Múnghono, which is likewise the name of the whole district, has been a place of importance from early times, and is often mentioned in the history of the Bórnu kings. After the richness of natural forms which I had beheld in Ádamáwa, the country seemed extremely monotonous, there being nothing whatever to cheer the eye except the blossom of the mimosas, which spread a sweet scent all around. We encamped during the hot hours of the day near the well of Káine, where we had great difficulty in supplying ourselves with water from the well, while a little later in the season a large lake is formed here: for Africa is the region of contrasts as well in nature as in human life.

When we set out again from this place, people from the town, who had been informed of our approach, came to meet us; and I heard, to my great satisfaction, that the crafty Arab Mohammed el Mughárbi, whom I had already met in Gúmmel, had at length arrived with the merchandise confided to his care, the nominal value of which was 100l. sterling, so that there was at least some hope of being able to carry on the mission on a small scale.

But I could not but feel pleased with my reception on returning to head quarters in this part of the world; for when we approached the southern gate of the town, three horsemen, who were stationed there, came galloping up to me, and having saluted me with their spears raised, placed themselves in front, and in stately procession led me through the town to my house, where I was soon regaled with a plentiful supper sent by the vizier. I afterwards perceived that he had expected me to pay him my respects the same evening; but, as I felt very weak, I deferred the visit till the next morning, when, on his return from an early visit to the sheikh, he gave me an audience in the presence of all the people. Having expressed his sorrow at my reduced state, and having inquired how I had been received in Ádamáwa, he entered, with apparent delight, into a long conversation with me respecting the form of the earth and the whole system of the world. On being asked what I now intended to do, I replied that it was my design, after having made the tour of the lake, to try to penetrate into the regions south of Bagírmi. He immediately expressed his doubts as to the possibility of going round the lake as far as the Bahar el Ghazál, but promised to further my plans as far as possible, although he thought that I had done enough already, and should rather think of returning home safely with the results of my labours; for seeing me so weak during the first rainy season which I was spending in these regions, he was afraid that something might happen to me.

Well satisfied with this audience, I returned to my quarters and wrote a short report to H.M.’s government, of the results of my journey, informing them that my most deeply-cherished hopes with regard to that river in the south had been surpassed, and requesting them to send an expedition in order to verify its identity with the so-called Chadda. This report, which was sent off by a courier a day or two before Mr. Overweg’s return from his navigation of the lake, and which was overtaken by a messenger with a short account of his survey, created general satisfaction in Europe, and procured for me the confidence of H.M.’s government. Meanwhile I endeavoured to arrange the pecuniary affairs of the mission as well as I could.

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APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

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I. — Quarters of the Town of Kátsena.

Ambutéy, or Mbutéy, the oldest quarter; Tódo-málle[145], Bar-hemáwa, Suafáwa, Rími-n-Sámbari, Darma, Túdduwa-Anábara, Tokáwa, Chidefáwa, Rími-n-Gúlladu, Uché-albába, Mógoba alhándu, Tawátínke[146], Sófo-káswa, Mesállachi-n-Káura, Dúrrima-n-tákelme (the shoemakers’ quarter), Ungwa Debbósa, Kameyáwa, Shibdáwa, Dábera, Tafí da ráwa (“clapping hands and dancing”—a very merry quarter, as it seems), Ungwa-n-baráye, Ungwa Dóka, Sábbera, Mehédi, Ungwa Kúka, Chefenáwa, Lóloki-n-da-n-al barka, Ungwa Saká, Ungwa da-n-alló (probably the schoolmasters’[147] quarter), Ya-áura, Yansabóni, Dambo, Súnkurá, Ungwa Beréberé (the quarter of the Bórnu people), Gamberáwa, Lóloki-n-ákochi, Barasáki, Rími-n-áferga, Týdde Líffeda, Ungwa Sherifáwa, Limáwa, Chédia[148] Akánzem, Kófa Túluwí, Gogári, Réri-n-wuári, Jagabánchi, Addemunáwa, Dodáwa, Kachúmbe, Yankéwuré, Masanáwa, Muskáni, Cheferáwa, Lóloki-n-Kabáwa, Gafay, Ungwa Chédia, Kokoyáwa, Jangwáki, Jangozáwa, Mesállachi-n-Góberáwa (the mosque of the Góber people), Fáskari, Zázagau, Dúrrimi-n-sháuru[149], Kontaráwa, Sakáwa, Kófa-n-Yándaka, Ungwa Köani, or Kwáni (probably the quarter of the Köana or Kwána people), Dorówa, Sabberáwa, Jambíra, Mákera-n-owó, Mákera-chínki, Daugaumu, Yagabánchi, Yarángway, Mʿallemi-n-dáwa, Bokudáwa, Kantamáwa, Békuráwa, Bindáwa, Mareá, Ungwa Turáwa (the quarter of the Arabs), Ungwa Sirdi (the saddlers’ quarter), Ungwa Yatáwa, Jambaráwa, Yangozáwa, Jembiráwa (different from Jamberáwa), Machíka, Samrí, Arbabejéri; then the quarters lying close to the different gates of the town, and called after them the Kófa-n-Gúga, K. Samrí, K. Dyrbi, K. Marúsa, K. Káura, K. Gazúbi, K. Kóya, K. Yéndaka. Further, the quarters Lóloki-n-karí, Jembísa, Kátukam, Yanguzáli, Kógo, Gulbí, Jínu, Kéyiba, Kuserúwa fodú (the four corners), Ínchide yáki, Duggul, Amorébbi, Danróri, Dandínki, Turkáwa, Haski-n-káura, Sába-n-báuri, Ungóllo or Ngóllo, Adyrjáwa, Ombuwamáy, Ansága, Jínu, Mbánau, Aúra, Dansagí, Dánkashí, Bágada, Bowáy, Shénteli káramá, Shénteli babá, Grássemí, Mágaji-Edíris, Gági, Mejébbamá, Máriná-dan-Gámmu, Jírayí-baba-n-Háusa, Kammasáwa, Dansakáwu, Sakayáwa, Máriná dan máriná, Tokkumáwa, Dambókulum, Marrakáda, Kokóchikó, Propporokáya, Barazakaña, Tebki-n-chémi, Fari-n-yáro, Kádam baki-n-gulbí, Yawal-khawári, Baskoráye, Kautáwa, Rúkum, Góngom, Daggabáwa, Kasáwa, Bagauzamáwa, Ilsáwa, Chiserakáwa, Komming, Hannuzeráwa, Gulbáwa, Hanníni-básará, Moichi, Rímaye-algári, Zambadáwa, Baskoráwa, Mariyadáwa. These are the names of the larger quarters of the town; but there are still a good many smaller ones.

II.—Chief Places in the Province of Kátsena.

