the south aisle. Two of these windows, that over the doorway and the one to the west of it, are circular headed, and have a Norman character in their nook shafts and cushion caps. These windows are, however,
restorations, probably constructed in imitation of Norman windows which existed there originally. It will be observed that the inner order of the arch contains two reprises wrought on the stone, which were evidently the ends of two simple pieces of tracery springing from a central mullion. This form of design shows that the construction was undoubtedly of a late period. Besides, the sconsions of these windows are wrought with an obtuse nook containing a shaft, so as to correspond with the other first pointed windows of the south aisle. It is not improbable that the choir was built before the nave, and was of Norman work. This supposition may account for the Norman work found in the first bay of the nave, which may have been erected in connection with the choir and crossing.
The oldest part of the nave, after the south-east doorway, is the wall of the north aisle (Fig. 484). The responds opposite the piers are very bold. Each consists of a central shaft, with sharp edge to the front, and a round shaft on each side of it. The responds have rounded abaci and caps all richly carved with foliage, and a moulded band in the centre. The lower story of the wall contains an arcade of interlacing arches springing from single shafts, the caps of which have square abaci and very rich foliage (Fig. 485). The arch mouldings are flat, and contain a quantity of small nail-head ornament between the rolls. The windows above the arcade are single lancets—one in each bay (Fig. 486.) On the exterior the lower part of the wall is
plain, and each lancet has a pair of nook shafts, with simple cap, having a square abacus. The arch head is in two orders, both splayed, the outer order having the splay enriched with a series of plain ball
ornaments. In the interior (see Fig. 484) these windows show a plain splayed ingoing, the inner sconsion being formed into an obtuse nook, containing a bold shaft, with cap spreading its foliage widely so as to fill up the obtuse angle. The arch contains bold first pointed mouldings.
The south wall of the south aisle (Fig. 487) is designed in a similar manner to the above, but the details are different and of a rather later character. The responds, although bold, are different from those of the north wall, the shafts being all round, and the centre shaft is separated from the side shafts by a square member, having the angle chamfered. The caps have the same round abacus and bold foliage as those of the north side. The lower story contains a wall arcade, having single pointed arches, with first pointed mouldings. The shafts are free, and the richly foliaged caps (Fig. 488) have round and square abaci. The windows over the arcade correspond generally to those in the north wall; but being above the cloister roof, they are short externally, and the sill is deeply
sloped on the inside. The windows are all pointed, except those of the two east bays already mentioned. The obtuse nooks for the shafts on the sconsions of the pointed windows are repeated in the two round-headed east windows. The lower part of the exterior of the south wall running westwards from the Norman doorway (Fig. 489) is arcaded with a series of large pointed arches, each enclosing five smaller pointed arches, and having a plain wall space between the large and small arches. The caps of these arcades are all of early first pointed work. The one shown in Fig. 490 is of peculiar design, having probably been worked on at some period. Fig. 491 shows one of the caps of the triple shaft supporting the springing of the large and small arches. The above large arches were, doubtless, the wall arches for a groined roof over the cloister walk; but whether that vault was ever built it is now impossible to say. The south aisle is the only portion of the edifice which retains its vaulting (see Fig. 487). This is of a very simple character, consisting of transverse ribs and diagonal ribs. The vaulting of the north aisle has apparently been similar.
The main arcade of the nave (Fig. 492) has consisted of eight bays. Those of the south side still stand, but on the north side only two shattered piers survive. The piers are of the simplest form of clustered columns, each containing a three-quarter round shaft on the four cardinal angles, with two nook shafts between. The shafts are all crowned with richly foliaged caps, having rounded abaci. The arch mouldings consist of rounds and hollows, all deeply marked. From the cap of the main pier springs a triple vaulting shaft, which runs up through the triforium and receives the springing of the vaulting ribs on plain bell-caps some feet below the string course under the clerestory. The triforium is divided into two arches in each bay by a single central shaft, springing from a corbel over the apex of each arch of the main arcade, and running up to the string course beneath the clerestory. This would appear to indicate that the vaulting was sex-partite, which view is confirmed by the direction in which the surviving portions of the groins point.
