This order was punctually obeyed, and portrays more clearly than a chapter of observations the degraded state of the common people. In the evening, when the company arrived, the ball began after their usual manner, and there was really a handsome display of beauty.

It will be proper to mention here, that when my small paper trunk was brought in, Lt. Malgares struck his foot against it, and said: "The governor informs me this is a prisoner of war, or that I have charge of it; but, sir, only assure me that you will hold the papers therein contained sacred, and I will have nothing to do with it." I bowed assent; and I will only add that the condition was scrupulously adhered to, as I was bound by every tie of military and national honor, and, let me add, gratitude, not to abuse his high confidence in the honor of a soldier. He further added that "Robinson being now acknowledged as one of your party, I shall withdraw his guard and consider him as under your parole of honor." Those various marks of politeness and friendship caused me to endeavor to evince to my brother soldier that we were capable of appreciating his honorable conduct toward us.

Mar. 9th. The troops marched about ten o'clock. Lt. Malgares and myself accompanied Captain D'Almansa about three miles back on his route to Santa Fe, to the house of a citizen, where we dined; after which we separated. I wrote by the captain to the governor in French, and to Father Rubi in English. D'Almansa presented me with his cap and whip, and gave me a letter of recommendation to an officer at Chihuahua. We returned to our quarters and, being joined by our waiters, commenced our route.

Passed a village called St. Thomas [San Tomas, or Tomé[I'-20]], one mile distant from camp. The camp was formed in an ellipsis, the two long sides presenting a breastwork formed of the saddles and heads of the mules, each end of the ellipsis having a small opening to pass and repass at; in the center was the commandant's tent. Thus, in case of an attack on the camp, there were ready-formed works to fight from. Malgares' mode of living was superior to anything we have an idea of in our army; having eight mules loaded with his common camp equipage, wines, confectionery, etc. But this only served to evince the corruption of Spanish discipline; for, if a subaltern indulged himself with such a quantity of baggage, what would be the cavalcade attending an army? Dr. Robinson had been called over the river to a small village to see a sick woman, and did not return that night. Distance 12 miles.

Mar. 10th. Marched at eight o'clock, and arrived at the village Sibilleta; passed on the way the village of Sabinez on the west side, and Naxales, on the same [W.] side, Sibilleta[I'-21] is situated on the east side, and is a regular square, appearing like a large mud wall on the outside, the doors, windows, etc., facing the square; it is the neatest and most regular village I have yet seen, and is governed by a sergeant, at whose quarters I put up.

Mar. 11th. Marched at eleven o'clock; came 12 miles[I'-22] and encamped, the troops having preceded us. Lieutenant Malgares, not being well, took medicine. The village we stayed at last night being the last, we entered the wilderness and the road became rough, small hills running into the river, making valleys; but the bottoms appear richer than those more to the north.

Mar. 12th. Marched at seven o'clock; passed, on the west side of the river, the mountains of Magdalen, and the Black mountains on the east.[I'-23] Passed the encampment of a caravan going out with about 15,000 sheep from the other provinces, from which they bring back merchandise. This expedition consisted of about 300 men, chiefly citizens, escorted by an officer and 35 or 40 troops; they are collected at Sibilleta and separate there on their return. They go out in February and return in March; a similar expedition goes out in the autumn, but during the other parts of the year no citizen travels the road, the couriers excepted. At the pass [El Paso] of the Rio del Norte they meet and exchange packets, when both return to their own provinces. Met a caravan of 50 men and probably 200 horses, loaded with goods for New Mexico. Halted at twelve o'clock and marched at three. Lt. Malgares showed me the place where he had been in two affairs with the Appaches; one he commanded himself, and the other was commanded by Captain D'Almansa; in the former there were one Spaniard killed, eight wounded, and 10 Appaches made prisoners; in the latter 52 Appaches were wounded and 17 killed, they being surprised in the night. Malgares killed two himself, and had two horses killed under him.

Mar. 13th. Marched at seven o'clock; saw many deer. Halted at eleven o'clock and marched at four o'clock.[I'-24]

This day one of our horses threw a young woman and ran off, as is the habit of all Spanish horses, if by chance they throw their rider; many of the dragoons and Malgares pursued him. Being mounted on an elegant horse of Malgares', I joined in the chase, and notwithstanding their superior horsemanship overtook the horse, caught his bridle, and stopped him, when both of the horses were nearly at full speed. This act procured me the applause of the Spanish dragoons, and it is astonishing how much it operated on their good will.