The names of the principal places belonging to the province of Kátsena are as follows:—On the west side of the capital: Jengéfi, Yangéro, Búggaji, Baráwa, Kangwa, Kangwáji, Záuri, Kurfi or Kúrrefi, Sháfo, Ráwani, Kúsa, Kómi, Atagaráwa, Kabakáwa, Sóri, Tsáni, Úruma, Úmmadáwu, Kógo, Fáskari, Tsaskia, Sakka, Gunki, Runka, Takabáwa, Dyrrú, Guzoráwa, Automáki, Motázu, Sayáya, Karófi, Géza, Raweó, Ganwa, Farí-n-rúa, Kadándaní, Dóka, Máji, Sabóngarí, Yatáwa, Kadakáwa, Shibdáwa, Bindáwa, Kamrí, Táma, Kusáda, Káfardá, Yakofáwa, Ingáwa or Ngáwa, Dorú, Jáni, Dawané, Yáme, Duwáng, Kógadó, Ajiyáwa, Danyeám, Rinúnguzá, Kúragó, Kaita, Sábi, Kurfúndu, Yandáki, Shinkáfi, Kotyi, Berda, Mókordá, Tunáni, Bai, Kófi, Kúrtufá, Tsúntsuwa, Túrajó, Másabó, Lagéru, Kóddu, Kotta, Mámmarú, Máni, Túwarú, Jéndodó, Dúchi-n-rága, Tamalláwa, Sandáwa, Tábaní, Baréruwa, Goranzám. On the east side there are: Káya, Yáme (different from that above mentioned), Dagésamú, Debbáwa, Máshi, Ílel-ágalú, Ílel-labúkará, Mále-yabáni, Yoyo, Gárwa, Búkurú, Chille, Dankar, Túna, Yéndaká, Rúma, Merédabáy; Musáwa, Dangáli, Tafáshia, Kurkojángo, Dáyay, Sabó-n-bírni, Gángara, Seéya, Mahúta, Dándamay, Kúrremi, Dantýtturu, Danjá, Húriyá, Maska, Gózeki, Dúya, Dárwa, Túdu, Shenéli, Yangéme, Babélkazá, Daháukadá, Kuchéri, Kórumáwa, Machíka, Kiyéra, Báskari, Zágami, Sakafárda, Keffi-n-deñi, Keffi Pokkwa, Keffi Sille; Tsá, Kúndurú, Yashé; Garú-n-Señína, Karadúwa, Táku, Luggul, Kánkara dan Jémmaka, Tótali, Farú, Zágani, Ónaka, Rúwafí, Ájejá, Sábberé, Gúnki, Birki, Múnir, Táura, Dabáwa, Shéni, Ádemú. Towards Dáura there are: Dantótoní, Dandáre, Beñe, Karófi, Mákera, Yentomáki, Dákkaruwé, Sheléri, Samrí, Lámbisa, Tuddu, another Shéni, Dánkada, Fáskali, Koyéllo, bírni-n-Gwári, Madódo, Kurríga.

III.—Chief Places in the Province of Kanó, and Routes diverging from Kanó in various Directions, principally towards the South.

As for the province of Kanó, it comprises a very fertile district of considerable extent, with the following walled towns: Yeríma, Gérki, Zánkara, Yáfen, Ríngim, Dúshi, Géa, Gérko, Dell, Udíl, Táura, Kúra (a place particularly famous for the beauty of its dyed cloth), Sákwa, Bebéji, Rímangadó, Dawáki, Gódia, Bíshi, Gezáwa, Zákeré, Killi, Méjia, Méga, Merké, Tákay, Sangáya (the place touched at by Clapperton), and the governor’s two pleasure towns Gógem and Fánisó.

Besides these walled towns, the most considerable places of the province are as follows: Ungógo, Dáwano, Zabenáwa, Gezé, Wóttarí, Góra, Mádobí, Salánta, Ammágwa, Dádi-n-dúnia, Gabezáwa, Dóko, Kwínke-alla, Dangayáme, Gurjáwa, Zongonkilli, Abegáni, Sákwa-n-Kumbóto, Zango, Gezí, Ráfi mʿallem, Rími-n-Asbenáwa, Dawáki, Gunó, Ranó (the town mentioned in p. 72., as having formerly been the seat of a kingdom or principality by itself), Ténneger, Kiyáwa, Kadwáwa, Takaláfia, Katákatá, Gazóbi (a village consisting of scattered groups), Danzóshia, Gulú, Ganí, Tamberáwa, Dáhasa, Gorzo, Karáye, Káfi-n-Agúr, Rukadáwa, Bóda, Taríva, Fáki, Kokí, Dawáki-n-Dambámbara (properly Da-n-Bámbara), Katángeráwe, Katánga-babá, Katánga-káramá, Katkázubá, Mʿallem, Kwíwa, Bunkóri (a considerable market-place, with much cultivation of rice), Ya-n-kásari, Tuddum Bíllané, Bacheráwa, Yamáta, Demé, Demé-n-da-n-karfi, Tunfáfi, Kuddadefáwa, Zango-n-da-n-Áudu, Pagínkayi, Jájira, Fofá, Dangúgwa, Zango Mala Áudu, Jelli, Mádachí, Mákodé, Konshi-n-gwárta, Yákasé, Yóla, and others.

I will here add some of the chief routes connecting Kanó with the principal places around, and which will best show its central situation. As for the routes to Kúkawa, of which I forwarded an account to Europe in 1851, I shall omit them, as I had myself repeatedly sufficient occasion to become acquainted with this tract from my own observations. The route by Khadéja has been united with my own route.

I first give the route from Kanó to Zínder, the north-westernmost place of the empire of Bórnu, by way of Kazáure:—

1st day. Makóda, a large open place, consisting of cottages with clay walls and thatched roofs. The country level and densely inhabited. Arrive about the ʿaser.

2nd. Kazáure, residence of the governor Dámbo, formerly in direct dependence upon Sókoto, but at present in a certain degree of subordination to Kanó. The town is surrounded with a clay wall, and but thinly inhabited. A market is held every Monday. The neighbourhood of the town is rocky, and the country intervening between Kazáure and Makóda thickly covered with wood, without cultivation or an inhabited spot.

3rd. Mazánnia, a large place surrounded with a “kéffi” or stockade, said to be larger than Tasáwa; but the government of the town is generally divided, half of it belonging to Dáura, and the other half to Bórnu.

4th. Magáriyá, a large place with a kéffi, only about fifteen miles from the former. The surrounding country all covered with forest.

5th. Zínder, about ʿaser. There are no villages on the road except near Zínder.

I now add the road from Kazáure to Dáura, and from Dáura to Zínder. Keeping in a north-westerly direction from Kazáure, you reach on the first day, about ʿaser, Sándamu, an ancient town of considerable size, but with few inhabitants, and enter, on the following day, the town of Dáura, about two o’clock in the afternoon. The town of Dáura, which, as I have observed (p. 72.), is one of the oldest, if not the very oldest[150] settlement of the Háusa people; and here too the Islám seems to have been introduced at an earlier date, certainly not later than its introduction into Kátsena by the grandson of Maghíli, the missionary, as is stated, having been a man from Baghdád, of the name of Mohammed ʿAlí, who killed the dodó, or the old fetish lion. I have already mentioned the magic well; and there are many other interesting traditions current with regard to the older history of the place. Dáura is a large town, surrounded with a strong clay wall in good repair, but is only thinly inhabited, and the Thursday market is of no importance. It is the capital of a province, and the residence of a governor dependent only on the Emír el Múmenín, and would certainly have been visited by me in one of my wanderings, if the governor, whose name is the same as that of the governor of Kátsena (Mohammed Béllo), and whose character is much worse, had not been notorious as an energetic and warlike, but unjust and rapacious fellow, with whom it would be more difficult to deal than with the highway robbers in the wilderness of Dánkama. But I recommend this place strongly to the notice of future travellers, as a great many native stories relate to it. It was once conquered by a prince of Múniyó named Sóriyó. All the country around is at present a wilderness; and there is very little cultivation.

