The square tower over the crossing is seen (see Fig. 563) to rise externally only a short way above the apex of the roofs of the choir and transept. Like the choir, it has been intended to be vaulted, the springing stones being still visible (see Fig. 558); but the supports were either found to be too light, or were so damaged by the fire that, as above mentioned, the piers and arches had to be strengthened with supporting walls brought up from the foundation. The upper part of the tower appears to have originally been of the date of the transept, and to have been restored, like the rest of the edifice, at a later period. This is evident from the shape of the window openings, which are of first pointed work, and also from the corbels of the parapet, some of which are original and of early form, while others, which have been restored, are of the late form common in the churches and castles of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The large trefoil apertures have suffered from the fire, and have been built up.

To the north of the choir is a small vaulted structure about 16 feet square, called the Dunbar Vestry (see Plan). It is evidently of late date, and its style supports the tradition that it was erected by Prior Dunbar shortly before the Reformation. It is vaulted, and bears the arms of Dunbar on one of the bosses.[59]

Apparently of the same date is the sacrament house (Fig. 564) inserted in the north wall of the choir, and a door between the choir and vestry, which has the three-sided arch common at the period. On the north side of the vestry are some remains of a door and wheel stair, the latter of which appears to have led to the roof. The position of the vestry is very awkward, being placed within two feet of the transept aisle, the windows of which are thus almost obscured by it.

The part of the church lying immediately to the south of the transept is called the sacristy, or the lady chapel. It is vaulted, and from the form of the mouldings, caps, window, &c., is evidently of the same date as the transept. The vaulting at the west end has been partly rebuilt, and a fireproof closet formed in the angle, no doubt for the purpose of containing valuables used in the service. At the east end a ruined opening into the transept seems to have been a squint to allow the service at the altar to be seen from the transept. Traces of colour are still observable here, but in Cordiner’s time many emblematic paintings were visible.

To the south of the sacristy is the chapter house, and beyond it the slype. These have been restored within recent times, and the east windows renewed in the same pointed segmental form as the old ones. The doors and windows to the west have also been partly renewed.

The sketch of the chapter house (Fig. 565) shows the interior looking north-west, with the double door and two side windows which face the cloister. The apartment is about 29 feet square, and has a central pillar on which the vaulting rests. A figure of the Agnus Dei may be observed on one of the bosses. The chapter house has evidently, from the first pointed details visible in the door, windows, and corbels, been erected in the thirteenth century; but the details of the central pillar, with its slender shafts introduced amongst the mouldings, clearly indicate a restoration of the chapter house at a date well advanced in the fifteenth century. The fireplace is of modern design.

Still further to the south is the monks’ hall or fratry (Fig. 566), a chamber 45 feet long by 28 feet wide. It is vaulted, and the vaulting is carried by two central pillars. These are plain octagons, into which the chamfered ribs of the arches die. The tracery in the window at the south end is modern, but the large opening is old, having been made so as to admit as much sunshine as possible from the south. This apartment is now used for service by the Free Church of the district, and contains the old pulpit, brought from the ancient church of St. Giles in Elgin, when it was rebuilt, an interesting example of florid Renaissance carving. There can be little doubt but that all these buildings south from the lady chapel belong chiefly to the restoration instituted by the Benedictines in the fifteenth century.

In the interior of the south-west angle of the transept may be observed a wide stone staircase. This leads to the upper floor of the buildings which lie to the south of the transept, and were formerly the monks’ dormitories. One small room over the lady chapel may possibly have been a scriptorium or an oratory. This part of the domestic edifices has now been restored and roofed in, and set aside by the Duke of Fife as a place of shelter and amusement for the visitors to the priory.

The cloister garth is planted with shrubs and kept in good order. Owing to the slope of the ground there have been steps up to the south entrance to the garth, and there still remain steps at the north door, which is a semicircular doorway of good, though late, design. It is evidently meant for a reproduction of Norman work.

Another doorway is still preserved at the south-west angle of the cloister, which was probably the entrance to the refectory. Owing to the

slope of the ground, the refectory and fratry have been raised on vaulted cellars.

