From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. from Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy rains, are very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view.
Busset. Randan.
The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this road. Busset is a poor village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset, built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, on the E. side of the Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy, 5 m. N.
Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.
Vichy to Randan.—Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20 A.M.; arrives at Randan at 1 P.M.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back to Vichy by 5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by Maulmont costs 3½ frs.
Vesse-Intermittent-Spring.
The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left hand a small house with the sign Source Intermittente. In the garden is the very interesting intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of 16 ft. above the surface. During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue, from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c.
From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little chapel, and a large kitchen (see p. 368). From Randan the road leads due E. through the woods to the hunting-seat of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. side of the river.
St. Yorre. Ris. Chateldon.
Vichy to Thiers by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from Vichy are the village of St. Yorre and the Larbaud mineral water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.
The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, 5 m. from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The broad road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. It is a large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street. The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles and nave and semicircular apse.
For Chateldon, 3¼ m. S.E. from station, take the road that follows the rail southward to second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H. Camin, pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach starts for the station, but not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron.
Maringues is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy de Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station.
Thiers.
23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of Thiers, pop. 16,230. Inns: *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from Clermont, passing through a mountainous country.
Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft. above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.” At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants. The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt. Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride. The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest, built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent., representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour. The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below).
Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.
The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to Antoine Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is Aigueperse, pop. 2600. Inn: St. Louis. A coach runs between Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant afternoon drive.
2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and most imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses.
17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the Bèbre, pop. 2830; Inn: H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th cent.) on an eminence overlooking the town (see p. 346).
PARIS
224
SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT, 867 ft. above the
sea.
Gannat. Aigueperse.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
235½
294½
GANNAT, pop. 6000.
Inns: Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on the
Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of St.
Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the
Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s Normandy, Brittany, and
Touraine.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
242
288
AIGUEPERSE, pop.
2600. Hotels: St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest building is the
Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in a convent of
the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station goes to
Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful castle
of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in
1822 by Mme. Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest
of Randan, is another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the
Middle Ages. See under excursions from Vichy.
Riom.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
253
277
RIOM, 1105 ft. above the sea,
pop. 11,000. Inns: H. Paris; Poste; Puy-de-Dome. Diligences
to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.; and to
Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is St.
Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each pier
having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is the
same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near St.
Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few 15th
and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is
the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.
20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 A.M., are the mineral baths of Châteauneuf, pop. 1000. Hotels: Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1 fr.
5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon, most picturesquely situated among mountains. Hotels: Bains; Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels, gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100° Fahr.
3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church, the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see p. 377).
Clermont-Ferrand.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
260½
269½
CLERMONT-FERRAND, 1335 ft. above the sea,
pop. 43,000, on an eminence crowned by the cathedral, of which the
principal façade, the west entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude,
while the chancel or eastern end is towards the railway station.
Hotels: in the Place de Jaude are the *Univers; *Poste, for
commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de Jaude are the Paix; France.
All the above are large houses. Near the Académie and the Botanic
Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good house. Among
the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des
Voyageurs.
Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and
Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the “Place” are a
large cabstand and offices where carriages may be hired for
excursions.
Clermont-Ferrand: Post Office. Cathedral.
The general post office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side of the cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there is a charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem is a bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture. A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue is the Temple Protestant, service 1 P.M. The first narrow street beyond the post office leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.
Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the moist and crystalline (glacé) state.
The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, founded in the 9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt and Volvic lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round belfry on the N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled piers, which rise nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window resting on four fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir contracts towards the apsidal termination the piers become less massive and the arches ⅓ narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows of the nave dates from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, having been injured by a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the apse and in the N. transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the rose of the S. transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, with its three men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th cent. Ten chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is a miracle-working image of Mary and Child.
The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was born.
Clermont-Ferrand: Notre Dame Du Port.
The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. The large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du Port, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. The exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns in mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal tower.
In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round the nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their capitals sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N. ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.
Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns. Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578, when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well, which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman Mary.
It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. and Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake the first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an immediate inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of God!” which words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits of the Crusaders.
The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide Rue Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms, the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.
Clermont-Ferrand: Botanic Gardens.
Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable part is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit trees and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a small aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. Tolerable wine is made at Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and flat, and does not sit easily on the stomach.
Romagnat.
3¾ m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of M. Rognon, 1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., the site of the principal city of the Averni, which was successfully defended by Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, whom he compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under Les Laumes, p. 19.)
Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre; or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the Baraque, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.
The Puy-de-Dome is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough spongy rock cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of which the variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named domite. It is grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often friable, and with flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed trachyte, in which the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The most perfect craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the Nid de la Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are also the ruins of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a Gallo-Roman temple to Mercury.