Going from Dáura to Zínder in a N.N.E. direction, you sleep the first night in Kúrni, or Kúrreni, a small village surrounded with a stockade, being the frontier-place of the province of Dáura in this direction. It is situated in the midst of the forest, and is distant from the capital about six hours.

2nd day. Arrive at an early hour in the forenoon at Máshi, a small place surrounded with a stockade, and belonging to Zínder. Every Wednesday a market is held here.

3rd. About ʿaser arrive at Bakí, a large place surrounded with a “kéffi.”

4th. Before noon arrive in Zínder. There are no villages on this road.

I now proceed to give the routes from Kanó towards the Bénuwé, which has been called Tshádda or Chádda in its lower course, merely from mistake, I think, while it has several other names. Záriya, or Zózó, the capital of the province of Zegzeg, was visited by Clapperton on his second journey; and its latitude can be laid down with certainty, its longitude with approximate correctness.[151] From this place some important routes, very frequently taken by native traders, and even sometimes by enterprising Arabs, branch off towards the places in the vicinity of the above-mentioned river. On the other hand, we have now, by Mr. Vogel’s observations, the exact position of Yákoba, the capital of the province Bolóboló, or Báuchi, and therefore generally called “Garú-n-Báuchi;” so that the most important places between Kanó and the river can be laid down with tolerable exactness. I will here only remark, that the general features of my hydrographical sketch of this district in 1852 have been entirely confirmed by Mr. Vogel’s observations, from which, although they are as yet very insufficiently known, it is clear that the central part of Báuchi, in which Yákoba is situated, is a high rocky plateau, the central ridge of which evidently forms the water-parting of the various rivers in opposite directions—the head-waters of the komádugu of Bórnu (generally called Yéou) towards the east, the Kadúna and Gurára (the Rari of Richard Lander), which unite near Bírni-n-Gwári, towards the west, and a branch of the Bénuwé, running first to the east and then turning southwards. The two most important points with regard to the connection of Kanó, Záriya, and Yákoba with the lower course of the Bénuwé, are the towns of Kéffi-n-Abdezénga and Láfiya Beréberé, while the latter of these places is also one of the chief centres whence spreads the dominion of the Fúlbe, with misery and devastation, over the neighbouring tribes.

I will here give the route from Kanó by way of Záriya to Kéffi-n-Abdezénga, which goes from Záriya almost directly southward. The stations are very short.

 1st day. Mádobí, a place with a market. Pass in the morning the “kogí,” or kogí-n-Kanó.

 2nd. Reach Bebéji about ten o’clock A.M.[152]

 3rd. About one o’clock P.M. arrive at Rími-n-Káura, a group of villages with a rivulet running east.

 4th. About nine o’clock A.M. reach Báki-n-Kamínda, a cluster of scattered villages, called by this name from a rivulet Kamínda or Kamánda, which skirts it.

 5th. About eleven o’clock A.M. reach a walled town called Da-n-Sóshia, rich in date-trees. Here is the frontier of the province of Kanó towards that of Záriya, marked by a large “kúrremi” dry in summer.

 6th. A little after noon reach a small river called Kubútutu, running east, but afterwards turning south and joining the Kadúna, which drains all this part of the country. On the bank of the rivulet is a village called Anshó.

 7th. About 11 o’clock A.M., after a journey through a woody country, reach Rúma, a large place but thinly inhabited, and surrounded with walls in decay.

 8th. About the same hour you reach a walled place called Likóro, where a market is held every other day. All the country is thickly wooded and uncultivated.

 9th. Between nine and ten o’clock in the morning, after having crossed a rivulet which sometimes presents difficulty in the rainy season, you arrive at Záriya.

10th. About noon arrive at a village called Ungwa Árendé. Small waterpools on the road.

11th. About eleven o’clock A.M. reach Kaséllu, a walled place with the wall in a state of decay, and with a market held every other day.

12th. About the same hour arrive at Gímba, a large walled place, but thinly inhabited.

13th. Reach Mátarí, a large place. Between Gímba and Mátarí, nearer the latter, is a kúrremi, which during the rainy season can be crossed only in boats.

14th. Kábi, a considerable walled market-place.

15th. Reach a small village called Kásabó, situated on a mountain-range running eastward. The whole country is mountainous; and a little before you reach Kásabó you pass a high mountain with a village on its top.

16th. Encamp in the forest called “Dáwa-n-serkí-n-Fáwa,” where there is a kúrremi, dry during the hot season.

17th. A small village of the district Kadára, ravaged by the Fúlbe.

18th. During the dry season you reach a place called Jére (not Tére), while in the rainy season you encamp on the shore of the Gurára, the chief branch of the Kadúna, which cannot be crossed but in boats. The country mountainous.

19th. Reach a small village called Kámané; country mountainous.

20th. A small place called Káterí, situated on a kogí, with water at all seasons of the year, and well wooded. It joins the Gurára.

21st. A straggling village called Góla-mínda, inhabited entirely by Fúlbe or Féllani. The country level, with mountains in the distance.

22nd. Kogáro, a considerable market place; country mountainous, irrigated by many streamlets.

23rd. Fajári, a small place with a wall in decay; country level, with plenty of water.

24th. Bagáji, a considerable walled market-place.

25th. Kéffi-n-Abdezénga, a large place, where a market is held every day. The country in general is flat, with a high mountain to the west. Plenty of watercourses.

Láfiya Beréberé, originally a colony of the Bórnu people, called Beréberé by the Háusáwa, is five days E.S.E. from Kéffi-n-Abdezénga, and two days and a half from a place called Toní, between Darróro and Kéffi. Darróro was visited by Richard Lander, who calls it Danroro; but this place, as well as the important place Katab (called by him Kuttup), has been laid down very erroneously from his indications. I therefore give here the

Route from Záriya by Katab to Darróro; first part S.E., then S.S.E.

 1st day. Egébbi (called Ejibi by Lander), a place surrounded with a wall, but not of large size.

 2nd. Dawáki, a middle-sized place, lying west from Káuru, a town which we shall soon connect with Kanó. About one day south from Dawáki lies a mountainous district, with the village Libélle, inhabited by pagans.

 3rd. Sháffero, a place surrounded with a wall, and dependent on Káuru. The inhabitants are said to eat dogs.

 4th. Encamp on the bank of the river Kadúna (báki-n-Kadúna), with a village N.E. from the river.