Of the prior’s house only the ruins of some of the walls remain. These show that it has been extensive, but there are no features to give a clue to its date. Some remains of the priory mill, which adjoined the prior’s house, are also still observable.

ST. MUNGO’S CATHEDRAL, Glasgow.

The site on which this cathedral stands has been devoted from very ancient times to religious uses. It is associated with the name of St. Ninian, who is reported to have founded a church here in the beginning of the fifth century. This site was also the scene of the labours of St. Kentigern, or Mungo, who revived religion in the locality in the sixth century, and is said to have established an episcopal see. Here the meeting took place between him and St. Columba, on which occasion, as a sign of friendship, they exchanged their pastoral staves. The place was further sanctified by becoming the last resting-place of St. Mungo’s remains.

During the political changes which occurred in Strathclyde in the following centuries Christianity seems to have been almost obliterated. But in the twelfth century the revival of religion begun by Queen Margaret had penetrated into this region, and was fostered by her son David, Prince of Cumbria. In 1115 he restored the see of Glasgow, and appointed his tutor John (called Achaius) to the bishopric. In order to provide it with suitable means, an inquisition was made, in 1120, concerning the lands which had formerly belonged to the church of Glasgow. In 1124, John, the first of the new line of bishops, began to replace the ancient church which had previously existed with a new structure, which was doubtless raised on the site of the old one. This church was consecrated in 1136, in presence of the king and his retinue.

Bishop Joceline, previously abbot of Melrose, was consecrated in 1175. Under him, and by his influence, the burgh received many privileges, and advanced in prosperity. Between 1189 and 1192 he was engaged in restoring or adding to the building.

The original church of Bishop John, “built, perhaps, chiefly of wood,” had been recently destroyed by fire. Through the exertions of Bishop Joceline a society was founded to collect funds for its restoration, and the work was sufficiently advanced for consecration on 6th July 1197.[60]

It was generally believed, at one time, that the existing choir and lower church were erected by Bishop Joceline; but it has been shown by Mr. John Honeyman, architect, in various papers on the subject, published at various times during the last forty years, that only a small part of the structure which now exists may possibly be of the time of that bishop.

According to Mr. Honeyman, a portion of the lower church, situated at its south-west angle, and extending from the transept eastwards to the third buttress of the choir, and including one bay and a half, shows some differences in its style of architecture from the remainder, and may be regarded as of the transition style, and may thus be of the date of Bishop Joceline; while the remainder of the lower church and the whole of the choir are built in the first pointed style, and cannot be earlier than the second quarter of the thirteenth century. The actual builder of the lower church and the choir above, as they now exist, was Bishop William de Bondington (1233-1258). A large part of the structure was completed before his death in the latter year, and the style of the work thoroughly corresponds with his period. In 1242 an ordinance was made for a national collection annually during Lent in aid of the building.[61]

According to Mr. Honeyman, the foundations of the nave were laid, and part of the walls was carried up, before the building of the choir was begun.

Most of the nave appears, from the style of its architecture, to have been chiefly erected at the end of the thirteenth or the beginning of the fourteenth century, but there is no record of its construction. It forms one of the finest examples of the late first pointed or early decorated style in Scotland.

Bishop Wishart occupied the see during the greater part of the War of Independence, and supported the Scottish party on all occasions. He obtained permission from Edward I. to cut timber in the forest of Luss for the purpose of erecting the spire of the cathedral; and it was one of the causes of accusation against him which led to his imprisonment in England that he had used the timber so obtained, not for building the spire, but for making engines of war with which to attack Edward’s forces.

The wooden spire of the cathedral, which was erected during the fourteenth century, was struck by lightning and destroyed in 1400. A new tower of masonry was erected over the crossing by Bishop Lauder (1408-25), who carried the work as high as the main parapet. This bishop appears also to have begun the completion of the chapter house, a detached structure lying to the north-east of the choir. The walls of this building were partly erected about the time of the construction of the choir, but were afterwards raised to two stories in height and vaulted by Bishop Cameron.

Bishop Lauder was succeeded, in 1425, by Bishop Cameron, called “The Magnificent,” from his lavish expenditure and the splendour of his Court. He erected the stone spire above the tower of Bishop Lauder, and also completed the chapter house wing containing the sacristy on the upper floor and the chapter house on the ground floor. His arms are still to be seen on the portions of the structure erected by him. The beautiful rood screen was also probably constructed by him.

