NOTES
TAKEN DURING
TRAVELS IN AFRICA,
BY THE LATE
JOHN DAVIDSON, F.R.S. F.S.A., &c.

CONTENTS.

NOTES
TAKEN DURING
TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them, they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his Majesty’s hakeem (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit: he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed during the interview were of an official and confidential nature, I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s, whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.

The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am delighted with it.

Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution, of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up, and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks, Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way, and each in a different one.

Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2] Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain, Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.

Tuesday, Sept. 15.—Started early for the market. This is a curious and interesting scene. Moors, Jews, Spaniards, and lizards in abundance are to be found there, together with a few Englishmen. I met there with a Mr. Hodgson from Virginia: he is a fine specimen, I calculate, of an United States’ diplomatist, and the most gentleman-like American I have ever seen. I have written to Mr. Hay, to request he will make arrangements for my departure; let us see what the result will be.

Wednesday, Sept. 16.—Mr. Hodgson improves much upon acquaintance. He is going to Morocco, and I shall lose a fine chance should I not be able to get off with him. Everybody says the detention is too bad, and it perfectly unhinges me. The air is much cooler, although the thermometer is still at 75°. I received a long dispatch from Mr. Hay, which ended by his stating that he would write on Friday.

Thursday, Sept. 17.—Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.

Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.

Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague.

Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.

Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]

Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves.

Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa, for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].

Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came slick through the house, and the weather was very cold.

Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion, but which side he took is not told.]

Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.

Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco.

Thursday, Oct. 8.—The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.

Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery magnificent. As we returned by the Bocca Leonie, it made our ride about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.

Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to St. Roques’. Was disappointed.

Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The Jasseim sailed.[3]

Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.

Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought with him a lot of presents.

Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.

Wednesday, Oct. 21.—Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou’s clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day, and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and the Society on Friday next.

Friday, Oct. 23.—The lecture went off, I hope, pretty well.

Saturday, Oct. 24.—Passed the morning in receiving visits of congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect, will prove a bore.

Thursday, Oct. 29.—Gave the second lecture, and then went to St. Michael’s cave.

Friday, Oct. 30.—At length I have made up my mind to start for Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.

Saturday, Oct. 31.—Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan incog. with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day after to-morrow.

Monday, Nov. 2.—Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I now mean to go to Tangier.

Tuesday, Nov. 3.—The first meeting of the Philosophical Society took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.

Thursday, Nov. 5.—A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes down here with a vengeance.

Sunday, Nov. 8.—The weather still boisterous; but, as the Jasseim has arrived, I must now think of starting in good earnest.

Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered a lucky day amongst the Turks.

Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve in the Jasseim. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till twelve P.M.

Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr. Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was a very satisfactory one.

Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received in return mona—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs; we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.

Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.; but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.

Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers, ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled, were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it, &c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl[6] of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies “rárá,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty, and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.

Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.

Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.

Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on.

Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid, likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous there was much lightning, which continued through the night.

Saturday, Nov. 21.—The wind has veered round to the west. My fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier, which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with which the bagpipe is music itself, have an accompaniment of six drums; a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept, like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued through the whole night.

Sunday, Nov. 22.—Up at daybreak; the weather delightful. Went to see the party off. Every one wanting something, although the word bahkshísh[9] was not heard; after much quarrelling and grumbling they got to their boat, and we said adieu! Afterwards I went to the church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the Consul-general. Saw the game of powder[10] (la’b-el-báród) played, myself on horseback and the Doctor[11] on foot. Fell in with the procession of the marriage, the wild Ríf[12] and his long gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party, the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made, but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight, a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner that would frighten our ladies. The announcement was received by vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall get a little rest.

