On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511, representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to have belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000 virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St. Sebastian presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our Lord.
Aix: Picture Gallery.
The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to the church of St. Jean and the Picture Gallery adjoining; free on Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th cent. by the Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the left of the altar is the tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de Provence.
On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, inscriptions, and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large collection of paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have either labels or numbers.
The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits about the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,” are flat and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around Aix is reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged is—the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather plucked, by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are large, as in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be allowed to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The trees are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.
Rians. Meyrargues.
(For the following see maps, pages 66 and 123.) Coach daily from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. E. The castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the culminating point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire mountains. Rians, pop. 2900, Inn: Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards. Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½ m. N., with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou, in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is Peyrolles (pop. 1200. Inn: Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René.
Meyrargues (pop. 2000. Inn: Reynaud) is situated with its castle in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from Rians.
Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. W. Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from Pelissanne is Lambesc.
Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther. In the village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de la Vie, visited by pilgrims. Lambesc, 14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive oil and silk form the principal industries.
7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is Gardanne, pop. 3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under Carnoules, p. 142.)
From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac. 3¼ m. S. from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see p. 66), 12¾ m. E.
Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and 7 miles north from Marseilles, is the station of L’Estaque, a village on the sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the valley of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at Marseilles 2d December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis XIV., to the glory of which his genius had contributed. He was the youngest of three brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor stonemason, who died while Pierre was still a boy.
Marseilles (see p. 111). Cabs and the omnibuses from all the principal hotels await passengers in the large open court just outside the arrival side of the railway station. At the east end of the departure side of the railway station is the Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the prices are rather more than moderate.
172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins, Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil, Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.
Maps, pages 26, 46, 56 and 66.
NÎMES
172
LYONS: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing
Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop.
1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle
converted into a school. 4 m. farther is Givors-canal, where the Nîmes line
separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of
Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by
the coal barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The
train now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400,
famous for chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to
Ampuis (opposite Vaugris), pop.
2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and chestnuts, and
possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which 46 acres
belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of France,
remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It is a
little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by
rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white
wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay,
pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. Inns:
H. Commerce; Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by
coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of
Virieux castle. 7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway
viaduct of 66 arches.
LYONS
NÎMES
39¼
132¾
PEYRAUD, pop. 400.
Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to Grenoble, 60 m.
E. by Rives and Voreppe. Annonay, pop. 16,500, built in the hollow and on
the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the confluence of the Déôme
and the Cance. Inn: H. Midi, in the principal square,
occupying the centre of the low town.
The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The
Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers
Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d
June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one
of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed
the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by coach, traversing a
beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends
9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. Inn: France. Bourg, as
the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on
the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains
covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes the
castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a
vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered
with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide
travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau
called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends
to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St. Etienne, and La Rivière
2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is Tournon.
Tournon.
56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with which it is connected by two suspension bridges, is Tournon, pop. 6100, on the Rhône. Hôtel de l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the landing-place from the Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily reach from Tournon many of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel is the castle of the Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on lofty early pointed arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal industries. Coach daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs., ascending all the way (see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.; to St. Agrève, 9¼ hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. 3 m. N. from Tournon is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p. 46.)
LYONS
NÎMES
65½
106½
SAINT PERAY, pop. 3000.
Inn: H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also omnibus for
Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the station,
situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The vineyards
here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which is natural,
not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is the case
with the other champagnes.
69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by the Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, La Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. 2½ m. farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p. 46.)
La Voulte. St. Sauveur. Le Cheilard.
LYONS
NÎMES
77
95
LA VOULTE, pop. 5000.
Inn: H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway and steamboat
stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank and on the
steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit are the
Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by Bernard
Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in 1582,
who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and
the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large
iron-foundry, employing 170 men.
The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the
decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. Inn:
H. Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The
water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily
from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs.,
and to St. Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places
separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and
15 m. S.E. from Le Cheilard. (See map,
p. 46.) St.
Sauveur, pop. 2000. Inns: Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily
situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high
rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled
terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut,
chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots
vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is
itself terraced the greater part of the way. A few miles up the
river, opposite the village Chalançon, Inn: H. Astier, is a
very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, Le Cheilard, 2130 ft. above
the sea, pop. 3500. Inn: H. Courtial. This, the great
diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow
streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty
terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon.
Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far
as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges
northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St.
Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the
Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. E. from Le Puy, near the river
Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.)
Saint Sauveur to Le Beage by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St. Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. St. Pierreville, 1788 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100. Inns: Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. before reaching Marcols is the clean little village of Olbon, on both sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and a Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.
Marcols. Lachamp-Raphaél.
6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is Marcols, 3380 ft. above the sea, a small village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère. Inn: H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs. per day, with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is 28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols 6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m.
The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of steep terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation, is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A little farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from Mezillac the road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms.
4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft. above the sea. Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had, with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark abyss. Any lad can show the way.