For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see p. 376. Junction at Clermont with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty (where change for Thiers), Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal (see p. 349).
From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are very picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le Cendre, 1145 ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; 272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the town is on the top of an adjoining hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent.
Issoire.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
282½
247½
ISSOIRE, pop. 6400, and
1200 ft. above the sea-level. Hotels: Poste; Pezissat; opposite
each other in the principal street. It is a clean little town. The
principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a highly interesting
specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of
differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
altar.
Le Breuil. Ardes.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
287¾
242¼
LE BREUIL, 1287 ft.,
pop. 1000. Opposite station, Inn: H. Beranger. Coaches await
passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2 m. W.,
and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a hilly
and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain,
a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
2½ m. farther is Ardes;
Inns: Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze.
In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent., but restored
and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and
Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open
book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great
basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical
rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot
of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road,
contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below
are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed
among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic
formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière,
perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way
beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff
resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About
4½ m. up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed
by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest
and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About
5 m. up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of
St. Pesade.
2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea. Between Brassal, Inn: Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft. above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin clay.
Arvant. Brioude.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
298
232
ARVANT, 1400 ft., a dirty
hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of the Allier. The best of the
inns is the H. Voyageurs.
Junction here with the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing
the whole of the interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See
Black’s South France, West Half.)
From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences the loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line, between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from Neussargues, 7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from Marvejols, is the highest bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, which crosses the ravine of the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The span of the great arch is 541½ ft., and the length of the viaduct 1851 ft.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
304
226
BRIOUDE, 1430 ft. above
the sea, pop. 5000. Inns: *Nord; Commerce. A dirty town on a
tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church St. Julien
(restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, of red
sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three portals.
The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain buttresses, over
which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the church is another
portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large semicircular
arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns bearing
large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, but
plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in the
two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
stones.
The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.
Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the Hôtel de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the plain.
St. Georges-d’Aurac. Langeac.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
318½
211½
ST.
GEORGES-D’AURAC, 1872 ft. above the sea. Inn: Lombardin,
near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for
St. Etienne 54½ m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.)
PARIS
MARSEILLES
323
207
LANGEAC, pop. 4800.
Inns: H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the
train passes through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst
vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or
grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark
ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance
while being hurried past in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is
Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The
fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the
rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S.
from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then
follow the stations of Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91);
Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238 ft.
Langogne.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
364½
165½
LANGOGNE, 2940 ft. above
the sea, pop. 4000. Inns: Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly
situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7½ m.
farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La
Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A few miles
to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères,
6 m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now
passes by immense rocks and cliffs of granite.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
390
140
VILLEFORT, 1820 ft.,
pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a deep valley at the
foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for Mende, passing
through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W.
Bagnols les Bains, pop. 500. Inns: Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi. A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and plenty of game on the mountains.
From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At La Grande Combe, with the two stations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines commence which extend to Alais.
Alais.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
419
111
ALAIS, pop. 22,000, on the
Gardon. Hotels: Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like
Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields,
iron-works, and manufactories.
This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of
Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other.
Some very capital wine is made at Alais.
Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to Teil (see p. 96, and map p. 56); also to Laudun, 35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and map p. 56).
PARIS
MARSEILLES
450
80
NÎMES (see p. 101, and map p. 66).
467
63
TARASCON (see
p. 66, and map p. 66).
470
60
ARLES (see p.
68, and map p.
66).
499½
30½
ST. CHAMAS (see p. 76, and map p. 66).
512½
17½
ROGNAC (see p.
77, and map
p. 66).
518
12
PAS-DES-LANCIERS.
PARIS
530
MARSEILLES (see p. 111, and map p. 123).
122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic 12½ m., Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m., Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m., Meymac 73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m. N.E. from Brive.
From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart, adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a crypt supported on six colonnettes.
In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains. St. Mart. The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment; temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1½ fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.
Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishment the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-class houses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. from Clermont by omnibus, passing through Chamalières. A great variety of excursions in the neighbourhood.
CLERMONT
MARSEILLES
5
117
DURTOL, situated among high
wooded mountains.
Volvic. Pont-Gibaud. Laqueuille.
CLERMONT
MARSEILLES
12½
109½
VOLVIC. In the neighbourhood
of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct
crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front
of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic
by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le
Puy de la Bannière. The parish church dates from the 13th cent.
Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the principal industries
(see p. 369).
The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24 m. distant. Inns: H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses await passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.