Monday, Nov. 23.—Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from Alexandria with two hundred Hájís; I am going to see them pass the officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance, while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The báshá, the sheïkh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality, and all looking equally wretched. As the tide had flowed up while we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got permission to pass through the batteries, which are but poor things. They are mounted with guns of every calibre and all kinds of metal; some are, however, very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the captain of the port, the Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Súr, and his highness the Sheïkh. The strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no little amusement. There have been more Hájís this year than were ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to three hundred dollars; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied, according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque; they must not ride an ass through this town; they are, however, the general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Muëddins[13] here are a better class of people than those who perform the same office in Egypt and Syria. The fountain is pretty, but going to decay. The castle is weak, and its whole appearance wretched. I purchased a dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my háik for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for two dollars. The zulham here answers to the bornus of Egypt; the jelábíyah are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for the arms to pass through.

Tuesday, Nov. 24.—Saw the rest of the Hájís, and consulted with Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.

Wednesday, Nov. 25.—Therm. 62°. Took my first lesson in Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank Heaven! it was a little further off.

Friday, Nov. 27.—Therm. 62°. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.

Saturday, Nov. 28.—Weather fine and clear. Walked much about; went to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or three patients. Abú tells me, that a white Sheríf has been making inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is a tree of refuge.

Sunday, Nov. 29.—Went to church, and afterwards walked to the market, and then to the káïd’s. At night there was a severe storm. Therm. 66°.

Monday, Nov. 30.—Therm. 66°. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning. I had a little dealing for a Ríf gun, but the fellow, after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word; he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.

Tuesday, Dec. 1.—Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well, I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must make up for it.

Wednesday, Dec. 2.—Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope, nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.

Thursday, Dec. 3.—Start to-morrow for the Autsét.[14] I find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.

Friday, Dec. 4.—Rose early, hoping to start for the Autsét; but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure till to-morrow.

Saturday, Dec. 5.—Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling, which almost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay’s fine grey Dukkálah horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We were accompanied by a soldier, who would have made a fine picture. “Poco negro; cavalo blanco; abito de nada! ningun color.” Ben Káyed and Susa were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words. We fell in with the Sheïkh of Arzilla; he was a fine-looking fellow and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village, where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country, but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a hill; they are said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When opposite to Jebel Habíb (beloved mountain), we struck off to the right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages have been formed out of the ruins. We stopped at a well for a few minutes, and, after passing through several Dawárs,[15] we halted for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five P.M. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various rivers, which we found it no pleasant thing to ford, and were hardly ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor, I was requested to go to an Arab tent, a quarter of a-mile off, to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest, as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Arab. There I saw the mother and grandmother of a fine little girl; she was past all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some doses of calomel and James’s powders, but without the least benefit, as she died at midnight. The failure, however, did not lessen their confidence in my skill. In the morning I had a host of patients; it seemed as if the whole people were sick. A singular instance of Nyctalopia occurred in the case of a fine little boy, who could see most distinctly in the night, but was stone blind during the day. I told the father to bring him to Tangier, and I would see what I could do for him. Having picketed our horses, we got up our tent, and went early to our carpet, which is the travelling bed in the East.

Sunday, Dec. 6.—We felt very cold, though the therm. was 40°. We found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours over a beautifully undulating country, we arrived at Emsorah,[16] or, as the modern village is called, the Autsét, from whence we had a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground, where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheïkh, a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne, to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never taste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables, and miserable kuskusú.[17] Coming round the side of a hill, you perceive several stones forming a circle,[18] of which one, called the Peg, is much higher than the rest; there is, likewise, a second circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is fifteen feet wide, faces the west; on the north and south of the Peg are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°, intended it is said to mark the opening; it is six feet high, and by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From this stone a shelving road leads to a well called ’Aïn tayyeb (good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the gold-treasure said to be concealed here. The poor creatures sleep upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the compass going round while we were taking the bearings of the place, for they fancied that the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman patted me on the back, and said, “Now make us rich,—now find the gold.” It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they were welcome to all the gold and silver they could find. I purchased two coins: an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me, together with a nail; of course they were not worth a farthing. One account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh; by others it is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried, and that what remains is only the top. I think it has been a large place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say, it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn in Ireland.[19] The ’Arákín on the E.S.E. are five large stones, one of which is like a coffin; but I think it is too solid to have ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others, each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned above. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes, and the various circles to have been the various spots selected for the performance of religious rites. The circle is 630 feet; the Peg 16½ feet high, and 6½ in circumference; the larger entrance is 15 feet wide; at the distance of 112 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides are two other entrances, 5 feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of money. In this way we expended three or four more dollars than the place possessed previously. We had the whole village following us, and were obliged to use our whips to keep off the people and dogs. Our own dinner, and the supper of the attendants, the two tents, with the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and mules, together with the miserable population in the background, would have made an interesting group for a picture.