During Bishop Cameron’s reign the episcopal see was at the highest point of its power and splendour. The prebendaries, who were originally seven in number, were now increased to thirty-two, and the bishop required that they should all have manses,[62] and reside near the cathedral. The Episcopal Court thus became of great extent and importance, and was said to rival that of the king. Bishop Cameron died in 1446. He was succeeded by Bishop William Turnbull, the founder of Glasgow University. His arms appear on the upper part of the chapter house wing.

Bishop Robert Blackadder was consecrated in 1484. We have already met with this prelate in connection with Jedburgh Abbey and Edrom Church. In his time the see was erected into an archbishopric. A building in continuation of the south transept, called Blackadder’s Aisle, was partly erected by him, but was never carried higher than the ground story or crypt. This archbishop was the last occupant of the see who added much to the adornments of the cathedral. He founded altarages, and erected two altars, on which his arms and initials are carved, in front of the rood screen.

Towards the middle of the sixteenth century, it became apparent that the end of the episcopal reign was approaching. Archbishop James Beaton first withdrew all the treasures and valuables from the cathedral into the bishop’s castle; but, finding himself and them insecure there, he retired to France, taking with him what valuables he could, and also the records of the see from the earliest period. The latter were deposited in the Scots College in Paris, and at the time of the French Revolution they were partially saved by the Abbé Macpherson, and sent back to Scotland.

These records have now been published by the Maitland Club under the title of Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis, with a valuable introduction by the editor, Professor Cosmo Innes.

The cathedral is situated on steep ground sloping eastwards towards the Molindinar Burn, which here runs through a narrow valley on its way southward to the Clyde, which is only a short distance off. Opposite the cathedral, on the eastern bank of the burn, there rises a steep conical hill, now a many-monumented cemetery, from which fine bird’s-eye views of the building may be obtained. The surroundings of the edifice have changed many times since it was built. Till after the Reformation there stood at the west end of the cathedral the Bishop’s Palace, a great fortress covering some acres of ground; but of its many buildings, walls, and towers not a shadow is left. The manses of the prebends have likewise disappeared, and even the Molindinar Burn is buried as a sewer deep below the present surface of the valley. The cathedral is surrounded by the old churchyard, a large open space free from houses, and the structure can thus be well seen on all sides.

Although built at different dates, the edifice has a very homogeneous appearance, and might easily be mistaken at first sight for a building of one period. The structure has a gaunt and stern aspect, and greatly wants some salient features to break its rigid outline. Such features existed till about the middle of this century in the shape of two projecting adjuncts at the west end (Fig. 567), the one on the north side being a tower crowned with a pointed roof, and the other, called the consistory house, being a lower building, which finished like a pele tower with a crow-stepped roof and a cape house. These structures have now been removed.

In the external length of the church, a distance of about 330 feet, the ground falls from west to east about 15 feet. This fall required the walls of the eastern part to be raised so as to bring them up to the level of the western part, and this under-building was made available as a lower church. This lower church forms one of the finest and most characteristic features of the edifice. It extends the whole length from the transept to the east end, and is entirely above ground. It is supposed that the building has been placed on this sloping ground, and not on the higher and leveller site a little to the westwards, in order that the most sacred part, containing the high altar, might be situated immediately over the supposed site of the original tomb of St. Mungo, which would, doubtless, be beneath the east end of the primitive church.

The cathedral, as seen from the east end, with the lower church and the choir towering above it, is very lofty and imposing (Fig. 568), and surpasses the view obtained from the west end (Fig. 569) on emerging from the streets of the city.