Mar. 14th. Marched at ten o'clock, and halted at a mountain ["of the Friar Christopher," p. 639, i. e., Fra Cristobal]; distance 10 miles.[I'-25] This is the point from which the road leaves the river for two days' journey bearing due south, the river here taking a turn southwest; by the river it is five days to where the roads meet. We marched at four o'clock, and eight miles below crossed the river to the west side; two mules fell in the water. Unfortunately, they carried the stores of Lieutenant Malgares, by which means we lost all our bread, an elegant assortment of biscuits, etc. Distance 18 miles.

Sunday, Mar. 15th. Marched at half past ten o'clock. Made 28 miles, the route rough and stony; course S. 20° W.[I'-26]

Mar. 16th. Marched at seven o'clock, and halted at twelve. Passed on the east side the Horse mountain, and the Mountain of the Dead.[I'-27] Came on a trail of the appearance of 200 horses, supposed to be the trail of an expedition from the province of Biscay, against the Indians.

Mar. 17th. Marched at ten o'clock, and at four in the afternoon crossed the river to the east side; saw several fresh Indian tracks; also, the trail of a large party of horses, supposed to be Spanish troops in pursuit of the Indians. Marched down the river 26 miles;[I'-28] fresh sign of Indians, also of a party of horses. Country mountainous on both sides of the river.

Mar. 18th. Marched down the river 26 miles;[I'-29] fresh sign of Indians, also of a party of horses. Country mountainous on both sides of the river.

Mar. 19th. Struck out east about three miles and fell in with the main road [continuing from the Jornada del Muerto], on a large flat prairie, which we left at the mountain of the Friar Christopher.[I'-30]

Mar. 20th. Halted at ten o'clock, at a salt lake. Marched until two o'clock; halted for the day.[I'-31] Vegetation began to be discoverable on the 17th, and this day the weeds and grass were quite high.

Mar. 21st. Marched in the morning and arrived at the passo [El Paso[I'-32]] del Norte at eleven o'clock, the road leading through a hilly and mountainous country. We put up at the house of Don Francisco Garcia, who was a merchant and a planter; he possessed in the vicinity of the town 20,000 sheep and 1,000 cows. We were received in a most hospitable manner by Don Pedro Roderique Rey, the lieutenant-governor, and Father Joseph Prado, the vicar of the place. This was by far the most flourishing place we had been in. For a more particular account of its situation, population, etc., see Appendix to Part III. [now Chap. IV.].

CHAPTER II.

ITINERARY, CONTINUED: THROUGH OLD MEXICO, IN CHIHUAHUA, DURANGO, AND COAHUILA, TO THE PRESIDIO GRANDE, MARCH 22D-MAY 31ST, 1807.

Sunday, Mar. 22d. Remained at the Passo.

Mar. 23d. Mass performed; left the Passo at three o'clock, to Fort Elisiaira [Elizario], accompanied by the lieutenant-governor, the vicar, and Allencaster, a brother of the governor. Malgares, myself and the doctor took up our quarters at the house of Capt. [Blank], who was then at Chihuahua; but his lady and sister entertained us in a very elegant and hospitable manner. They began playing cards and continued until late the third day. Malgares, who won considerably, would send frequently $15 or $20 from the table to the lady of the house, her sister, and others, and beg their acceptance, in order that the goddess of fortune might still continue propitious; in this manner he distributed $500.

Around this fort were a great number of Appaches, who were on a treaty with the Spaniards. These people appeared to be perfectly independent in their manners, and were the only savages I saw in the Spanish dominions whose spirit was not humbled—whose necks were not bowed to the yoke of their invaders. With those people Malgares was extremely popular. I believe he sought popularity with them and all the common people, for there was no man so poor or so humble, under whose roof he would not enter; when he walked out, I have seen him put a handful of dollars in his pocket, and give them all to the old men, women, and children before he returned to his quarters; but to equals he was haughty and overbearing. This conduct he pursued through the whole provinces of New Mexico and Biscay, when at a distance from the seat of government; but I could plainly perceive that he was cautious of his conduct as he approached the capital [city of Chihuahua]. I here left a letter for my sergeant.

Mar. 24th. Very bad weather.

Mar. 25th. The troops marched, but Lt. Malgares and my men remained.