2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road, which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The Gerbier-de-Joncs (Gerbiarum jugum) is an isolated pointed cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. above the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4 inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.
Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage, 12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the Gerbier diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road crosses the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St. Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.
Le Beage. Mezenc.
Le Beage, pop. 850. Inns: La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs. A dirty cattle and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads. The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the breadth of the lace, from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker can earn 1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.
From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of Mezenc (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above the sea, 7½ m. N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the direct path. Inns: Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea, or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the hamlet of Mezenc. The ascent takes about an hour.
Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the sea, and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.
Le Monastier.
LE MONASTIER, pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. Inns: Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m. S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles, connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St. Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680, and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du Monastier”— “le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son troupeau”— the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See his litany.)
11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the village of Arsac, Inn: H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. more, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from Brives.
Le Puy. The Cathedral.
36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and 33 m. S.E. from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is
pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town. Hotels: Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place de Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles, Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent., and having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres,” from its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it.
From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., on the other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., preceded by an arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square, with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest, beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the most recent. The church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427, when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each, excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers. Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image,* brought from Cairo in 1251, and presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague, which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the north portal is the baptistery of St. Jean, built in the 4th cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice.
* The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, and weighed 25 lbs. The form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both were swathed in two plies of linen.
Le Puy: Notre Dame de France.
From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, a mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. On the top is the image of Notre Dame de France, 433 ft. above the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the 27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is 52½ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5 ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child, J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90 steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645 ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours Mons.
On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, d. 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux is the sculptor of both of them.
Aiguilhe.
Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the Aiguilhe, 265 ft. high, 518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266 steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael, commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural paintings. The views are superb.
Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin, who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.
Le Puy: Musée. Picture Gallery.
In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is the Musée, open on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle Ages.
Upstairs is the Picture Gallery. In the centre room are portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy of part of the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, d. 1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, 1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, 1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de France, wife of Charles I. of England, Van der Werf, 1722; Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace, blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day she was married to Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.
Ours Mons.
1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is Ours Mons, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 ft. above the plain. The prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable; “exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures, belonging to different epochs.”
(Map, p. 46.)
Le Puy, 2045 ft., to Langogne, 2940 ft. above the sea, 26 m. S. by coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from Pradelles. 8 m. from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. From this hamlet a road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. above the sea, pop. 1450. Inn: Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and cheese-making village, about 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct crater of Le Bouchet, 231 ft. higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres and 92 ft. deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p. 85). After Montagnac the coach arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the horses are changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards Pradelles, 3771 ft., pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. from Le Puy and 5 m. from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the omnibus of the Cheval Blanc awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St. Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p. 46).
Pradelles to Mayres, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a good but a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle (p. 95), La Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance into Ardèche.
From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St. Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and 12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.
(Map, p. 46.)
For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges d’Aurac is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.
Espaly. Borne. Darsac.
Le Puy to Langeac, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. 1 m. from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of basaltic columns rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260 by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.
8¾ m. from Puy is Borne, 2535 ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble in the ravine of Borne forms a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½ m. E. from this station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train. The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent., is at the foot of a rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous) leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent., commanding an extensive view.
13 m. W. from Le Puy is Darsac, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small hamlet, with a restaurant, the station for Chaise-Dieu, 13¾ m. N., fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond Chaise-Dieu.
La Chaise-Dieu.
The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. the high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at La Chaise-Dieu, 3576 ft. above the sea, pop. 2000. Inns: Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord. A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of N. D. du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom are the façade with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, and the horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and 110 high, attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two sides remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.
The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall plain slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, and the aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. long, is separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table of black marble.
On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold. Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La Chaise-Dieu.
Arlanc. Ambert. Fix-St. Geneys.
10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and 11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is Arlanc, pop. 4500, Inn: H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore, consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made here.
11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by rail from Vichy; whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating point of the Forez mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the sea. 15 m. from Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent. houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or 36¾ m. N. from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see p. 358; Thiers, p. 367.
The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, p. 46) is Fix-St. Geneys, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 ft. above the sea, pop. 900. Inn: H. des Voyageurs, situated on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with firs. 2½ m. farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. farther is Rougeac, with a castle 1923 ft. above the sea.
St. Georges-d’Aurac. Monistrol.
The most westerly station on the line is St. Georges d’Aurac, 1872 ft. above the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy. 58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes (see map, p. 26). Near the station is the inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m. E. is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette. 5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m. S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is Langeac, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and 127 m. N. from Nîmes. All the trains halt here. Inns: H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.)
15 m. S. from Langeac is Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side of the river. Coach by a picturesque road to Le Puy, 17 m. N.E. by St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea. 10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of Cordes, 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and Mont Bonzon. Coach from Monistrol to Saugues, 6½ m. W., 3116 ft., pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument called the tomb of the “English general.” It consists of a square vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high and 6⅜ ft. apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the mortuary chapel at Valence (see p. 44).
Le Pouzin. Privas.
LYONS
NÎMES
81
91
LE POUZIN, pop. 3000,
Inn: H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the
Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle.
Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. Privas, pop. 8000. Inns: Croix d’Or; Louvre.
On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838
ft. higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the
Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of
narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade
called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of
the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the
Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the
plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis
XIII. established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal
Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded
by the brave Montbrun.
From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux. Inn: H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the Source of the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to Aubenas, 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and map p. 46.)
Rochemaure.
LYONS
NÎMES
98
74
ROCHEMAURE, pop.
1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern
part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the
steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle.
There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented
commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the
curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms
of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented
wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial
manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a
needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep,
like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up will
be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of
the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These
ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive
edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by
the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition
by order of Louis XIII.
A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.
Le Teil.
LYONS
NÎMES
95¾
76¼
LE TEIL, pop. 3200, with
some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for Montelimart, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the
Rhône (p. 48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line
between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch,
17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais,
a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The
Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps,
pages 26, 46, and 56).
Aubenas. Vals.
5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, Inn: H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college, the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46.)
3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its Mineral Waters. Hotels: Des Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia, lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas.
Antraigues.
5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is Antraigues, pop. 2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow three impetuous mountain torrents—the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the Coupe d’Aizac, covered with a beautiful reddish lava. Inns: Brousse; Glaise.
Neyrac-les-Bains. Thueyts.
Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is Neyrac-les-Bains, the Nereisaqua of the Romans. Inns: H. des Bains; H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger, containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81° Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place, the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2 or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m. W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric, is Thueyts, pop. 2600, Inn: H. Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. high, extending nearly 2 m. down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which, unless in rainy weather, have very little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants, a tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of 214 ft. from the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the extremity of this wall of rock, is the Echelle du Roi, a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1 hour.
The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358 ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.
Mayres.
5½ m. from Thueyts is Mayres, pop. 2900. Inns: France; Commerce. 1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft. above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the sea.
7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170 ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is La Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and 14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea, where for 25 years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is Coucouron, pop. 1400.
The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.
35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16 m. from Le Puy by coach and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages 26, 56 and 46).
Prades. Jaujac.
For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the rest, map p. 46.
11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of Jaujac, is Prades, pop. 1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.
Near the railway terminus is the village of Pont-de-la-Baume, pop. 900, Inns: H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet, Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.
3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is Jaujac, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. 2600. Inn: Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge, and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not vertical. About ½ m. from the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike those of Vals.
Montpezat.
14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence, is Montpezat. The road from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, 14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 ft. high, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.
Montpezat-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above the sea, rising from the Ardèche. Inns: Europe; Poste. This is the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.
To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage, 16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, 12 m., 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of Usclades, 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road ascends to Le Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see p. 84).
Sainte Eulalie.
From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. Sainte Eulalie, pop. 650, Inn: Faure, in a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp. 46 and 85).
Ruoms. Largentière.
See map, page 56.
25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of Alais, is Ruoms. Station for Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. W., and for Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. Hotels: Europe; France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop. 5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300. Joyeuse, pop. 2300. Inns: H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse.
The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.
Pont d’Arc.
(Map, p. 56.)
One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. Inns: *H. du Louvre; Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont d’Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is also the road to the caves. A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 frs.; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is 3 m. from the railway station of St. Just, on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98). The landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont, 2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche, composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft. high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick. There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. high, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles, honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page 54.)
LYONS
NÎMES
102½
69½
VIVIERS, pop. 3300.
Inn: Louvre. The station and the new town are along the road
parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is on the hill
behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W.
side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the quarrying and
preparing of which forms the principal industry of the place. Coach to
Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing St. Thomé,
pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows
through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the opposite or east
side of the Rhône.
Bourg-St. Andeol. St. Just.
LYONS
NÎMES
109½
62½
BOURG-ST.
ANDEOL, pop. 4500. Hotels: Luxembourg; Europe; their
omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le
Bourg has handsome quays alongside the Rhône, a church founded in
the
11th cent., and some houses of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards
from the town, at the foot of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de
Tournes, which, after turning various mills, flows into the Rhône. About
20 ft. above it is a much effaced sculpture in relief, representing the
sacrifice of a bull to the god Mithras.
LYONS
NÎMES
115
57
ST. JUST and St. Marcel
station, from which both towns are less than a mile, but in different
directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is St. Martin, pop.
600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. A ferry-boat crosses
the river. On the other side, a little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop.
450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen
from St. Martin.
Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. up the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price depends upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists of a tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into spacious lofty caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, slippery, and fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and certainly none but ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels are at Pont-Saint Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.
Pont-St. Esprit.
LYONS
NÎMES
119
53
PONT-ST.
ESPRIT, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière,
on the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière
page 50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons
and Avignon. Pont-Saint Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the
western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place,
with pleasant promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge
are the church of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in
the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620.
Within, down a steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel
constructed in 1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a
beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant
pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the
Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery.
Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs.
At Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30
inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map,
page 56).
Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m. N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)