 7th. Katab, a district consisting of a great number of hamlets, very rich in honey, and with a good cultivation of sorghum, millet, cotton, and sesamum. A small rivulet or torrent intersects the district, running towards the north. Pass the two preceding nights in two small villages, the names of which my informant had forgotten; most probably they are identical with Gídan Bakáya (not G. Banaya) and Kála. One long day’s march N.E. from Katab, is the pagan district Sháwe, wherein the Kadúna is said to take its rise.

 8th. Kajé, a village situated on the top of a hill, other villages being scattered about in the plain.

 9th. Dangóma, a small slave-village belonging to Darróro, situated on the top of a mountain. About the middle of your day’s march you cross the river Gurára, running through a deep valley, and forming a cascade at some distance N.E. from Darróro. It runs westward, though in a very winding course, and joins the Kadúna near the town of Gwári. This is evidently the river which Lander calls Rári, and which, its course not being accurately observed by him, as he had to cross it repeatedly, has given rise to that unfortunate theory of Capt. William Allen, with regard to the connection of the Chadda with Lake Chád, or rather Tsád.

10th. Darróro, a town in a strong position, surrounded with an artificial wall only on the north side; still belonging to the province of Zegzeg. At some distance from it, in the plain, there is a new Féllani settlement called Jemáʿa-n-Darróro; the word jemmáʿa, or, as it is generally pronounced, jemmára, “the congregation,” being the characteristic word for the religious and political reformation of the Fúlbe. There is a direct road from Katab to Jemmáʿa, passing by the small open place called “Madáwaki-n-mútuwa,” where the mountainous district commences. It was in Darróro that Richard Lander thought that he was but a few miles distant from Yákoba, the capital of Báuchi, while in reality he seems to have been, in a direct line, about one hundred miles distant from it; and as this line, owing to the mountainous nature of the country and the wild and unsubdued spirit of its pagan inhabitants, is not passable, he was about a hundred and sixty miles from it by the ordinary track.

The Route from Jemmáʿa-n-Darróro to Kéffi-n-Abdezénga, with the Branch Road to Láfiya Beréberé.

1st day. Kogóm, a small place on the slope of the mountain, and inhabited by slaves. The neighbourhood is thickly covered with forest, through which, on the west side of the village, the Gurára winds along, being here navigable for boats, at least in the rainy season. Arrive at noon.

2nd. Gwári-n-kúrremi, a large open place in the wilderness; no hills. A small torrent runs N.W. in the direction of Káteri. About noon.

3rd. Toní, a large walled place with much cultivation and many hamlets dotting the neighbourhood; about noon. From hence a road leads to Láfiya Beréberé in three days, S.E.

4th. Likóro, a large town with a clay wall; the houses built half of clay, half of shíbki; a good day’s march. There is another more circuitous way from Toní to Likóro, passing by Tonúng-mádaki, a place situated in a valley with much forest, and not far north from two places surrounded with clay walls, one of which is called Tonúng-wámbay—and by “Gulbí-n-túnka,” a small open place with much cultivation, which has received this name from the Háusa travellers, on account of its being situated on a small stream (gulbí) running northwards.

5th. Kéffi-n-Abdezénga, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, and situated at the eastern foot of the mountains; the town partly yumbú, partly shíbki. Arrive about dhohor.

Routes uniting Kéffi-n-Abdezénga with Tóto and Fánda.

From Kéffi-n-Abdezénga to Tóto there are several roads, the stations of which are at the following places:—

 1st day. Gongóndara, a large place with a wall in decay. Plenty of water; the mountains are at some distance.

 2nd. Gwágwa, a middle-sized town surrounded with a clay wall; to the east a considerable mountain-group.

 3rd. Támma, a large walled place in a plain with much water.

 4th. Dógeri, a place of middle size, the frontier-place (in 1851) of the extensive province of Zegzeg, and of the independent kingdom of Fánda.[153]

 5th. Ógobe, a large walled market-place belonging to Tóto.[154] The neighbourhood is a plain abounding in water.

 6th. Ganó, a considerable open place; country flat; plenty of trees, particularly of those called mája.

 7th. Enter Tóto in the morning.

Another road, sometimes uniting with the former, at others diverging from it, passes by the following places:

 1st day. Yánkardé; short march.

 2nd. Gwágwa; short march.

 3rd. Bókoko.

 4th. A large village of the Bása; about noon.

 5th. A large town situated in a plain, and surrounded with a clay wall; the inhabitants speak the Bása language, but pay tribute to Záriya. My informant called this town Gorgóndara; but I think he must be mistaken.

 6th. Wári, a large open place with much cultivation of corn; the whole country is flat. Arrive about noon.

 7th. Kargo, a village. The country level, and covered with forest.

 8th. Gwári-n-Kargo, a village, the frontier-place of the territory of Zegzeg (that is to say, in 1851; but since the end of the year 1853, it appears, both from what Dr. Baikie and his companions learnt on their interesting and successful expedition up the river Bénuwé, and from what I myself heard on my return to Kanó from my journey to Timbúktu, that the Fúlbe, partly by treachery, partly by warfare, have made great progress in this direction, extending their depredations to the very bank of the river). A small stream or torrent skirts the side of the village, running towards the Kadúna; here is more cultivation. Arrive in the forenoon.

 9th. Another open village of the Bása, with a good deal of cultivation; arrive about noon.

10th. Ungwa Limáng, a small village inhabited by the people of the prince of Tóto; rocky ground, and a small rivulet or brook.

11th. About two o’clock in the afternoon arrive in Tóto, a large town protected on the west side by a woody fáddama or valley, and on the other sides surrounded with a clay wall. The town is said to be of about the same enormous dimensions as Kanó (that is to say, about fifteen miles in circuit), but more densely inhabited, and divided into two distinct quarters, the western and the eastern, the former being inhabited by the natives, or the Katáwa[155], as they are called by the Háusa people, who have a distinct language (probably related to the Bása and Núpe languages), and are pagans; while the eastern quarter is the dwelling-place of the Moslemín, viz. people from Kátsena, Kanó, and Bórnu, who have a chief for themselves, called el Imám, a name corrupted by the Háusa people into that of Limáng. This Limáng is regarded in general by the travellers as the prince; but, according to more accurate information, the town and province of Tóto seems to be under the direct government of the sultan of Tánda (not Fánda), whose name is Shémmage, and who receives a great quantity of European goods, chiefly muskets, which form his strength, from the inhabitants of Tágara or Kotú-n-karfi, as the district is generally called by the Háusa people, near the junction of the Bénuwé with the Kwára. This prince, by his energy and watchfulness, had kept the conquering Fúlbe in awe; and he prohibited, with the utmost diligence, suspicious people from being admitted into his town. He may therefore, even after the fall of Fánda or Pánda, which was in a wretched condition, and was taken by treachery in the beginning of 1853, have preserved his independence; but I am not quite sure about it. Be this as it may, surrounded on all sides by enemies, he will scarcely be able to hold out long. Tóto, as far as I was able to make out (although there does not appear to have ever been much intercourse between the two towns), is distant from Fánda from thirty to thirty-five miles E.N.E. It is, besides, three days from Kotú-n-karfi, a place the position of which is well established, and four days from Sansan Ederísu, a place likewise well known from the Niger expeditions, so that we can place Tóto with tolerable exactness.