Mar. 26th. Divine service was performed in the morning, in the garrison, at which all the troops attended under arms. At one part of their mass, they present arms; at another, sink on one knee and rest the muzzle of the gun on the ground, in signification of their submission to their divine master. At one o'clock, we bid adieu to our friendly hostess, who was one of the finest women I had seen in New Spain. At dusk arrived at a small pond made by a spring which arose in the center, called the Ogo mall a Ukap, and seemed formed by providence to enable the human race to pass that route, as it was the only water within 60 miles on the route. Here we overtook Sergeant Belardie with the party of dragoons from Senora and Biscay, who had left us at Fort Elisiaira, where we had received a new escort. Distance 20 miles.[II'-1]

Mar. 27th. Arrived at Carracal [Carrizal], at twelve o'clock,[II'-2] Distance 28 miles; the road well watered and the situation pleasant. The father-in-law of our friend commanded six or seven years here. When we arrived at fort, the commandant, Don Pedro Rues Saramende, received Robinson and myself with a cold bow, and informed Malgares that we could repair to the public quarters. To this Malgares indignantly replied that he should accompany us, and turned to go, when the commandant took him by the arm, made many apologies to him and us, and we at length reluctantly entered his quarters. Here for the first time I saw the gazettes of Mexico, which gave rumors of Colonel [Aaron] Burr's conspiracies, the movements of our troops, etc.; but which were stated in so vague and undefined a manner as only to create our anxiety without throwing any light on the subject.

Mar. 28th. Marched at half past three o'clock, and arrived at the Warm Springs [Ojos Calientes] at sundown; crossed one little fosse on the route.[II'-3]

Sunday, Mar. 29th. Marched at ten o'clock, and continued our route, with but a short halt, until sundown, when we encamped without water. Distance 30 miles.[II'-4]

Mar. 30th. Marched before seven o'clock; the front arrived at water at eleven o'clock; the mules, at twelve. The spring[II'-5] on the side of the mountain, to the east of the road, is a beautiful situation. I here saw the first ash timber I observed in the country. This water is 52 miles from the Warm Springs. Yesterday and to-day saw cabrie [antelope, Antilocapra americana]. Marched 15 miles further and encamped without wood or water; passed two other small springs to the east of the road.

Mar. 31st. Marched early and arrived at an excellent spring at ten o'clock. The roads from Senora, Tanos [qu: Yanos?], Buenaventura, etc., join about 400 yards before you arrive at this spring.[II'-6]

Arrived at the village of [hiatus][II'-7] at night, a large and elegant house, for the country; here were various labors carried on by criminals in irons. We here met with a Catalonian, who was but a short time from Spain, whose dialect was such that he could scarcely be understood by Malgares, and whose manners were much more like those of a citizen of our Western frontiers than of a subject of a despotic prince.

Apr. 1st.[II'-8] In the morning Malgares dispatched a courier with a letter to the Commandant-general Salcedo, to inform him of our approach, and also one to his father-in-law.

Apr. 2d. When we arrived at Chihuahua, we pursued our course through the town to the house of the general. I was much astonished to see with what anxiety Malgares anticipated the meeting with his military chief. Having been on the most arduous and enterprising expedition ever undertaken by any of his Majesty's officers from these provinces, and having executed it with equal spirit and judgment, yet was he fearful of his [Salcedo's] meeting him with an eye of displeasure. He appeared to be much more agitated than ourselves, although we may be supposed to have also had our sensations, as on the will of this man depended our future destiny, at least until our country could interfere in our behalf. On our arrival at the general's, we were halted in the hall of the guard until word was sent to the general of our arrival, when Malgares was first introduced. He remained some time, during which a Frenchman came up and endeavored to enter into conversation with us, but was soon frowned into silence, as we conceived he was only some authorized spy. Malgares at last came out and asked me to walk in. I found the general sitting at his desk; he was a middle-sized man, apparently about 55 years of age, with a stern countenance; but he received me graciously and beckoned to a seat.

He then observed, "You have given us and yourself a great deal of trouble."

Captain Pike. On my part entirely unsought, and on that of the Spanish government voluntary.

General Salcedo. Where are your papers?

Captain Pike. Under charge of Lieutenant Malgares.

Malgares was then ordered to have my small trunk brought in, which being done, a Lieutenant Walker came in, who is a native of New Orleans, his father an Englishman, his mother a French woman, and who spoke both those languages equally well, also the Spanish. He was a lieutenant of dragoons in the Spanish service, and master of the military school at Chihuahua. This same young gentleman was employed by Mr. Andrew Ellicott,[II'-9] as a deputy surveyor on the Florida line between the United States and Spain, in the years 1797 and '98. General Salcedo then desired him to assist me in taking out my papers, and requested me to explain the nature of each; such as he conceived were relevant to the expedition he caused to be laid on one side, and those which were not of a public nature on the other; the whole either passing through the hands of the general or of Walker, except a few letters from my lady. On my taking these up, and saying they were letters from a lady, the general gave a proof that, if the ancient Spanish bravery had degenerated in the nation generally, their gallantry still existed, by bowing; and I put them in my pocket. He then informed me that he would examine the papers, but that in the meanwhile he wished me to make out and present to him a short sketch of my voyage,[II'-10] which might probably be satisfactory. This I would have positively refused, had I had an idea that it was his determination to keep the papers, which I could not at that time conceive, from the urbanity and satisfaction which he appeared to exhibit on the event of our interview. He then told me that I would take up my quarters with Walker, in order, as he said, to be better accommodated by having a person with me who spoke the English language; but the object, as I suspected, was for him to be a spy on our actions and on those who visited us.