Each arch of the triforium (see Fig. 492) is acutely pointed, and contains two smaller acutely pointed arches within it, each of which has an inner trefoiled arch. These arches all spring from single round shafts, with plain round caps arranged to receive them. The tympanum of the large arch is pierced with a quatrefoil or trefoil. All the mouldings are of a bold first pointed character. The triforium, no doubt, contained the usual passage in the thickness of the wall, which would tend to weaken the structure. To counteract that tendency, as may be seen from the south (Fig. 493), strong saving arches have been introduced to carry the chief pressure across from main pier to main pier. A similar strengthening arch exists in the outer wall of the triforium gallery at Amiens Cathedral.
The west end of the edifice has contained the finest work of the building. The west wall, with its splendid doorway between the two western towers (Fig. 494), must have presented as bold and ornate a piece of architecture as was to be found in Scotland.
The west front is now greatly shorn of its glory, but the portions which remain only tend to increase the regret for what is gone. As already mentioned, the south-west tower was removed to allow of the palace being erected, and even the western doorway is encroached on by
the palace wall. A portion of the south-west tower is still visible in the interior, and contains a doorway. The upper part of the west end (Figs. 492 and 494) was reconstructed by Charles I. in 1633. It contains two nondescript windows of seventeenth century Gothic, with an inscription between them, which events have not confirmed, viz.:—“He shall build ane House for my name and I will stablish the Throne of his kingdom for ever. Basilicam hanc Carolus Rex Optimus instavravit 1633.” The tympanum of the doorway has also been altered at this time, and an oaken lintel introduced, containing a shield, with the initials of Charles I.
The western doorway (see Fig. 495) has been a beautiful specimen of first pointed work. The jambs contained on each side free shafts, alternating larger and smaller. The caps were beautifully carved with foliage, and surmounted with rounded abaci. They had also a central band. The arch orders were very richly carved with running foliage of different designs, separated by plain mouldings and dog-tooth enrichments. The tympanum contained a series of small arches and shafts, resting on a lintel carved with angels’ heads (Fig. 496). The interior of the doorway (see Fig. 492) was also unusually rich, having shafts in the jambs, with carved caps and large dog-tooth enrichment in the label.
The north-west tower (see Fig. 494) is about 24 feet square externally. The west side is ornamented with two tiers of arcades. The lower arcade (Fig. 497) contains five pointed arches, with a trefoiled arch within each. These rest on triple shafts, with carved caps and rounded abaci. Over each shaft and between the arches there is a circle containing a boldly carved Norman head. This feature is unique, and its effect is fine. The upper arcade (Fig. 498) consists of three larger arches, each containing two smaller arches, and all resting on shafts with carved and rounded caps. The shields in the larger arches are pierced with bold quatrefoils. Two circles occur in the spandrils over the arches, but they do not now contain heads.
The same design is continued round the south side of the tower and along the west wall of the nave as far as the main doorway, but the north and east sides of the tower are plain. Above the two arcades the tower contains a large two-light window (see Fig. 494) on the north, east, and west sides. The jambs are lofty, and each contains two round shafts (see Fig. 498), with splays between, ornamented with plain balls similar to those of
the windows in the north wall. The caps are carved and have square abaci. The large outer arch of each window is of square section and perfectly plain, having only a small chamfer on the edge, and a label moulding. Each window is divided into two openings by a single central shaft, having a carved cap and broad square abacus, on which rest the two plain pointed arches of the inner openings. The shield above is pierced
with a bold quatrefoil. The jambs and central shaft have a moulded band in the middle of their height, and the windows are built up solid to that level, one of the mouldings of the band being carried across as a cornice; but this is probably a late insertion. On each external angle of the tower a large nook shaft is carried up, and finished with a cap on top and base at bottom.
As above mentioned, the two western piers of the crossing (see Fig. 493) are still standing. They consist of shafts similar to those of the main piers of the nave, but considerably larger, and are carried up to the same height as the vaulting shafts of the nave, where they have similar caps and a bold pointed arch thrown across the nave. Within this arch there has been erected, in modern times, a large traceried window. The spaces below the window and across the side aisles have been built up with fragments of the demolished structure, and a window is thus formed at the east end of each aisle.