I here subjoin the itinerary from Tóto to Sansan Ederísu:—

 1st day. Zángó-n-kará, a village inhabited by Núpe people, and situated in a valley tolerably wooded.

 2nd. Agáya, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, dependent on the governor of Záriya, but inhabited by Núpe people. Soon after you leave Zángó-n-kará in the morning, you cross a river called Gúrma by my informant, who crossed it in a boat; it runs northward. The country is well cultivated, and many villages are scattered about.

 3rd. Kúrremi, a town surrounded with a stockade and a clay wall, but of smaller size than Agáya. A small rivulet, not navigable, skirts the town, running northwards; it is called Kúdduba.

 4th. Sansan Ederísu, a large open village not far from the shore of the Kwára, opposite Égga. The country well cultivated.

I will now join Katab with Kanó.

Route from Kanó to Katab.

1st day. Bebéji, the town mentioned above; in the morning you cross a small watercourse, with a village on its south border, called Báki-n-kogí, then pass Góra, and in the afternoon Mádobí, with a brook running towards Bebéji; arrive here at sunset.

2nd. Báuda, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, and lying around a rocky eminence. In the morning cross the rivulet Kamánda. A short march. Báuda is the furthest town of Kanó in this direction.

3rd. Páke, an open place on a deep rivulet, which (often) is not fordable; it runs westward, and seems to be identical with the kogí-n-Kubútutu, which is crossed on the road from Bebéji to Záriya, near the village Ánsho. There are several small hamlets on the roadside; but cultivation is not very extensive. Arrive a little after noon.

4th. Kó-zintú, a walled place, the huts consisting of reeds; arrive at noon. No village on the road, but a good deal of cultivation.

5th. Zintú, a large walled place with clay houses, on a considerable rivulet passing by Záriya, and running westward. It is said not to be fordable (probably only in the rainy season), two boats being constantly employed for carrying over travellers. It has no fish. I think it is the same river with the kogí-n-Gédia, which is crossed on the road from Kanó to Sabóngarí. A short march.

6th. Káuru, a large town surrounded with a clay wall and lying on a considerable and navigable rivulet running eastward (not westward); arrive in the afternoon. The country is covered with dense forest.

7th. Sháffero, the village mentioned in p. 564.

8th. Gída-n-bakáya, an open village inhabited by pagans, but under the dominion of the Fúlbe; arrive at noon, having crossed in the morning the Kadúna running westward. The country very woody.

9th. Katab; pass in the morning the village Kalá.

Route from Kanó to Yákoba.

1st day. You arrive early in the forenoon at Sákwa, a place situated on a running stream called “kogí-n-Sákwa.” In the morning you pass the village of Dawáki. Sákwa was visited by Clapperton.

2nd. About two o’clock P.M. arrive at Dell, a considerable town said to be larger than Tasáwa, after having passed another populous place, not much less than Dell, called Gérko. The whole country is well cultivated; and there is but little jéji, or uncultivated land, on the road. In Róro, S.W. about one day from Dell, there are mines.

3rd. A little after noon arrive at Párna, a place not so large as Dell, and situated at the foot of a mountain, by the side of a small rivulet. During the morning you pass a village named Gédia, between which and Párna there is a little wilderness.

4th. At noon you arrive at a place called Tébki (probably so called from a pond), situated at the foot of the mountains, and the frontier-place between the province of Kanó and that of Báuchi. The whole march leads through a wild mountainous country, covered with wood.

5th. Arrive in the morning at Sabó-n-garí, a place situated in the plain, and important on account of the road from Záriya (the details of which I shall directly subjoin) joining in this place the track which leads from Kanó. The country is well cultivated; and the people during the rainy season dwell in huts, scattered through the fields, while during the dry season they retire to the tops of the mountains. Soon after leaving Tébki in the morning, you cross a small brook, and then pass a place called Shébshi.

6th. A place whose name I cannot make out at present.

7th. Zaránda, a considerable village situated in the plain, while towards the east rises a very lofty mountain mass, said to be the highest mountain in Bolóboló or Báuchi. The whole country is under cultivation; and hamlets or small villages are met in every direction. Close to Zaránda is a rivulet, said by my informant to run eastward.[156] Arrive in the afternoon.

8th. Yákoba (thus the name is generally pronounced, although more correctly the accent ought to be given to the second syllable, thus, Yakóba, or rather Yakúba) the capital of the province of Bolóboló or Báuchi, founded by Yakúb the father of the present governor Ibrahíma. Selmán (properly ʿOthmán), the name given by this informant to the governor, is, I think, the name of his brother, who during his long absence has the government of the town. The town is large, and has twelve gates; there is no running water near the town, and the inhabitants supply themselves from ráfona, or hollows. All the country is under cultivation, and the neighbourhood is rich in hamlets. The road keeps along the plain, all laid out in fields, shaded with trees.

The character of this town, which I have thus laid down from information, has, in opposition to the prevalent opinion that Yákoba is situated on a river, been entirely confirmed by Mr. Vogel’s very important journey. Coming from the east, he found Yákoba situated on a stony elevated level, without any running stream, but well supplied with water, which collects round the walls of the town. He has found its position to be 10° 47′ 30″ N. lat., and 9° 28′ 0″ E. of Gr. In consequence of the long absence of the governor Ibrahíma (who, having sworn not to return to his capital until he shall have subdued a warlike pagan tribe, has been living now seven years in his “sansánne,” or encampment, about 65 miles N.N.W. from the capital), Mr. Vogel found Yákoba rather thinly inhabited. He has not yet forwarded an account of the elevation of this place; but I believe that it will not be much less than two thousand feet.[157]

Route from Katab to Yákoba.

1st day. About ʿaser reach Alhájji, a considerable village belonging to the province of Zegzeg, and situated at the west foot of a mountain. The whole road leads through forest.

2nd. About noon arrive at Sabó-n-bírni, a small village consisting of shíbki. The road is partly covered with forest, and partly cultivated; but there are no villages, the people, during the rainy season, coming from a great distance to cultivate the country.

3rd. About noon reach Ríruwe, a considerable place surrounded by an earthen wall, and having a well-attended market every Tuesday. Ríruwe is at a short distance south from Sabó-n-garí; and many persons going from Kanó to Yákoba, prefer joining this road and leaving the other at Sabó-n-garí.

4th. About one o’clock P.M. reach Úmbutú, or Mbutú, a village situated at the foot of a mountain, on the top of which there is another place of the same name. The inhabitants, who are very fierce, wear a bone stuck through the chin. They do not pay any tribute to the Féllani of Záriya nor to those of Yákoba, and constantly intercept the communication—as happened, indeed, in 1851, during my stay in Kanó. Near the first village is a rivulet which joins the Gurára, one of the tributary streams of the Kwára. The whole march leads through forest.