Robinson all this time had been standing in the guardroom, boiling with indignation at being so long detained there, subject to the observations of the soldiery and gaping curiosity of the vulgar. He was now introduced, by some mistake of one of the aides-de-camp. He appeared and made a slight bow to the general, who demanded of Malgares who he [Robinson] was. He replied, "A doctor who accompanied the expedition." "Let him retire," said the governor; and he went out.

The general then invited me to return and dine with him, and we went to the quarters of Walker, where we received several different invitations to take quarters at houses where we might be better accommodated; but, understanding that the general had designated our quarters, we were silent.

We returned to dine at the palace, where we met Malgares, who, besides ourselves, was the only guest. He had at the table the treasurer, Truxillio [qu.: Trujillo?], and a priest called Father Rocus.

Apr. 3d. Employed in giving a sketch of our voyage for the general and commandant of those provinces. Introduced to Don Bernardo Villamil; Don Alberto Mayner, lieutenant-colonel, and father-in-law to Malgares; and Don Manuel Zuloaga, a member of the secretary's office, to whom I am under obligations of gratitude, and shall remember with esteem. Visited his house in the evening.

Apr. 4th. Visited the hospital, where were two officers, who were fine-looking men, and I was informed had been the gayest young men of the province. They were moldering away by disease, and there was not a physician in his Majesty's hospitals who was able to cure them; but after repeated attempts, all had given them up to perish. This shows the deplorable state of medical science in the provinces. I endeavored to get Robinson to undertake the cure of these poor fellows, but the jealousy and envy of the Spanish doctors made it impracticable.

Sunday, Apr. 5th. Visited by Lieutenant Malgares, with a very polite message from his Excellency, delivered in the most impressive terms, with offers of assistance, money, etc., for which I returned my respectful thanks to the general. Accompanied Malgares to the public walk, where we found the secretary, Captain Villamil, Zuloaga, and other officers of distinction. We here likewise met the wife of my friend Malgares, to whom he introduced us. She was, like all the other ladies of New Spain, a little en bon point, but possessed the national beauty of eye in a superior degree. There was a large collection of ladies, amongst whom were two of the most celebrated in the capital—Señora Maria Con. Caberairi, and Señora Margeurite Vallois, the only two ladies who had spirit sufficient, and their husbands generosity enough, to allow them to think themselves rational beings, to be treated on an equality, to receive the visits of their friends, and give way to the hospitality of their dispositions without restraint. They were consequently the envy of other ladies, and the subject of scandal to prudes; their houses were the rendezvous of all the fashionable male society; and every man who was conspicuous for science, arts, or arms, was sure to meet a welcome. We, as unfortunate strangers, were consequently not forgotten. I returned with Malgares to the house of his father-in-law, Lieutenant-Colonel Mayner, who was originally from Cadiz, a man of good information.

Apr. 6th. Dined with the general. Writing, etc. In the evening visited Malgares and the secretary. After dinner wine was set on the table, and we were entertained with songs in the French, Italian, Spanish, and English languages. Accustomed as I was to sitting some time after dinner I forgot their siesta, or repose after dinner, until Walker suggested the thing to me, when we retired.

Apr. 7th. Dined at Don Antonio Caberairi's, [qu.: Cabrera's?] in company with Villamil, Zuloaga, Walker, etc. Sent in the sketch of my voyage to the general. Spent the evening at Colonel Mayner's with Malgares.

Apr. 8th. Visited the treasurer, who showed me the double-barreled gun given by Governor [Wm. C. C.] Claiborne, and another formerly the property of [Captain Philip] Nolan [see note⁹, p. 657, and legend on Pike's map].

Apr. 9th. In the evening I was informed that David Ferro[II'-11] was in town and wished to speak to me. This man had formerly been my father's ensign, and was taken with Nolan's party at the time the latter was killed. He possessed a brave soul, and had withstood every oppression, since being made prisoner, with astonishing fortitude. Although his leaving the place of his confinement, the village of St. Jeronimie [San Jeronimo], without the knowledge of the general, was in some measure clandestine, yet a countryman, an acquaintance, and formerly a brother soldier, in a strange land, in distress, had ventured much to see me—could I deny him the interview from any motives of delicacy? No; forbid it, humanity! forbid it, every sentiment of my soul!