The edifice consists (Fig. 570) of a nave of eight bays, with side aisles measuring about 122 feet in length by 61 feet 9 inches in breadth within the walls (the whole length of the edifice being of this width); transepts, which do not project beyond the aisles; a choir of five bays, with side aisles and an aisle at the east end of the same height as the north and south aisles, with chapels beyond it. Entering from one of the eastern chapels is the sacristy or vestiarium at the north-east corner of the choir. A wide staircase leads down from the crossing on each side to the lower church, or crypt, as it is usually called (Fig. 571), and from the lower church is the entrance to the chapter house, immediately below the sacristy. On the south side of the church, and in continuation of the south transept, is situated another low church or crypt, called “Blackadder’s Aisle;” and on the north side, opposite the west bay of the choir, are the foundations of what has apparently been intended to be a large chapel. Over the crossing rise the tower and spire to the height of 217 feet. The church measures about 283 feet in length by 61 feet 9 inches in breadth within the walls, and the central alley of the nave and choir measures between the pillars about 25 feet 3 inches.

As already mentioned, the most ancient part of the structure, according to Mr. Honeyman, is the portion of the lower church at the south-west angle. Mr. Honeyman’s theory is that the church built by Bishop John (Achaius) was restored by Bishop Joceline at the end of the twelfth century, and that the above portion at the south-west angle formed a chapel, and was part of that restoration.[64] He supposes that this chapel, situated in a corner of the old building least likely to be interfered with by the proposed operations, had been preserved as a receptacle for relics while the choir and lower church were being rebuilt by Bishop Bondington in the thirteenth century. Mr. Honeyman points out that one shaft and cap in the east wall of the above chapel and part of the wall adjoining, into which the shaft-stones are bonded, are of the transition style, and correspond with some other fragments of the same style which have been discovered lying loose, and which all appear to have been part of the work carried out in Bishop Joceline’s time. The vaulting of this south-west chapel is also of transition character; but from other indications it is thought that this vault has probably been rebuilt with old materials. These indications are that the shafts, with

their caps and bases, both of the north and south sides of the chapel, are of later character, those of the south side being similar to the corresponding features of the nave and those of the north side resembling the same features in the lower church, and having been, doubtless, renewed when the lower church was re-erected. The floor of this south-west chapel is 15 inches above the level of that of the lower church. The exterior base differs in design from that of the rest of the lower church, and indicates an earlier date. Mr. Honeyman is of opinion that when the south staircase to the lower church was erected this small chapel stood in the way, and prevented the stair from being carried out in the same manner as that on the north side, which was executed according to the architect’s design. The eastern wall of the chapel was afterwards cut through so as to provide access from the south stair to the lower church. The north staircase to the lower church was not impeded, as the south one was, by the above chapel, but was carried out according to the architect’s design, and possesses a handsome early pointed doorway, where it enters the lower church.

Mr. Honeyman then goes on to show that the same base as existed on the outside of the ancient south-west chapel is continued round the nave, which fact supports his view that the nave was founded and the walls partly erected before the choir was built by Bishop Bondington. As pointed out by Mr. Honeyman, the bases of the vaulting shafts and part of the side walls of the nave aisles (more on the north side than the south side) were apparently executed at an earlier date than the choir. “The bases of the shafts on the bench-table of the aisles, with their delicate mouldings and square plinths, belong to an earlier period than anything to be seen in the choir.” But when Bishop Bondington came on the scene and resolved to reconstruct the whole choir, the work at the nave was stopped, not to be resumed for about a century.

With reference to Mr. Honeyman’s views, as explained above, there is, undoubtedly, considerable difficulty in accounting for the numerous peculiarities of the small chamber or chapel at the south-west angle of the lower church; and it is quite likely, as Mr. Honeyman suggests, that this may have been part of an earlier building preserved when Bishop Bondington carried out the work at the choir and lower church. That there was a good deal of early thirteenth century work done in the nave there can scarcely be any doubt. Indeed, it is owing to the nave having been commenced with this early work that it has retained, in its later portions, which form the completion of the work formerly begun, so much of a first pointed character. The annexed sketch (Fig. 572) shows the plan and section of the lower part of the responds of the nave aisles which Mr. Honeyman relies on for proving their early character as compared with the work in the choir; and this will be at once recognised in the keel-shaped shaft and the square plinths and delicate mouldings of the bases. The junction of the external base of the south-west angle or chapel with that of the lower church and the sections of the bases are also shown (Fig. 573). The earlier and simpler character of the base of the south-west angle is apparent. This early base is continued round the whole of the nave (passing through Blackadder’s Aisle), and corresponds in style with the early design of the bases of the interior wall shafts of the nave shown above.