During the fifteenth century the church has evidently undergone a thorough repair. It is thought that this was undertaken by Abbot Crawford, who presided over the abbey from about 1460 to 1483. The work executed at this time consisted of the addition of seven buttresses on the north side and several buttresses on the south side of the aisles. Those on the north side (see Fig. 486) are large, and may either enclose the old buttresses, or have been substituted for them. They have a set-off near the centre, above which each contains an elaborately ornamented and canopied niche. Beneath and above the niche there are carved panels which have contained angels and shields, with coats of arms. The arms of Abbot Crawford are said to have been carved on the panels, but they are now too much decayed to be distinguishable.
Above the upper panels the buttresses are continued with several set-offs, and finished with a small square pinnacle. The pinnacles have been crocheted and terminated with a carved finial, but they are now greatly wasted away. There were, doubtless, flying arches from the above buttresses to the clerestory (see their springing in Fig. 484), but they must have fallen with the roof.
A somewhat elaborate north doorway (see Fig. 486) has been introduced, in a style similar to that of the buttresses, in the second bay from the west tower. The arch is semicircular, and has an ogee canopy. There are small niches above the arch on each side which contained statues, now demolished. This doorway was probably constructed by Abbot Crawford at the same date as the buttresses.
A series of buttresses was also erected about the same time on the south side of the fabric. It is believed, however, that these buttresses are partly old, or are on old foundations. In order not to interfere with the cloister walk, which ran along next the south wall, and where it would have been inconvenient to have any projections, the buttresses were carried in the form of flying arches over the top of the cloister roof. At the clerestory level (see Fig. 493) flying arches, similar to those on the north side, rested against the upper portions of buttresses and pinnacles introduced between the windows. On the outside of the cloister walk the flying arch abutted upon oblong masses of masonry, which, probably, at one time were finished with pinnacles, but these no longer exist. Fig. 499 shows the lower part of the eastmost of these buttresses, from which it is evident that the outer enclosure of the cloister walk was connected with them, and extended as an open arcade between them.
Abbot Crawford was succeeded by Robert Bellenden, who presented the abbey with many costly gifts. Amongst these were the bells, a great brass font, and a chalice of gold. He further completed the restoration of the fabric begun by Abbot Crawford by covering the roof with lead. This took place before 1528.
In 1539 the office of commendator was bestowed on Robert, natural son of James V., while still an infant.
The “great brass font” was carried off by Sir Richard Lee, an officer of Hertford’s army, in 1544, and taken to St. Alban’s Abbey. It was afterwards sold for old metal.
The brass lectern of the abbey seems also to have fallen into Sir Richard Lee’s hands, and was by him presented to the parish church of St. Stephen’s, at St. Alban’s, where it still stands. It is a handsome lectern of the usual form, having an eagle with outstretched wings to receive the volume. It contains a shield with a lion rampant and a crozier, with the inscription, “Georgius Crichton, Episcopus, Dunkeldensis.”[34] Before becoming bishop, Crichton was Abbot of Holyrood, 1515-24.
Of this once important abbey only a few fragments now survive. The monastery occupied extensive grounds on the banks of the river Garnock, situated a few miles from the sea in the northern division of Ayrshire known as Cuninghame. The ruins of the south transept of the church may still be seen from the Kilwinning Railway Station towering above the houses of the town.