Our meeting was affecting, tears standing in his eyes. He informed me of the particulars of their being taken, and many other circumstances since they had been in the country. I promised to do all I could for him consistently with my character and honor, and their having entered the country without the authority of the United States. As he was obliged to leave town before day, he called on me at my quarters, when I bid him adieu, and gave him what my purse afforded, not what my heart dictated.

Apr. 10th. In the evening at Colonel Maynor's. Captain Rodiriques [Rodriguez] arrived from the province of Texas, where he had been under arrest one year, for going to Natchitoches with the Marquis Cassa Calvo [Marques de Casa Calva].

Apr. 11th. Rode out in the coach with Malgares; was hospitably entertained at the house of one of the Vallois, where we drank London porter. Visited Secretary Villamil.

Sunday, Apr. 12th. Dined with the doctor, at Don Antonio Caberarie's, with our usual guests. In the evening at the public walks.

Apr. 13th. Nothing extraordinary.

Apr. 14th. Spent the forenoon in writing; the afternoon at Don Antonio Caberarie's.

Apr.15th. Spent the evening at Colonel Maynor's [qu.: Mayron's?] with our friend Malgares. Wrote a letter to Governor Salcedo on the subject of my papers.[II'-12]

Apr. 16th. Spent the evening at the secretary's, Don Villamil's.

Apr. 17th. Sent my letter to his Excellency. Spent the evening with my friend Malgares.

Apr. 18th. Spent the evening at Caberarie's, etc. Wrote to Governor Allencaster.

Sunday, Apr. 19th. In the evening at a fandango.

Apr. 20th. We this day learned that an American officer had gone on to the city of Mexico. This was an enigma to us inexplicable, as we conceived that the jealousy of the Spanish government would have prevented any foreign officer from penetrating the country; and why the United States could send an authorized agent to the viceroyalty, when the Spanish government had at the seat of our government a chargé d'affaires, served but to darken the conjectures. The person alluded to was Mr. Burling, a citizen of Mississippi Territory, whose mission is now well known to the government. We likewise received an account of a commercial treaty having been entered into between Great Britain and the United States, which by the Dons was only considered as the preliminary step to an alliance offensive and defensive between the two nations.

Apr. 21st. Presented the commanding general with a letter for General Wilkinson, which he promised to have forwarded to the governor of Texas.

Apr. 22d. Spent the day in reading and studying Spanish; the evening at Captain Villamil's.

Apr. 23d. Dined at Don Pedro Vallois'; spent the evening with Colonel Maynor; bade him adieu, as he was to march the next day. In the evening received a letter from the commandant-general, informing me my papers were to be detained, giving a certificate of their numbers, contents, etc.[II'-13]

Apr. 24th. Spent the evening at Zuloaga's with his relations. About sundown an officer of the government called upon me, and told me that the government had been informed that, in conversations in all societies, Robinson and myself had held forth political maxims and principles which, if just, I must be conscious if generally disseminated would in a very few years be the occasion of a revolt of those kingdoms; that those impressions had taken such effect that it was no uncommon thing, in the circles in which he associated, to hear the comparative principles of a republican and a monarchical government discussed, and even the allegiance due, in case of certain events, to the court called in question; that various characters of consideration had indulged themselves in those conversations, all of whom were noted and would be taken care of; but that, as respected myself and companion, it was the desire of his Excellency that while in the dominions of Spain we would not hold forth any conversations whatsoever, either on the subject of religion or politics.

I replied that it was true I had held various and free conversations on the subjects complained of, but only with men high in office, who might be supposed to be firmly attached to the king, and partial to the government of their country; that I had never gone among the poor and illiterate, preaching up republicanism or a free government; that as to the catholic religion, I had only combated some of what I conceived to be its illiberal dogmas; that I had spoken of it in all instances as a respectable branch of the Christian religion which, as well as all others, was tolerated in the United States; and that, had I come to that kingdom in a diplomatic character, delicacy toward the government would have sealed my lips; or had I been a prisoner of war, personal safety might have had the same effect; but, being there in the capacity which I was, not voluntarily, but by coercion of the Spanish government, which at the same time had officially notified me that they did not consider me under any restraint whatever; therefore, when called on, I should always give my opinions freely, either as to politics or religion; but at the same time with urbanity, and a proper respect to the legitimate authorities of the country where I was.

He replied, "Well, you may then rest assured your conduct will be represented in no very favorable point of view to your government."

I replied, "To my government I am certainly responsible, and to no other."

He then left me. I immediately waited on some of my friends and notified them of the threat, at which they appeared much alarmed. We went immediately to consult [Malgares], who, to great attachment to his friends, joined the most incorruptible loyalty and the confidence of the government. Our consultation ended in a determination only to be silent and watch events.