In the south wall of the south-west angle or chapel there is a shaft with the same plan as the responds in the nave aisles, having, like them, the keel edge and cap with first pointed mouldings (Fig. 574); while in the lower church and choir the angle shafts have all the fillet on edge and first pointed caps, as shown in the same Figure.

That there has been transition work in connection with the building is evident from the fragments preserved in the chapter house, of which specimens are shown (Fig. 575). Some pieces of groin ribs (Fig. 576) are also preserved, which have a similar section to those of the south-west angle or chapel, and a transition base with square plinth and spurs at the angles. These transition fragments confirm Mr. Honeyman’s view as to the vault of the south-west chapel having been constructed with old materials when the north wall of the chapel (the details of which correspond with those of the lower church) was rebuilt and the chapel converted into a passage to the lower church.

It is most difficult, owing to the darkness of the place, to obtain accurate sketches, but the annexed diagram (Fig. 577) gives an idea of the shaft in the east wall of the south-west chapel and its cap, on which Mr. Honeyman lays stress as proving their transition character. The abacus is transitional in section, but the carving is undoubtedly first pointed. Mr. Honeyman thinks that the cap may have been left rough at first, and the carving executed in first pointed times.

Whether this shaft and cap and the vaulting of the south-west chapel are transitional, or of the early first pointed date of the lower part of the nave walls, there can be no doubt that Mr. Honeyman’s main contention is correct—viz., that part of the south-west chapel and the lower part of the walls of the nave were constructed before the rebuilding of the lower church and choir was carried out by Bishop Bondington about the middle of the thirteenth century.

The lower church (see Fig. 571) is about 125 feet long, and is about 17 feet in height at the west end; but owing to a fall in the level of the floor at the east end, the height of the vault at that end measures about 4 feet more than at the west end. From the choir floor to the floor of the lower church the height is about 19 feet 3 inches. In order to obtain this height, the floor of the choir is raised about 3 feet above that of the nave. The height of the choir from the floor to the apex of the roof inside is 74 feet 6 inches.

The following are the entrance doorways to the cathedral—viz., a wide double entrance doorway at the west end of the nave, and a south doorway in the second bay from the west end. There are also north and south doorways in the lower church, and a doorway from the landing of the north stair to the lower church.

The lower church (see Fig. 571), supporting as it does the choir with its aisles and the east aisle with its chapels above, conforms in its structural arrangements to the plan of the upper church. Thus all the pillars in the simpler plan above are supported by pillars in the more complicated plan below. In the latter, between each of the main piers of the arcade, lesser piers are introduced; so that while there are four pillars and five bays on each side of the choir above, there are nine pillars and ten bays in the church beneath. The central area of the lower church is further subdivided by a simple and beautiful scheme of pillars and vaulting, which is arranged in the following manner (Fig. 578). A central shrine of four slender pillars (Fig. 579) is placed opposite the sixth bay, counting from the eastern aisle, and is situated under the high altar of the choir. This shrine is made the centre of the scheme for the vaulting of three bays on each side; the remaining bays on the east and west being treated so as to form a variety both in the piers and vaults. From the shrine as a centre a single central pillar is introduced in the spaces to the east and west, and in the bays beyond them two pillars are introduced in the breadth, and the vaulting is varied so as to suit this arrangement of the pillars (Figs. 580 and 581). The vaulting of the lower church is a masterpiece of design, and produces by very simple means a wonderful variety of effect. It is analysed by Sir G. Gilbert Scott in his lectures, and greatly commended. This vault has been the subject of very careful examination by Mr. T. L. Watson, architect, Glasgow, who points out that it must have been erected at a later period than the rest of the choir. This he proves from the mouldings, which are of a later character than those of the choir. His view is that the original intention was to vault the central aisle with a series of cross vaults similar to those in the side aisles, and he points out that the springers for these vaults were built along with the piers. The central vault, however, was delayed for convenience of building operations till after the upper portions of the choir were finished, and, when this vault came to be executed, the architect had devised the more beautiful scheme which is actually carried out. This required some alteration of the springers, and Mr. Watson draws attention to the points where the alterations are visible. He also points out that the two central east windows of the lower church are different from the others (see Fig. 568). The latter are all double lancets, whereas the former have each one large arch enclosing two smaller ones. The larger arches would be left open during the progress of the work for the introduction of building materials, and the filling in of the smaller arches would be done after the building was completed.