The site seems to have been occupied in the eighth century by an Irish monk called St. Winnan, who is believed to be the same as St. Finnan of Moville. On the spot sanctified by his cell, a monastery was founded in the twelfth century by Richard or Hugh Moville, said by Pont[35] to have been a knight who fled from England in consequence of his connection with the murder of Becket. He was welcomed by the King of Scotland, who created him Great Constable of the Kingdom, and presented him with the lordships of Cuninghame, Largs, and Lauderdale. But the dates are difficult to reconcile. It seems, however, that towards the end of the twelfth century a colony of Tyronensian Benedictines was imported into Kilwinning from Kelso Abbey, and, as usually happened at that period, was speedily endowed with lands and became wealthy. To judge from the style of the surviving architecture, the church must have been erected early in the thirteenth century. The south entrance doorway from the cloisters to the nave (Fig. 500), although pointed, contains some lingering Norman enrichments, while the other principal remains indicate the work of the thirteenth century. The history of the monastery is somewhat obscure. The chartulary has been lost, but the names of a number of the abbots are preserved.[36]
In the Collections of the Archæological Association of Ayr and Wigton (1878) are printed a number of documents showing agreements between the monks of Kilwinning and others regarding churches and benefices. Amongst other papers there are notices of a charter by Robert I., granting to the monks fishings in Leven and Clyde; a petition by David II., showing that in consequence of wars and inroads the abbot and convent were reduced to a state of want and poverty, and granting them aid; several letters by Pope John XXII., early in the fourteenth century, confirming grants of different churches and patronages; confirmations by Robert II. and Robert III. of prior benefactions and new gifts; grants by James III. and confirmation by James IV. of certain royal grants formerly made to the abbey. An instrument narrates how, in 1512, the precincts of the abbey were invaded by the Earls of Glencairn and Angus on behalf of a rival abbot, thus showing that the monastery began to suffer from the turbulence of that period. Towards the middle of the sixteenth century the abbacy passed into the hands of commendators who, “for the utility and advantage of the said monastery,” as it was expressed, but really in order to secure as much as possible of the spoil, granted charters of the monastic lands to their lay friends and relations. Thus, in 1552, there is a confirmation by Queen Mary of a charter granted by Gavin, commendator of the abbey, in favour of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, whereby “on the narrative of the usefulness and necessity to the said monastery of a prudent and legal justiciar, chamberlain, and bailie for the administration of justice to the tenants and inhabitants of the lands of the said monastery, and for their lawful defence against any that attempted to trouble them,” and also remembering the good services of the Earl and his predecessors “in the safeguard and defence of the rights and liberties of the said monastery, and especially in opposing by force and resisting malignant and heretical men in these times attempting every year to invade their monastery lands and possessions and to rob their revenues,” the feu right of the office of justiciary, chamberlainry, and bailiacy of certain of the lands of the monastery is granted to the said Earl, together with a salary of £40 Scots. Further charters are also granted to different parties in consideration of sums paid by them, said to be for the repair and restoration of the monastic buildings, which were ruinous and decayed.
In 1565 the abbacy was set apart, along with Paisley, Kelso, Jedburgh, and Newbattle, for the royal charges. By a charter under the Great Seal in 1603-4, the whole lands and possessions of the monastery were raised into a free temporal lordship in favour of Hugh, fifth Earl of Eglintoun.
The office of commendator appears to have survived, and in 1606, after the restoration of Episcopacy, retained the privileges attached to the order, and we find the bishops (who were the commendators) taking their seats in Parliament as formerly. This continued till 1638, when presbytery prevailed.[37]
The buildings of the abbey appear to have been destroyed shortly after the Reformation. According to Knox the Earl of Arran, together with the Earls of Glencairn and Argyle and the Protestants of the west, cast down Fail, Kilwinning, and part of Crosraguel Abbeys, and, as stated by Pont, the work of destruction was completed in 1591. Part of Kilwinning Abbey, however, was repaired and fitted up as a Presbyterian place of worship. This was taken down in 1775, and the present very plain parish church was erected on the site of the choir. Shortly after this time (1789) the building was visited by Captain Grose, who mentions that the tower or steeple was then being repaired by the Earl of Eglinton.
The Plan (Fig. 501) shows what parts of the monastic edifices can now be seen above ground. These consist of the south wall and gable of the south transept, and one pier with respond and arch between the south transept and its east aisle; the handsome door (see Fig. 500) which led from the nave into the cloisters; the entrance to the chapter house from the cloisters; a long ancient wall which formed the wall of the south aisle of the nave; and some portions of the west end of the nave and the south-western tower.
In the architectural notes which accompany an account of the abbey in the publication of the Archæological Association of Ayr and Wigton,[38] Mr. Galloway gives an account of the result of certain diggings and explorations carried out by him.