We suspected [Walker] to be the informant, but whether just in our suspicion or not, I will not pretend to determine; for Robinson and myself frequently used to hold conversations in his presence, purposely to have them communicated; but he at last discovered our intentions, and told us that if we calculated on making him a carrier of news, we were mistaken; that he despised it.

Apr. 25th. At eleven o'clock I called on his Excellency, but was informed that he was engaged. About three o'clock I received a message from him by Lieutenant Walker, informing me that he was surprised I had not returned, and to call without ceremony in the evening; which I did, and presented him with a letter.[II'-14] He then also candidly informed me my party would not join me in the territory of the king of Spain, but that they should be attended to punctually, and forwarded on immediately after me; and requested that I should give orders to my sergeant to deliver up all his ammunition, and dispose in some manner of the horses of which he had charge. I stated in reply that, with respect to the ammunition, I would give orders to my sergeant to deliver, if demanded, all they possessed, more than was necessary to fill their horns; but that as to the horses, I considered their loss was a charge which must be adjusted between the two governments, and therefore should not give any directions respecting them, except as to bringing them on as far and as long as they were able to travel. He then gave me an invitation to dine with him on the morrow.

Sunday, Apr. 26th. Dined at the general's. In the evening went to Malgares', Zuloaga's, and others'. Wrote to my sergeant and Fero; to the latter of whom I sent $10, and to the other $161.84, to purchase clothes for the party. We had been for some time suspicious that the doctor was to be detained; but this evening he likewise obtained permission to pursue his journey with me, which diffused general joy through all the party.

Apr. 27th. Spent the day in making arrangements for our departure, writing to the sergeant, etc.

I will here mention some few anecdotes relative to [Walker], with whom we boarded during our stay in Chihuahua. When we came to the city we went to his quarters, by order of the general, and considered ourselves as guests, having not the least idea that we should be charged with board, knowing with what pleasure any American officer would receive and entertain a foreign brother soldier situated as we were, and that we should conceive it a great insult to be offered pay under similar circumstances. But one day, after we had been there about a week, he presented to me an account for Robinson's and my board, receipted, and begged, if the general inquired of me, that I would say I had paid it. This naturally led me to demand how the thing originated. He with considerable embarrassment observed that he had taken the liberty to remark to the general that he thought he should be allowed an extra allowance, in order to be enabled to treat us with some little distinction. The general flew into a violent passion, and demanded if I had not paid him for our board? To which the other replied, No, he did not expect pay of us. He ordered him immediately to demand pay, to receive it, sign a receipt, and lodge it in his hands; and added that he would consult me if [to ascertain whether] the thing was done. This he never did; yet I took care, every Sunday after that, to deposit in the hands of Walker a sum which was considered the proportion for Robinson and myself. Malgares and several others of the Spanish officers having heard of the thing, waited on us much mortified, saying with what pleasure they would have entertained us had not the designation of the general pointed out his will on the subject.

[Walker] had living with him an old negro, the only one I saw on that side of St. Antonio, who was the property of some person who resided near Natchez, and who had been taken with Nolan. Having been acquainted with him in the Mississippi country, he solicited and obtained permission for old Cæsar to live with him. I found him very communicative and extremely useful. The day I arrived, when we were left alone, he came in, looked around at the walls of the room, and exclaimed, "What! all gone?" I demanded an explanation, and he informed me that the maps of the different provinces, as taken by [Walker] and other surveyors, had been hung up against the walls; but that the day we arrived they had all been taken down and deposited in a closet which he designated.

W[alker] gave various reasons for having left the United States and joined the Spanish service; one of which was, his father having been ill-treated, as he conceived, by G. at Natchez. At Chihuahua he had charge of the military school, which consisted of about 15 young men of the first families of the provinces; also of the public water-works of the city, on a plan devised by the royal engineer of Mexico; of the building of a new church; of the casting of small artillery, fabrication of arms, etc. Thus, though he had tendered his resignation, they knew his value too well to part with him, and would not accept of it, but still kept him in a subordinate station, in order that he might be the more dependent and the more useful. Although he candidly confessed his disgust at their service, manners, morals, and political establishments, yet he never made a communication to us which he was bound in honor to conceal; but on the contrary fulfilled the station of informer, which in that country is considered no disgrace, with great punctuality and fidelity. In this city the proverb was literally true, that "the walls have ears"; for scarcely anything could pass that his Excellency did not know in a few hours.

In the evening I was notified to be ready to march the next day at three o'clock.

Apr. 28th. In the morning Malgares waited on us, and informed us he was to accompany us some distance on the route. After bidding adieu to all our friends, we marched at a quarter past three o'clock, and encamped at nine o'clock at a stony spring; passed near Chihuahua a small ridge of mountains, and then encamped in a hollow.[II'-15]

As we were riding along, Malgares rode up to me and informed me that the general had given orders that I should not be permitted to make any astronomical observations. To this I replied that he well knew I never had attempted making any since I had been conducted into the Spanish dominions.