5th. About one o’clock P.M. reach Wárji, a village situated at the foot of a large mountain extending far to the west, on the top of which there are other villages of the same name, whose inhabitants wage war against the Féllani. Informant states that the inhabitants of the valley pay tribute to the governor of Kanó; but I think he means that of Báuchi. Cattle of a particular kind called múturú are frequent here, much smaller than the ox, with shorter legs, without the hump, and of a grey colour. I saw a specimen of this kind afterwards in Kúkawa.

6th. About ʿaser reach Mélanláwel, a considerable place with a clay wall, situated in the plain at the S.E. foot of the large mountain mass already mentioned. The whole country is laid out in cultivated fields.

7th. After ʿaser arrive at Zaránda; the country partly wild and partly cultivated.

8th. At noon reach Yákoba.

I now proceed to give the routes from different points, obtained by the construction of the former itineraries, and corrected also by the recent observations of European travellers, to Wukári, the capital of that very interesting country Korórofa, which, unfortunately, was not reached by the late expedition on the river Bénuwé.

Close to Láfiya Beréberé, begins the territory of the Dóma, the capital of which, called likewise Dóma (at least by my informants), is only one day from Láfiya, and five days from Kéffi-n-Abdezénga, the road from this latter place to Dóma passing by Haríri, a large town still dependent upon Záriya, and distant three days from the former, and two from the latter town. This Dóma is a large walled town; but already in the year 1851 its governor was obliged to pay a small tribute to the governor of Záriya. A great number of Nyffáwa, or people from Núpe, are said to live here.

From Dóma there seem to be two roads to Wukári, although I frankly confess that the information which I obtained with regard to them, as well as to other parts of Korórofa, was not so clear as I might have wished. One of these routes crosses the river at a spot called Chínkay; the other does not name the ferry. Chínkay is not among the places laid down hereabouts in the survey of the Bénuwé expedition; but it is evidently either identical with, or near to Anyíshi.

From Dóma my informant goes to Kúberé; thence to Kadérku (the Bridge), a town belonging to Dóma; thence to Kiyána, or Keána, a considerable market-place, which he calls “bírni-n-Korórofa, kása-n-Báuchi,” the inhabitants paying tribute as well to the Púllo governor of Báuchi as to the native king of Korórofa. From this place, which is often mentioned in the proceedings of the Bénuwé expedition, my informant goes to Túnga, which he calls “Garí-n-gisherí,” stating the memorable fact, not mentioned in those proceedings, that salt is obtained there. Close to Túnga is a kogí or rivulet joining the Bénuwé, or rather, I think, a creek of the river. My informant then crosses the river and reaches Chínkay, which lies at a little distance—as he states, in a southerly direction—from a large place called Owí. From Chínkay he proceeds to Ákkona, which is evidently identical with the Akkwana of Crowther, who, however, does not mention the interesting fact that “kohol” or antimony is obtained there; from Ákkona to Jíddu (a place not mentioned by Crowther), in a locality with small rocky mounts starting up from the plain; thence to Árfu, and thence again to Wukári.

The other shorter route (if, indeed, it be complete) goes from Dóma to Mínchi, which is called “Bírni kása-n-Kiyána,” a walled town of the territory of the Kiyána; thence to Agáya (evidently different from the place of the same name between Tóto and Égga, and therefore by one of my informants called “Mínchi-n-Agáya); from this directly to Árfu, crossing the Bénuwé somewhere below Anyíshi; thence by Fíya to Wukári.

I now give an itinerary from Darróro to Wukári, unfortunately of the same abridged and incomplete character. Proceeding at a slow rate with short stations, my informant goes first to a large place called Zúngur; thence crossing a small rivulet, which he calls by the very unscientific name of “kogí-n-Mamúdu” (the river of Makhmúd), to Dull, a large but dilapidated place dependent on Yákoba; thence to Gar, a small place in a mountainous district: thence to Búrrum, the country continuing mountainous; thence to Gémbat; thence to Wáze, a very large town, said (probably with some exaggeration) to be as large as Kanó, and the residence of a governor or chief named Hamma ben ʿAbdu. It stands upon a mountain or hill; and a river or creek is said to skirt the town.

This important place can be reached in three good days’ marches from Yákoba, sleeping the first night, after a very long and fatiguing day’s journey through a mountainous country (granite, as it seems), in Gásge, a town as large as Ngórnu, inhabited by Fúlbe and native pagans, and the second in Yúnguru. Yúnguru is a town inhabited by the conquering tribe, while the native pagans live in straggling villages along the valleys. This is another long day’s march, and the country mountainous. The third day’s journey is shorter; and Wáze is reached after about eight hours’ march. In the dry season at least, when the river may be easily crossed either by swimming or even occasionally by fording it, a good tourist will reach Wukári from Wáze in one day. My informant, proceeding at a slow rate, and perhaps not in a direct line, went from this to Dámpar, a place near the Bénuwé, where it has come under the notice of the Bénuwé expedition; then, crossing several creeks which he calls “ráfi-n-dórina,” and “kogí-n-Deñi,” and the river itself, passed the places Mákera, Usé (a small village in the plain), then Aíkiri (with a kogí) and a place which he calls Zangó Ladán (probably the station, “zangó,” where a toll or tax, “ladán,” is paid, and thus at length reached the capital Wukári.

I have also a soi-disant itinerary from Láfiya Beréberé to Wukári; but I will only name the places situated on this route without stating the order in which they succeed each other. These are Oví, which seems to be a large town distant one day from Ázzara, which is said to be west from Aíkiri, the place mentioned above; then Kíbi, Dóya, Áboné, Aíro, Kanjé, Agwatáshi, Dédderé.

I will now say a few words about Wukári, the capital of Korórofa, which it is much to be regretted that the last expedition on the river was unable to reach; but the next will, I hope, be more successful in this respect[158], if they have the good fortune of finding the country still in a flourishing state. Even the name of this important place was scarcely known[159] before my researches in 1851, while the name of the country, Korórofa, though well known to former geographers, had been erased from recent maps. Wukári was placed in my map close to the river, a few miles only too far north and east; but had I been able to correct it according to my latest information, from which I learnt that it lay not on the main river itself, but on a small branch[160], I should have laid it down exactly in the right position.

Wukári lies on the west side of a small rivulet, called, by my Háusa informants, “kogí-n-Kalám,” which is said to join the Bénuwé, or, as the great river is called in at least one of the dialects of Korórofa, which seems not to have come under the notice of the expedition, “Zánfir.” In a straight line, Wukári is only a good morning’s walk (“tafíyan hantsi”)—that is, about ten miles—from the shores of the Bénuwé. The town is said to be very large, even larger than Kanó; not however, like the latter, embracing a wide extent of fields, but densely inhabited to the very walls. The people do not drink the water of the rivulet which skirts their town, but supply their wants from ponds in its interior, probably like those in Kanó. They are distinguished by their dark complexion, and features not disfigured by shasháwa or tattooing, by their long hair and their neat shirts, or rather plaids, “zénne,” which they wrap round the body. Indeed the inhabitants of Korórofa are celebrated all over this part of Africa for their cotton cloth, which is said to be of very fine texture, but also very narrow, being only the breadth of two fingers. They are said to have a peculiar kind of cotton called “worzi” by the Arabs, and mentioned already by that accurate and princely geographer Abú ʿObéd Allah el Bekri, in 1068, though without naming the district of Negroland where the plant grew[161], and not without some exaggeration. There seems to be a kind of coffee indigenous to the country. A great deal of dóya, or yam, is cultivated; and áyaba (Musa paradisiaca) seems to be the most common tree in the southern provinces. The only essential defect under which this nation suffers, besides their division into many separate tribes, seems to be the despotism of the government, which evidently checks also the energy of the people in defending their independence against the restless Fúlbe, who are constantly gaining ground, and, if Her Britannic Majesty’s government do not hasten to interfere, will in a very short time take possession of this kingdom.