From these it was ascertained that traces of the outline of the rest of the church could be distinguished, as shown on the Plan. It was thus found that “in its original state Kilwinning was a cross church, 225 feet in extreme length internally, 64 to 65 feet in breadth at the nave, and 98 feet from north to south of the transepts. The nave had north and south aisles throughout its entire length, the transepts had eastern aisles only, and there was a small chancel about 30 feet in breadth, without aisles.” The church was terminated at the west end with two square towers, which projected slightly beyond the walls of the nave. The mode of construction of these towers formed a rather exceptional feature in Scottish church architecture. The towers were not carried down with solid walls to the foundation according to a usual plan (as at Elgin, Aberdeen, &c.), but rested on two sides on arches which opened into the nave and aisles, and thus formed a continuation of the aisles of the nave. Of these arches only that which opened into the south aisle remains, together with the pier and respond which supported it. The arch (Fig. 502) is acutely pointed and the springing is high, thus giving it a kind of horse shoe shape. The foundations of some other parts of the south
tower were, by excavation, ascertained to exist. The mouldings and caps of the existing piers and arch all belong to the first pointed period, but from having been long exposed to the weather, they are considerably decayed. The mouldings on the west angle of the pier are carried up to a great height without any caps (see Fig. 502). The caps would, doubtless, be placed at a higher point than the shafts now reach to. This indicates that the arches of the towers on the side next the central aisle of the nave were very high, probably reaching to the level of the clerestory arch, and thus effectually including the space of the towers in the nave. This arrangement of the tower arches next the nave is quite unique, and would give the appearance of a western transept at the entrance to the church.
The north-west tower has entirely disappeared, but its position has been ascertained to have corresponded with that of the south tower. Above the existing arch from the tower into the south aisle, and on the east side of it, a small portion of an arch of the triforium may still be observed (Fig. 503). A small shaft with cap and a portion of the arch yet remain. In Grose’s view some fragments of the clerestory are also shown, but they no longer exist. To the north of the south tower pier a strong wall, 6 feet in thickness, has been erected across what was originally part of the nave. This, Mr. Galloway thinks, was probably built as a reparation of the fourteenth century, the structure having probably suffered injury during the wars of independence. Whether the wall was erected at that time or not, there can be little doubt that it was constructed after the demolition of the original west front and tower, as a substitute for the former. The wall is built across the church between the east faces of the two towers, thus leaving the high arches of the towers, if they then existed, outside the edifice. It seems probable, however, that the south tower had by that time been partially demolished, and its ruins have remained ever afterwards exposed to the weather. Hence the extremely weather worn appearance the stones now present. The north tower, we know, remained complete till this century. It is shown by Grose, and an account exists of its being struck by lightning in 1805, and of its fall five years thereafter. A new tower has, in recent times, been erected on the site of the old north tower.
This renewed west wall has a plain pointed doorway and a lofty double window (see Figs. 502 and 503), with a simple mullion and transome of rather indefinite design. The doorway is extremely plain and small, being only about 3 feet in width, and having a double splay on the jambs and arch.
The nave seems to have consisted of seven bays in addition to the towers, and was of unusual width. A considerable portion of the south wall of the south aisle survives, and still retains the corbels which carried the vault of the south aisle. This wall, no doubt, formed the north side of the cloister walk, and contained the fine doorway from the cloister to the nave, shown in Fig. 500. Some traces of late Norman work are, as already noticed, observable here. The arch is pointed, and contains four orders of mouldings. The label is enriched with the dog-tooth, while the other ornaments, as well as the details of the caps and bases, are of a somewhat Norman character. The design of this doorway is thus in the transition style, while the remainder of the building is all of early pointed work. The undercut cross bars, which formed a chevron enrichment rising above a roll, have all been knocked off, only the stumps being left. One of the caps contains traces of two figures, and the ornamentation of the bases is peculiar (see enlarged sketches in Fig. 500). Two plain round headed doorways can be traced in the south wall of the nave, near its west end. They doubtless led from the nave into the cloister.
Modern buildings now occupy the site of the cloisters, and the old cloister wall is incorporated with them. One of these houses bears the date of 15—, and comprises some of the plain vaulted structures which appear to have formerly been part of the abbey buildings.