Apr. 29th. Arrived at a settlement [Horcasitas or Bachimba?] at eight o'clock; plenty of milk, etc.

When about to make my journal, Malgares changed color, and informed me it was his orders I should not take notes; but added, "you have a good memory, and when you get to Cogquilla [Coahuila] you can bring it all up." At first I felt considerably indignant, and was on the point of refusing to comply; but thinking for a moment of the many politenesses I had received from his hands induced me merely to bow assent with a smile. We proceeded on our route, but had not gone far before I made a pretext to halt, established my boy as a vedet [vidette], sat down peaceably under a bush, and made my notes. This course I pursued ever after, not without some very considerable degree of trouble to separate myself from the party.

Arrived at the fort of St. Paul at eleven o'clock, situated on a small river of the same name, the course of which is N. E. by S. W. At the time we were there the river was not wider than a mill stream; but sometimes it is 300 yards wide, and impassable. Distance 30 miles.[II'-16]

Apr. 30th. Marched at six o'clock, and at eleven arrived at [Saucillo, on] the river Conchos—24 miles; beautiful green trees on its banks. I was taken very sick at half past ten o'clock. Arrived at night at a small station [Las Garzas] on the river Conchos, garrisoned by a sergeant and 10 men from Fort Conchos, 15 leagues up said river. Distance 43 miles.[II'-17]

May 1st. Marched up the Conchos to its confluence with the river Florada [Rio Florido], 15 leagues from where we left the former [Conchos] river, and took up the latter [Rio Florido], which bears from the Conchos S. 80° and 50° E. On its banks are some very flourishing settlements, and they are well timbered. A poor miserable village [Santa Rosalia] is at the confluence. Came 10 miles up the Florada to dinner, and at night stopped at a private house. This property or plantation was valued formerly at $300,000, extending on the Florada, from the small place where we slept on the 30th of April, 30 leagues up said river. Distance 45 miles.[II'-18]

Finding that a new species of discipline had taken place, and that the suspicions of my friend Malgares were much more acute than ever, I conceived it necessary to take some steps to secure the notes I had taken, which had been clandestinely acquired. In the night I arose, and after making my men charge all their pieces well, I took my small books and rolled them up in small rolls, tore a fine shirt to pieces, and wrapped it round the papers, and put them down in the barrels of the guns, until we just left room for the tompoins [tampons], which were then carefully put in; the remainder we secured about our bodies under our shirts. This occupied about two hours, but was effected without discovery and without suspicions.

May 2d. Marched early, and in 4¼ hours arrived at Guaxequillo,[II'-19] situated on the river Florada, where we were to exchange our friend Malgares for Captain Barelo, who was a Mexican by birth, born near the capital and entered as a cadet at Guaxequillo near 20 years past, and who, by his extraordinary merits, being a Creolian, had been promoted to a captaincy, which was even by himself considered his ultimate promotion. He was a gentleman in his manners, generous and frank, and I believe a good soldier.

Sunday, May 3d. At Guaxequillo the captain gave up his command to Malgares. At night the officers gave a ball, at which appeared at least sixty women, ten or a dozen of whom were very handsome.

May 4th. Don Hymen Guloo arrived from Chihuahua, accompanied by a citizen and a friar, who had been arrested by order of the commandant-general, and was on his way to Mexico for trial.

May 5th. The party marched with all the spare horses and baggage.

May 6th. Marched at five o'clock; ascended the river four miles, when we left it to our right and took off S. 60° E., eight miles. Our friend Malgares accompanied us a few miles, to whom we bade an eternal adieu, if war does not bring us together in the field of battle opposed as the most deadly enemies, when our hearts acknowledge the greatest friendship. Halted at ten o'clock, and marched again at four. No water on the road; detached a Spanish soldier in search of some, who did not join us until twelve o'clock at night. Encamped in the open prairie; no wood; no water, except what the soldier brought us in gourds. The mules came up at eleven o'clock at night. Distance 30 miles.[II'-20]

May 7th. Marched very early; wind fresh from the south. The punctuality of Captain Barelo as to hours was remarkable. Arrived at half past nine o'clock at a spring [Ojo S. Bernarde of Pike's map?], the first water from Guaxequillo. The mules did not unload, but continued on nine miles to another spring [Ojo S Blas of Pike's map] at the foot of a mountain, with good pasturage round it; mountains on each side all day.[II'-21]