The new scheme of vaulting was, doubtless, so arranged as to leave the original grave of St. Mungo undisturbed, and allow the new shrine to be erected over the sacred spot.

The eastern part of the lower church is treated in a manner similar to the east aisle and chapels over it, except that in the former the chapels are divided by solid walls (containing arched openings) running between the piers and the east wall. The object of these cross walls has been to

give solidity to the lower part of the structure. In the upper church the pillars between the aisle and the eastern chapels stand free, but to have

continued these free standing piers down through the lower church would have made the construction weak. Even with the walls between the

chapels in the lower church the construction has proved insufficient, and at this part of the edifice considerable signs of disturbance are observable. The cross walls contain open arches, each with a piscina and credence table; and the central one contains a monument. This is believed to be the effigy of Bishop Wishart (Fig. 582), but as the space is too short to contain it, the lion at the feet has had to be cut away in order to enable the effigy to be placed where it is. It, therefore, seems to have been brought from another site.

In the northmost chapel is the entrance to the chapter house, which corresponds in style with the lower church (Fig. 583), and has apparently been built about the same period. The main wall shafts of the chapter house (Fig. 584), with their rounded and moulded caps and bases, correspond with those of the lower church, and the windows are also of corresponding design (see Fig. 597), except that the external bases of the window shafts are of a later date. The chapter house would appear to have been left incomplete for a long period, and to have been heightened and finished in the fifteenth century, as will be pointed out. The doorway (see Fig. 583), which is in the first pointed style and very ornamental, was evidently designed to give access to it.

The plain cross vaulting of the side aisles of the lower church corresponds with the piers of the subdivided bays, and on the exterior, opposite each intermediate pillar (see Fig. 568), there is a buttress of lesser dimensions than the main buttresses opposite the main piers.

The lower church was formerly well lighted with numerous lancet windows, but, unfortunately, these have been filled, within the last thirty years, with dark-coloured glass, so that, without the aid of lamps, this almost unrivalled specimen of mediæval architecture is obscured from view. Only those whose memory goes back to before the above time can form a proper idea of the beauty and purity of its details.

There is a well about 18 feet deep, built with ashlar, at the east end of the south wall, and near it an altar tomb to one of the family of the Colquhouns of Luss, whose arms it bears. The well may have contributed to the weakness of this part of the edifice; but although the upper part of the building is as much as 18 inches off the plumb, there is no appearance of any settlement at the base. The wall seems to have suffered from a thrust outwards while in course of erection, as the upper story is set back from the lower portion, which is off the plumb.

The south doorway of the lower church (Fig. 585) is a very simple and beautiful design, and forms a porch projecting as far as the buttresses. It has a groined ceiling covered with a sloping stone roof. Immediately opposite the south doorway there is a north entrance to the lower church, which has a moulded pointed arch head, but no porch.

The interior of the choir is a noble specimen of first pointed design. A striking and unusual feature of the plan is the ambulatory aisle which runs round the east end (see Fig. 570), having four chapels beyond it to the east, as above mentioned. These chapels are not divided, like those in the lower church, by walls, but are quite open, and the pillars stand free. The view (Fig. 586) shows that the pillars are slender and clustered, with dog-tooth mouldings in the hollows. Their section is shown in Fig. 587. The caps are rounded and moulded, while those of the wall shafts are carved with foliage. Fig. 588 shows the south-east bay of the east end. The piscina seen in the south-east angle has the drain carried direct to the outside, and is not carried down to the ground, as usual. The vaulting here is of later date than the rest of the work, as is apparent from the

sections of the ribs. As the vaulting was, doubtless, much dislocated by the disturbance which has taken place at the south-east corner, it may have been rebuilt; or, as Mr. Watson points out, it may have been delayed till after the vaulting of the lower church was completed.