All the handicrafts, as those of blacksmiths, saddlers, &c., are under the immediate control of the king, and can be exercised only by his own people. He monopolizes the foreign trade, none of his subjects having a right to buy. The name of the present king is said to be Ánju Zénki. His authority, nevertheless, does not now seem to extend, in reality, far beyond the walls of Wukári; and the Háusa traders, while they give him the title of “serkí-n-gulbí” (lord of the river), call the governor of Chónkoy, or Gónkoy, “serkí-n-géro” (lord of the corn, or rather millet), intimating that the country-towns are rather in the hands of this latter prince. The inhabitants of Wukári, as well as of the towns in the interior, are expressly stated to be armed only with spears, none but the people near the banks of the Bénuwé using bows. Small articles are bought and sold for iron hoes, called “akíka,” of which forty will buy a slave; more valuable objects are bartered for salt or clothes.[162]

East, about one day’s journey from Wukári, are said to be Júggum and Gónkoy: Júggum is the name of a considerable place; but as for Gónkoy, I was unable to ascertain whether it was the name of a district or a town. Gónkoy is said to be three days and a half from Bú-mánda, the stations on the road being at the villages or towns of Úriyó, Úrbo, then, near the máyo, Mantáje (?), Bú-mánda being reached on the fourth day; and I have another itinerary leading from Bú-mánda to Júggum in five days, through a country desolated by those predatory wars by which the Fúlbe are so distinguished. Only one day before reaching Júggum there is a place inhabited by pagans, called Gánte. I will further mention here some places around Wukári: though, from the imperfect character of my information, I am not able to lay them down on the map, nevertheless I hope a list of them will prove useful to the next expedition up the river. Along the south side of the river are said to lie east from Gónkoy the places Balli, Júbu, Tinto; one day south from Wukári the town Kónte; then westward, and towards the north-west, the following places, some of them on the north side of the Bénuwé: Kúrgoy (a walled town), Úngosálla, Toríña, Ákata (near a rivulet, the residence of a chief called Jímmi), Kondé, Bémbem, Mínchi-n-Agáya (on the north side of the Bénuwé), Kátsena Alla (a name most probably corrupted by the Háusa traders), a large town situated on the east side of a river or rivulet. Between Kátsena Alla and Fánda there are said to be the following places: Zangó kogí-n-Alla (a whimsical fatáki name—that is to say, used by the native traders), with Mínchi or Múnchi (Mitsi) inhabitants, Dúchi-n-Díkku (a place situated between two mountains), the town Gedímmir, and the town Áyirkú-n-girké.

Korórofa does not appear to be the native name either of the country or of the tribe; but I cannot exactly say whether it only originates with the Háusa traders, and whether the name Djúku, or Júku, applies to the whole nation or only to a portion of it. Bábai, or Báibai, I think is not the original native name of the people, but only an appellation given them by the Háusa traders. There are certainly several different dialects prevailing in the country, since that of which I wrote down some hundred words from the mouth of the Koána or Kwána Ábbade, a native of the village Búmánda, appears to have very little, if any, relation to the Tiwi of Koelle, or the Mitsi of Crowther, or to any other mentioned by them; but it must be borne in mind that the gentlemen composing the expedition seem not to have collected any specimens whatever of the Djúku, which they themselves state to be the language of Korórofa, and I feel satisfied that the dialect spoken by the Kwána differs but little from that of the people of Wukári. The Kwána (called Konáwa by the Háusa people), at least those of Júggum, have the curious and disgusting custom of forming an artificial ulcer behind the ear, which in Wadáy is the distinguishing mark of valour. They wear white and black shirts, and have horses and cattle. They cultivate various species of Negro corn, and have many large trees. This same informant of mine, Ábbade, named to me the following divisions of the Korórofa, which I give here as an imperfect notice, hoping that it may lead succeeding travellers to further inquiries and to clearer information: the Agáwi, Jímmolo, Churíbolo (the second syllable is not clear in my manuscript journal), Bashikkári, Jemsáli, Bakawelíno, Kéwe, Ndau, Bínderi, Jáufeni.

Having given what little information I have been able to gather with regard to that interesting region on the river Bénuwé, I now proceed to subjoin a few details illustrating the geography of the provinces between Yákoba and Katágum; for the country between the former place and the Bénuwé will, I hope, soon be amply illustrated by Mr. Vogel’s observations, who seems to have traversed the triangular tract of country inclosed between Gómbe, Yákoba, and Hamárruwa in several directions, and to have come into intimate, though at times hostile, contact with the natives. The position of Gómbe, which he has fixed by astronomical observations in lat. 10° 49′ N., and long. 10° 16′ E., is an important check upon the construction of the materials obtained by me with regard to this tract of country; and I openly confess that, with regard to Gómbe, which I had no means of connecting with a southern point, I have erred in laying it down much too far south, while with respect to the latitude assigned by me to Hamárruwa, which I was able to connect with Yóla, I have scarcely erred a single mile—a result which I hope will inspire some confidence in my numerous geographical deductions from native information.

I start from Katágum, a place twice visited by Captain Clapperton, and laid down by him correctly, no doubt, with regard to latitude, while with regard to longitude it has to be shifted, as I shall elsewhere show, about forty geographical miles further west.

Route from Katágum to Gómbe, the Capital of Bobéru.

1st day. Early in the morning, between nine and ten o’clock, you reach Sókkuwa, a large place surrounded by an earth wall on the western bank of the “kogí-n-Katágum,” the water of which is used by the inhabitants for drinking. In the dry season there is no stream of running water, but merely stagnant pools. The houses of Sókkuwa are built partly of yumbú (clay), partly of shíbki (reed). A market is held here every Saturday. On the road many small villages are passed.

2nd. About eleven o’clock arrive at Kéffi, a large village surrounded by a stockade, and belonging to the province of Katágum. Many small villages on the road.

3rd. An hour after noon reach Hardáwa, a large place surrounded with a clay wall, also under Katágum. On the road are many villages. The soil consists of sand, and trees are scarce.

4th. Arrive at Mésau, a large place surrounded with a clay wall, capital of the province of the same name, and residence of a governor whose name, or rather title, at present is Yeríma. The houses consist of clay walls with thatched conical roofs, the palace of the governor alone being built entirely of earth. A considerable market is held here every Friday. It seems very remarkable that the inhabitants of this town are said to be all Fúlbe or Féllani. The soil all around consists of sand.