CLERMONT
MARSEILLES
40½
81½
LAQUEUILLE, 3624 ft.
above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and
for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore
passes through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above
the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule
passes through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.
Environs of
MONT DORE
and LA BOURBOULE
see caption
is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne, 3402 ft. above the sea. Hotels.—Considering the style of their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses, Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat; H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; H. Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.
The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond, temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table mixed with the wine.
Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.
The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then 2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c. Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from 109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by tickets bought at the office of the baths.
Mont-Dore: Analysis of the Water.
|
MdS = Madeleine Spring. PvS = Pavillon Spring. RiS = Rigny Spring. |
CsS = Caesar Spring. RaS = Ramond Spring. BPC = Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs. |
| 0.1234 |
0.1234 | 0.1234 | MdS | PvS | RiS | CsS | RaS | BPCS |
| Free carbonic acid gas | 0.3552 | 0.3810 | 0.3644 | 0.5967 | 0.4997 | 0.0518 | ||
| Bicarbonate of soda | 0.5362 | 0.5452 | 0.5375 | 0.5361 | 0.5362 | 2.8920 | ||
| „ of potash | 0.0309 | 0.0309 | 0.0232 | 0.0212 | 0.0212 | .... | ||
| „ of lime | 0.3423 | 0.3142 | 0.3092 | 0.3209 | 0.2720 | 0.1905 | ||
| „ of magnesia | 0.1757 | 0.1676 | 0.1628 | 0.1676 | 0.1647 | .... | ||
„ of protoxide of iron |
0.0207 | 0.0235 | 0.025 | 0.0258 | 0.0317 | 0.0021 | ||
| Chloride of Sodium | 0.3685 | 0.3630 | 0.3599 | 0.3587 | 0.3578 | 2.8406 | ||
| Sulphate of soda | 0.0761 | 0.0761 | 0.0761 | 0.0756 | 0.0737 | 0.2084 | ||
| Arseniate of soda | 0.00096 | 0.00096 | 0.00096 | 0.0009 | 0.00095 | 0.02847 | ||
| Silicic acid | 0.1654 | 0.1686 | 0.1653 | 0.1552 | 0.1550 | 0.1200 | ||
| Alumina | 0.0112 | 0.0094 | 0.0101 | 0.0083 | 0.0065 | Traces. | ||
Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or 27° above the hottest of Mont-Dore.
These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis, asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated, nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases.—Madden’s Health Resorts. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the saturation point has been obtained.—Lee’s Baths.
As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.
Mont-Dore: Excursions. Queureuilh.
Excursions.—There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the different places.
One of the first excursions undertaken is to the Cascade du Queureuilh, about 2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below), 5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet, a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.
Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup 1¾ m., and to the Pré du Barbier.
Lake Guéry. Orcival.
The excursion to Lake Guéry, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W. from the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway.
4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of Orcival, with an inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.
N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller, 5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp.
9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some menhirs.
The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. E. from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.
From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by Lake Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see p. 381).
To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p. 385); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385).
Pic de Sancy.
The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de Sancy, 6188 ft. above the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S. from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft. To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to an old alum mine.
The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here—25 c. charged for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin des Crètes.
Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin.
3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼ m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.
3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. Inns: Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted into shops and dwellings.
Murols.
From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (Inn: Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.
The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and Murols the entire distance is 32 m.
Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer.
A very pleasant promenade is to the Salon du Capucin, recommended as well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.
To go to the Vallée d’Enfer return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N.
Bourboule. Hotels.
8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606 ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their especial virtue—the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at Mont-Dore.
Hotels.—Around the principal establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de ¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.
At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste; Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.
Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to let.
The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. Service, ½ to 1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.
The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon beforehand it will be much the same.
The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.
In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to 31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to the 30th September, 2½ frs.
In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.
The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.
The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.
Bourboule: Springs.
Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left, in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140° F.
These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with wine at dinner.
Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters.
Bourboule: Excursions.
On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4½ m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.
The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About 1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way, but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin. A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high, 2¼ m. from Bourboule.
On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule and 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.
Saint-Nectaire.
31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m. Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. E. The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas, with a large bathing establishment. Hotels: Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.
N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. Hotels: Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves.
The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves, 3 m. from Issoire (p. 372).
14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and 68 m. N.E. from Brive, is Eyguirande, pop. 1150. Junction here with loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. S., passing Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s South France, West Half).
31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is Meymac, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to Limoges. (See South France, West Half.)
Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde.
16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is Tulle, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze. Hotels: Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle.
122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is Brive-la-Gaillarde, pop. 12,000, on the Corrèze. Hotels: Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s South France, West Half).