it on fire. Some repairs were, doubtless, required thereafter, and we find that in 1402 the chapel of the Blessed Virgin, adjoining the south side of the choir, was founded by the Prior, Richard of Aberdeen, and Thomas Crawford, Canon of Inchcolm.
In 1418 Walter Bower, the editor and continuator of the Scotichronicon of Fordun, was appointed abbot, and carried out his literary work in the abbey.
As the period of the Reformation approached, the monastery seems to have fallen off, and in 1543 Abbot Henry resigned office, and the abbey was deserted.
After the battle of Pinkie, in 1547, the Duke of Somerset occupied Inchcolm as the best post for commanding the Frith of Forth.
The lands of West Aberdour were acquired from Abbot Nicholas by James Stewart of Ochiltree, who became Commendator of the Abbey; and his second son, James Stewart, Lord Doune, was, in 1611, created a peer, with the title of Lord St. Colm. He married the daughter of the Regent Murray, and the lands were united to the estate of the Earl of Moray, who thus became proprietor of Inchcolm.
The island is about half a mile in length, and lies about one mile and a-half from the harbour of Aberdour, on the north side of the Frith of Forth. It consists of an elevated portion at each end, with a low lying isthmus between them, on which the abbey is built, the buildings extending across the full breadth of the land.
Notwithstanding the many attacks and injuries the structure has sustained, its remote situation has preserved the monastic buildings in a more complete state than in most of our old abbeys. The edifice, as it now stands (Fig. 737), consists of the usual cloister court (about 45 feet square), having the church on the north side and the chapter house beyond the east range. The monastery has the remarkable peculiarity of having had the buildings surrounding the cloister constructed so as to contain on the ground floor nothing but the cloister walk, and on the upper floor, above the ambulatory, the refectory, dormitory, and other domestic apartments of the canons. The cellars, stores, and other offices have been erected in a wing to the south-east. A detached building to the north of the church, now in ruins, was possibly the infirmary. To the west of the monastery lay the garden, which is enclosed with a wall. The well, which is sunk on the south of the garden, is built round with ashlar, is 50 feet deep, and contains a supply of good fresh water. A strong retaining wall runs along the north side of the buildings next the sea, and encloses the monastery on that side.
A very interesting relic of the original eremitical occupation of the island still survives at the north-west angle of the garden. This is a small cell covered with a pointed vault, the true importance of which was first pointed out by the late Sir James Y. Simpson,[123] who drew attention to it as the cell of the Columban recluse who occupied Inchcolm at or before the unexpected visit of Alexander I. It consists (Fig. 738) of an irregular stone building, measuring internally 15 feet 7 inches in length on the north side and 17 feet on the south side, by a width of 6 feet at the east end and 5 feet at the west end. The height from the floor to the spring of the arch is 4 feet 8 inches, and to the crown of the arch 8 feet. The cell is covered with a pointed barrel vault, the arch of which is composed of radiating stones, and is covered with stone flags, which form a curved roof on the exterior. The form of the arch indicates that the vault is not of the most ancient type of Celtic building, in which the arch consisted not of radiating, but of overlapping, stones pushed out horizontally over each other till they met with a flat stone in the centre.[124] The doorway, however, which is at the south-west angle, presents on the interior some appearance of the latter form of construction (Fig. 739),[125] while on the exterior (Fig. 740) it is formed with a round radiating arch. There is one small square-headed window in the east end, 13 inches in width and 24 inches in height, the jambs of which are in single stones, without moulding or chamfer. In the south wall there is a rude ambry, 12 inches wide and 17 inches deep.
This cell has, doubtless, been often repaired (indeed, it requires some repair now), and it is possible that the vault and stone roof may not be the original ones; but the walls are certainly ancient, and the structure is very interesting from its being one of the very few relics of the Columban church which survive in the eastern part of Scotland.
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Fig. 739.—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Horizontal Arch of the Door, as seen from within |
Fig. 740.—The Abbey of Inchcolm. Exterior Arch of the Doorway. |
As above pointed out, the abbey buildings are of different periods, and have evidently been subjected to several alterations at different times. The church appears to be the oldest part of the edifice. It has originally consisted (see Fig. 737) of a nave, internally 35 feet in length by 20 feet in width; a central tower, 24 feet long by 22 feet wide
externally; and a choir to the east of the tower, of which a fragment survives, but which was subsequently superseded by a new choir. The church was lofty as compared with its width, as is apparent from the high pointed arches (Figs. 741 and 742) in the east and west walls of the tower. It is not now discoverable how the nave and choir were roofed, but from the absence of buttresses, and the built water tables in the tower with steep slope, the roof was most probably of timber. Over the arch leading from the tower to the choir there is a doorway (see Fig. 741), which gave access to a chamber in the roof. The church was entered from the cloister by a high pointed doorway (Fig. 743) in the south wall of the tower. Adjoining this, in the south wall, a wheel stair led to the upper stories of the tower. The nave has been much altered, but still retains along the north side an early trigonal string course. The south doorway and other details of the tower also indicate a date early in the thirteenth century (see the details of the doorway in Fig. 750). The tower (see Figs. 741 and 742) rises to two stories above the church roof, and contains windows, each having two smaller arches enclosed within a round arch, and having the spandrils pierced with simple quatrefoil openings. The parapet is supported by first pointed corbels (Fig. 744). In each of the north and south walls of the tower there was originally, at the level of the church, a single pointed lancet window, the upper part of which has in each case been preserved, although greatly altered at a later date. The upper part of the south window is visible in Fig. 743; and a similar portion of the north window is preserved over the door to the transept. The tower had simple buttresses at the angles, one of which is still preserved on the south side (see Fig. 743), where it has been incorporated with the later cloisteral structures, while the other buttresses have been altered. A fragment of the original choir also still survives in a portion of the south wall, which has been incorporated with the later building of the dormitory to the south. This fragment still retains, though built up, the plain round arch of a small window, and its large, round sconsion arch—the former now looking into the dormitory (Fig. 745), and the latter being visible in the interior of the choir (see Fig. 741). This window is, doubtless, of the period of the tower and nave. It has formed part of the exterior south wall of the choir, thus showing that the space opposite it was open, and that the dormitory, which is on the first floor, and blocks it up, has been added at a later period.