Monday, Dec. 7.—Therm. 50°. The rain commenced about nine last night, and got through our tents at half-past eleven, which made us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk, a large toad, hundreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin, took refuge under our tents; and under myself crept a beetle, and a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much the worse for the rain, we determined upon returning to Tangier, and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The road we took presented scenery more beautiful than the other. We saw the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to Mecca: they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people of service to me? The soldier who came from the dawárét,[20] to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts of being able to get over; at the second, our horses were nearly swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather, however, cleared up as we proceeded; and when we reached Tangier, at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again, after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly.

Wednesday, Dec. 9.—Therm. 54°. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay by the Wád Bú Bárah, called also Jews’-river, along the ruins of the aqueduct, called El Kanṭarah, and by the bridge up to Mount Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large quantity of iron, of an ore-like[21] incrustation. The house and garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful; but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.

Thursday, Dec. 10.—A lovely day. The weather seems to have become settled again. Therm. 51°.

Friday, Dec. 11.—The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The Rífman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he were in heaven, brought a white zulham for six dollars, and a Rífí gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish burial-ground to see the women. They have a strange custom here of putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots, upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest class never leaves her house for twelve months after her marriage; those of the middling not till six months; and even those of the lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves the sleeping-room for a week, and then only to dine with the family: she keeps the house for three months.

Saturday, Dec. 12.—Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four weeks since I sent my letter to the Sulṭán. I do not feel very well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the people. At night there was a heavy storm.

Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction.

Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up.

Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.

Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.

Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour, or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.

Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small, and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense as possible.

Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him, I have determined to say no.

Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church; perhaps for the last time for some period.

Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The reptiles are very fine; they neither eat[23] nor are they eaten. This was the first night of Ramadan.

Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear, and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with torches and screams to the house of her husband.

Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?

Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good Friday.

Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now, the mules cannot be got ready. Nunquam meus. The weather very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.

Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another, and declining the honours of the grand Hajj[25] As-sídí, we got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My cortège consisted of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we encamped for the night: a poor day’s journey of not more than ten miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my monnah came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls, three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four ardebs[26] of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf, which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one, just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.

Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten, we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27] From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the western limit). Our monnah soon began to make its appearance; it consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their appetites; for the soldiers have three monnah of kuskasú in addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.

Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the grinding-river, (Wád el ’Áyéshah[28]) between the two mills on its banks, we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by mid-day, and see the town. Our monnah to-day consisted of a cow, two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers, barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us, making up six tents.

Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh, which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war, and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and, after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us an escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s; but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that we could come to-morrow. Our monnah was very poor; and the káïd sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us, intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having broken down, I was compelled to change her.

Wednesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 50°. Up early. Paid a visit to Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however, determined to enforce my right. This little fracas has done some good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are principally black. Our monnah came late, and by driblets. Six black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the bishnah, which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was covered with large quantities of el kelakh, a plant resembling fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time, we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.

Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we came to four fine kubbahs, buried almost in the sand. They are called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are two more kubbahs. We got well across the ford; but our baggage mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head: on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down, and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our monnah, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe, Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.

Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our monnah had been small; but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way to Mehedíyah. We bought some shibbel, which we saw caught. It is a finer fish than our salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We likewise saw here the bishnah seed, of which the bread of the country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah, who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as the other refused the monnah for the soldiers and muleteers, I would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31] There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.

Saturday, Jan. 2.—Therm. 50°. Symptoms of rain. The káïd still civil, but very firm. He gave us an escort of fifteen foot soldiers, armed with guns. The pass through which our road lay was most beautiful. There were three fine lakes, with two palm trees. On a circular hill there was a kubbah; and on each side the sloping hills were covered with different shrubs. The whole scenery was very picturesque. On the road there was much traffic, and we again heard of the soldiers who were to accompany us. We saw the town, and the Sma’[32] (Sauma’ah) of the mosque of Hasan. At about one mile from the city, we made a halt at a grand aqueduct, to enable the baggage to come up. We passed outside the walls of Sallee, a fine large place, once the terror of the Mediterranean, but now in ruins: its walls are still imposing, and the gate beautiful. We then arrived at the river which separates Salé from Rabáṭ, and crossed it, at three P.M., with much greater ease and comfort than we did the last one. Here again we had some trouble from the non-arrival of our letters. We found, however, Ben Braham, the British agent, waiting to receive us, and to conduct us to his house, where we took up our quarters.

Sunday, Jan. 3.—Therm. 50°. Morning fine. The view from our window beautiful. We went to the sók,[33] where we saw the finest piece of acting I ever witnessed. The performers were two improvisatori from Sús. Their action was so well suited to the subject, that I could understand them perfectly. Their dresses were purely the old Roman; and such ease and power I never beheld. They began by one charging the other with having tricked him in the sale of a camel; for this he would have him judged; he cursed his five senses, and appealed to Heaven; and then, by a series of expressive gestures and magnificent language, he extolled the good and cursed the bad. Being much delighted, we threw him some three or four ounces. This substantial proof of our approbation had a powerful effect in quickening his imagination; but in exciting the feelings of the one, it damped somewhat those of the other; and after the former had launched forth in praise of the Christians, the latter sung the praises of the Sulṭán and the beauty of the mosques, finishing with some verses that induced us to open our purse-strings wider. We then left them for the bázár, where we found much business going on. The streets were wider, the people better-looking and happier, than we had seen elsewhere. There were many fine mosques, and numerous kubbah. We proceeded then to the governor’s and administrador’s. The former was a great beast. We told him we would not stand, and he then got chairs for us. He was at first disposed to be sulky; but our káïd told him it would not do with me. He then stated, that we must wait till Tuesday; as he supposed I should like a little rest, and hoped I should be pleased with the city; that he would then collect from four to five hundred horse, to start at any time I might appoint; but when I asked to go to Shellah, I was told there was a prohibition against it. We then went to Isma’íl Es-sumbul, who gave us a splendid luncheon and some excellent wine, accompanied by many offers of civility. We now begin to find that we are state-prisoners. There is a soldier on the landing-place, another at the door, and three billeted in the house. We are asked where we want to go, as it is necessary to obtain the governor’s permission previously. We went to the Millah,[34] to see the Jews’ quarters. There are some fine houses, and beautiful women. The soldiers would not, however, allow us to go outside the walls, although we were at the very gates. We came home, dined, read the English service, and entered upon some discussions on religious questions. Abú has been sent for by the governor, who made him a small present of tea and sugar. During the day I had several patients with maladies, some real, some imaginary. Accompanied Mr. John Hay to see a very pretty Jewess, for whom he had brought forty ducats, paid for a breach of promise of marriage. From all I hear of the man, a very fine and good girl has had a lucky escape.