5th. About noon Dárasó, a large walled place belonging to the province of Báuchi, to the capital of which leads a frequented route from hence, which I shall subjoin immediately. In the morning you cross a rivulet in the midst of the forest.

6th. About two or half-past two o’clock P.M. reach Tawíya, a large place with an earthen wall now in decay; most of the inhabitants pagans; the whole country covered with dense forest. N.B. The road from Dárasó turns a little east from south.

7th. Early in the morning, about nine o’clock, arrive at Gómbe, a large walled place and the capital of the province Bobéru, which is said to have received its name from the late governor: the name of the present one is Koriyénga; his house is the only good building in the town.

Route from Dárasó to Yákoba.

 1st day. About the ʿaser reach Sóro, a small open place situated at the western foot of a rock. The road lies through a mountainous country, the first half of it being thickly wooded.

 2nd. About one o’clock P.M. arrive at Kírfi, a large open place at the foot of the rocks, inhabited entirely by pagans. The whole road is intersected by high mountains with perennial springs.

 3rd. About eleven o’clock A.M. reach Týrrem, a large open place surrounded by mountains towards the east and south. On the road you pass several small villages situated on the tops of the mountains, and inhabited by pagans.

 4th. Early in the morning, about nine o’clock, arrive at Yákoba; all the road mountainous, the tops of the mountains being inhabited.

N.B. The route from Gómbe to Yákoba I shall not give, as my imperfect itinerary will, I hope, soon be superseded by the rich materials of Mr. Vogel and his companion Corporal Macguire. I have, however, many materials for the district hereabout, which may be laid down with great approximative certainty as soon as an accurate basis is obtained by Mr. Vogel’s route. For the same reason I will not give the itinerary from Gómbe to Gújeba, but only connect one important point of this route—Dúkku, which I hope will have been touched at by my friend, with Yóla.

This route from Yóla to Dúkku is very dangerous, and is not now taken by the Fúlbe; but such was the case in the times of their greatest youthful vigour. I will only observe that Dúkku lies one day and a half E. by N. from Gómbe. My informant, Mʿallem Katúri, starts from Yóla.

 1st day. After crossing the Bénuwé, pass through the mountainous district of the Zéna.

 2nd. District of the Úrgeni, another pagan tribe living on the mountains.

 3rd. District of the Tángalé, a tribe with whom Mr. Vogel has, on his more western route from Hamárruwa to Gómbe, come in contact.

 4th. Fánda, another pagan tribe.

 5th. Dembé.

 6th. Chongóm. All these are independent pagan tribes, the country being mountainous. Road very unsafe.

 7th. Téra, a settlement of the Fúlbe of Bobéru; here security commences.

 8th. Ína, a large town of pagans in a state of subjection. At the foot of the mountains is a torrent running west, sometimes not fordable; it probably joins the northern branch of the Bénuwé.

 9th. Kámbo, a pagan village.

10th. Kom, a pagan village.

11th. Dúkku.

Dúkku is two days from Gómbe:—

 1st. Wángelé.

 2nd. Gómbe, the present residence of Kóriyénga, the son of Bobéru the Púllo conqueror from whom the province has received its name, and the brother of Suléy. It is situated on the south side of a large watercourse called Náfada. This place was visited by Mr. Vogel in 1855, and found from observation to be in lat. 10° 49′ N., long. 10° 16′ E. from Gr.

Route from Katágum to Shéra, S.S.W.

1st day. About ʿaser reach Gubú, a large open place belonging to the province of Katágum. The country open, partly cultivated and inhabited, and partly covered with forest.

2nd. About eleven o’clock reach Úzum, a small open village belonging to the province of Katágum. The whole country well cultivated, with numerous villages.

3rd. About noon arrive at Shéra, a considerable place, the capital of a province of the Fulfúlde empire of Sókoto, and residence of a governor. The place is fortified by nature, its position among the rocks, which surround it on all sides, leaving only a narrow approach from N.W. and S.; otherwise, there is no wall. Most of the houses are built partly of clay, partly of reeds, while the house of the governor consists entirely of clay. Most if not all of the inhabitants seem to belong to the race of the conquerors; the consequence is, that there is neither industry nor commerce, and the market is of no importance.

I here subjoin a list of the more important places of the province of Shéra, or Shíra, from which it will appear that this territory, although heretofore scarcely known by name, is not inconsiderable, though greatly reduced from its ancient extent, when the whole district round Fágam belonged to it. This comprises the following places:—Fágam, bírni-n-Máshi, Hósobo-bérajá, Géllamáng, Rábadí, Gerétti, Dándang, Tóba, Matsángo, Yélku, Zúmborúm-daffatúwo. At the present day there still belong to the province of Shéra, besides the capital (likewise called Shéra), Kúrba, Géade, Dóggo, Dógwa, Kádgo, Kárgo, Rími Táshirá, Ándobám, Dógo-gawán, Dógo-kawé, Dógo-dekáwen, Dógo-dúchi, Dógo-bángaré, Dógo-damwé, Dezína, Túngom, Gowála, Zábi, Sabáwa, Byllum, Béchimé (on a rock), Danguzózo, Yellwá garí-n-da-n-Háwa, Gumár, Zákkuwa, Jerégo, Chínnadé, Hardáwa (I cannot say whether identical with the place of the same name mentioned above), Goráng (east from the latter), Ázeré (with iron mines), Chínnadé madáshi, Daláren, Kúrke, Túmperé, Dúnkowy, Póngi, Zagédebá, Mógonshí, Gadáber, Cherácherá, Gadáwu, Degá, Goré, Itésh, Jóga, Wóliyá, Gósamé (“garí-n-dáffa kárfi,” place for smelting iron), Tsáuni, Kolá (“úri-n-saráuta,” “the seat of [the old] government,” where all the rulers of the country are buried), Sófo-n-garí, Gámbaná, Lájewá, Zíbbek, Máshemá, Bangaráti, Sírko, Gámbakí, Káwada, Máchi-n-káya, Dingáya, garí-n-Mallinzáki, Hírfi, Úngobá or Ngobá, Gádaráima, Kóndokó, Rasáwu, Kórko, Bárring, Mánakó, Wódufá, Tsogú, Kúrnokay, Láfiya garí-n-Berdagúngome (da-n-ghaladíma Shéra), Lanzedóguwa, Ajángara, Zámmaga, Fógo, Sáwi shéli-n-jíka-n-Mallinzáki (the residence of the grandson of Mallinzáki), Yáyu, Dagáro, Kúkokí, Bilkáchuwa, Farí-n-rúwa, Kósomé, Árzamú, Yákasé, Áffotu, Uzum Zándan, Jegás, Chókkoti, Chafágo, Degágitó, Galinámarí, Kádiya, Jándogo, Zagáña, Gorán, Nasaráwa, Kílla.

I now subjoin the short itinerary from Shéra to Yákoba, west a little south.

1st day. Between one and two o’clock P.M. arrive at Fágam, a place larger than Shéra, surrounded with a clay wall, being the frontier-town of the province of Kanó towards the S.E. The country is flat.