The south wall of the south transept, with its gable (Fig. 504), is, fortunately, fairly well preserved, and forms a lofty and prominent object in the landscape, rising to a height of about 90 feet. Its triple lancets, with their plain chamfers on the outside, and bold mouldings in the interior (Fig. 505), and circular light above, are characteristic of thirteenth century work. The mouldings and dog-tooth enrichments of the arch of the eastern aisle (see Fig. 505) are indications of the same period. Similar mouldings and ornaments have been carried up into the triforium, and remains of a circular cusped opening are visible in the east wall above. One arch of the arcade of the east aisle, with one pier and respond, still survive. All the work connected with them is of fine first pointed design. A doorway in the south-west angle of the transept led to the stair to the upper parts of the structure, and, doubtless, also to the dormitory over the chapter house, &c.
From Mr. Galloway’s explorations it was discovered that the foundations of the north wall of the north transept still exist, thus enabling the dimensions of the church to be determined. Both transepts had, as was very usual, only an eastern aisle.
To the south of the south transept some portions of the slype or passage from the cloisters to the eastern side of the monastery, and parts of the chapter house, yet remain. The slype has a plain semicircular arched doorway (see Fig. 507) next the cloister, and has had a stone bench or seat running along each side. The passage has been arched with a cradle vault in ashlar, of which a small portion still survives. The chapter house is in ruins, but the west wall (Fig. 506), which contains the semicircular entrance from the cloister and two semicircular windows, one on each side of the entrance, is still preserved. The windows were divided into two openings by a mullion and two plain arches. The doorway and double windows have numerous mouldings, and the doorway is enriched also on the inside (Fig. 507.) The mouldings are bold, and the same mouldings are repeated in the jambs and arches. The caps are simple (see section in Fig. 506), but they are not adjusted to the mouldings of the jambs, having a plain soffit, against which the shafts and mouldings of the jambs butt. These are all indications of somewhat late design. As was usually the case, the doorway and side windows of the chapter house were left open; that is, without a door to close the doorway or glass in the windows, so that all that passed in the chapter house might be seen and heard from the cloister. The chapter house has been of quadrangular form, 19 feet in width by 38 feet 4 inches in length. Only the entrance front remains.
Of the choir the outline only could be traced during the excavations. The eastern angles terminated with massive buttresses. The extreme external width over the bases was only 42 feet 6 inches, thus leaving a choir not more than 30 feet in width internally. From the massive foundations discovered at the intersection of the nave and transepts, it is surmised that there may probably have been a central tower as well as the two western towers.
The dioceses of Dunblane and Brechin were founded towards the close of the reign of David I. from the remains of the old Pictish bishopric of Abernethy, after numerous portions had been abstracted by St. Andrews.[40]
The town of Dunblane stands on the left bank of the Allan Water about four miles north of Stirling. The old town is small and consists of a single narrow street leading from the bridge over the Allan up to the platform on which the cathedral stands surrounded by its ancient churchyard. Indications of the age of many of the houses may be observed in the coats of arms inserted in their walls.
It is believed that St. Blane, in the seventh century, here founded a Columban establishment, which is said to have been an offshoot from Kingarth in Bute.[41] The bishopric was re-established by King David I. in 1150. The ancient square tower of the cathedral which still survives is a relic of the structure erected in the twelfth century. Nothing is known of the cathedral from that time till 1233, when Clement was appointed to the see. Finding everything connected with the bishopric in a neglected condition, he repaired to Rome and laid the case before the Pope, pointing out that the Columban monastery had fallen into lay hands, that the church was roofless and without a pastor, and that divine service was only occasionally performed. He succeeded in his appeal, and, in 1238, the Bishops of Glasgow and Dunkeld were appointed to settle matters between the Bishop of Dunblane and the Earl of Monteith who had raised certain claims. Clement died in 1258, after having re-established the bishopric, and, it is believed, partly, if not entirely, rebuilt the cathedral.
To judge from the style of the architecture, it is probably the case that the structure was at least begun by him, though the style indicates that it was not completed before the end of the thirteenth century.
This cathedral is one of our noblest structures, and situated as it is on the high east bank of the Allan, which here swells out into a broad