Monday, Jan. 4.—Therm. 56°. Very fine. Up early, and went to Salé, to see the administrador. Few Christians now visit this place, although many have been there, whose hard fate made them its forced inhabitants. Salé is a large town, but thinly peopled. The house of the administrador is a very good one. He gave us tea, &c. I had a long consultation about seeing a child of a friend of his. From thence I went to the Millah, where I found lots of patients. The principal prescription required of me was something to cure barrenness, and to ensure a large family. Returned to Rabát, and began arrangements for prosecuting my journey. The muleteers were very sorry for their behaviour; but I have turned them off, and I shall now be better served. Troops are collecting through the fear of the Zairi, who are close to the town in great numbers. They extend to Enzileh dhé Bú Sinákah. We shall have a fine lot of troops, and I hope equal lots of fun. The monnah was sent as usual; sheep, fowls, beef, eggs, bread, fruit, &c., and candles. I am, however, getting tired of this, as I find that the monnah is an inducement to spin out the time of travelling. In spite of all I can do or say, my room is filled with patients. I have taken care, however, to employ all my hands in compounding medicines. My host, Samuel Ben Dilac, is suffering from a rupture and hydrocele. Most of the people have some disorder in the eyes. I am stuffed with food; and I cannot lift up my hand without being asked the reason for doing so. Some of Abú’s countrymen came with a present of fowls, to ask his blessing. The people here cannot make us out. I rather expect a breeze to-morrow; but it will be seen that I am not to be daunted. I have ordered a saddle and bridle, and hope to be off early to-morrow.

Tuesday, Jan. 5.—Therm. 56°. Morning fine. Began the arrangements for the mules at half-past four A.M., but could not get off till nearly nine. Our cavalcade consisted of Mr. John Hay, Mr. Crusentholpe, the British agent, my discarded muleteers, the káïd and his ten soldiers, and about ten of the governor’s; one of whom galloped off to say that I had started. Many a pretty face was peeping through the narrow windows and cracked doors. We met the governor, and exchanged compliments at the end of the grand street. He preceded myself out of the city, to a place where about two hundred cavalry were drawn up, and formed a line through which we rode. The beauty of the Barb horses, and the rich Moorish dresses, presented a sight pleasing and picturesque to the eye of an European. When we had reached about the centre of the line, the leading squadron halted, and made an open space through which we rode, while about thirty, galloping up on each side, formed the wings. In this order we continued along the side of an aqueduct, till we reached the house of the Sulṭán; here the aqueduct crossed the road, but continued visible for many miles. At the distance of a two-hours’ march from the city, the governor and my friends took their leave, and I was put under the care of two káïds, one of whom was to conduct me to the governor of the district, and the other to take me to the Sulṭán’s son. I here began this portion of my journey under the most favourable circumstances. The whole party halted if I stopped; and two soldiers were ordered to attend upon Abú, some of whose countrymen were amongst the troops of the escort, and came to receive his blessing. He, poor fellow, is more helpless than ever. At noon the party took up an offensive position. We closed our front, then sent out scouts, and then a signal was made on the right wing; and after much noise and confusion we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya’ that he had been seized by the people of Rabáṭ, and claimed the protection of his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya’ separated from the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene, and hoped to see something of a fight; but my káïd rode into the midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I should give to the Sulṭán, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel, to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback, followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road; and I was now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A little after one, while rounding a beautiful bay, upon one side of which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,[35] we met a caravan going to Rabáṭ. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying, and gave and received the usual compliments. He tried to humbug me by saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort, as I was a friend of the Sulṭán’s. After giving some private directions to my káïd I took leave; but I was scarcely a mile off, when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present, just to wash the governor’s clothes.[36] I gave them two dollars; but I was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sulṭán. We then crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed, who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the Sherádi,[37] which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here a large dawár, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the troops of the Audaya’—a change much for the worse. Our road lay along the coast until we halted, at half-past five, at a large dawar, of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty picture. My own marquee was first pitched; on the right of it the káïd’s, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan’s black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with the baggage and the animals, forming a circle. The camels and caravan were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A monnah was brought, with an apology for its being so small; the poor fellows stating that they had been driven from their homes. This was the first day in which I felt somewhat lonely.