May 8th. Marched, at five miles due west, through a gap in the mountains; then turned S. 20° E., and more south to a [Cerro Gordo or Andabazo] river about 20 feet wide, with high steep banks; now dry except in holes, but sometimes full and impassable. Halted at seven o'clock and sent on the loaded mules. Marched at five o'clock; came ten miles and encamped without water. Distance 18 miles.[II'-22]

May 9th. Marched between four and five o'clock and arrived at Pelia [Pelayo] at eight.[II'-23] This is only a station for a few soldiers, but is surrounded by [copper] mines. At this place are two large warm springs, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and this is the water obliged to be used by the party who are stationed there. Here we remained all day. Captain Barelo had two beeves killed for his and my men, and charged nothing to either. Here he received orders from the general to lead us through the wilderness to Montelovez [Monclova], in order that we should not approximate to the frontiers of Mexico, which we should have done by the usual route of Pattos [Patos], Paras [Parras], etc.

Sunday, May 10th. Marched past one copper mine [Oruilla], now diligently worked. At this place the proprietor had 100,000 sheep, cattle, horses, etc. Arrived at the Cadena,[II'-24] a house built and occupied by a priest. It is situated on a small stream at the pass of the [Sierra de las Mimbres] mountains, called by the Spaniards [Puerta de Cadena, or] Door of the Prison, from its being surrounded with mountains. The proprietor was at Sumbraretto [Sombrerito], distance six days' march. This hacienda was obliged to furnish accommodations to all travelers.

Marched at five o'clock, passed the chain of mountains due east [in the direction of Mapimi] 12 miles, and encamped without water. Distance 31 miles.

May 11th. Marched and arrived at Maupemie [Mapimi[II'-25]] at eight o'clock, a village situated at the foot of mountains of minerals, where they worked eight or nine mines. The mass of the people were naked and starved wretches. The proprietor of the mines gave us an elegant repast. Here the orders of Salcedo were explained to me by the captain. I replied that they excited my laughter, as there were disaffected persons sufficient to serve as guides should an army ever come into the country.

Came on three miles further, where were fig-trees and a fruit called by the French La Grain [sic], situated on a little stream which flowed through the gardens, and formed a terrestrial paradise. Here we remained all day sleeping in the shade of the fig-trees, and at night continued our residence in the garden. We obliged the inhabitants with a ball, who expressed great anxiety for a relief from their present distressed state, and a change of government.

May 12th. Was awakened in the morning by the singing of the birds and the perfume of the trees around. I attempted to send two of my soldiers to town [Mapimi], but they were overtaken by a dragoon and ordered back; on their return I again ordered them to go, and told them if a soldier attempted to stop them to take him off his horse and flog him. This I did, as I conceived it was the duty of the captain to explain his orders relative to me, which he had not done; and I conceived that this would bring on an explanation. They were pursued by a dragoon through the town, who rode after them, making use of ill language. They attempted to catch him, but could not. As I had mentioned my intention of sending my men to town after some stores to Captain Barelo, and he had not made any objections, I conceived it was acting with duplicity to send men to watch the movements of my messengers. I therefore determined they should punish the dragoons unless the captain had candor sufficient to explain his reasons for not wishing my men to go to town, in which wish I should undoubtedly have acquiesced; but as he never mentioned the circumstance, I was guardedly silent, and the affair never interrupted our harmony.

We marched at five o'clock; came on 15 miles and encamped without water. One mile on this side of the little village[II'-26] the road branches out into three. The right-hand one by Pattos, Paras, Saltelo [Patos, Parras, Saltillo], etc., is the main road to [the city of] Mexico and San Antonio [in Texas]. The [middle] road which we took leaves all the villages a little to the right, passing only some plantations. The left-hand one goes immediately through the mountains to Montelovez, but is dangerous for small parties on account of the savages; this road is called the route by the Bolson of Maupeme, and was first traveled by Monsieur de Croix, afterward viceroy of Peru. In passing from Chihuahua to Texas, by this [left-hand] route, you make in seven days what it takes you 15 or 20 by the ordinary one; but it is very scarce of water, and your guards must either be so strong as to defy the Appaches, or calculate to escape them by swiftness; for they fill those mountains, whence they continually carry on a predatory war against the Spanish settlements and caravans.

We this day passed on to the territories of the Marquis de San Miquel [Miguel], who owns from the mountains of the Rio del Norte to some distance in the kingdom of Old Mexico.

May 13th. Came on to the river Brasses [Rio Nasas,[II'-27] on which was the] Ranche de St. Antonio, part of the marquis' estate. My boy and self halted at the river Brasses to water our horses, having ridden on ahead, and took the bridles from their mouths in order that they might drink freely, which they could not do with the Spanish bridles. The horse I rode had been accustomed to being held by his master in a peculiar manner when bridled, and would not let me put it on again for a long time; in the meantime my boy's horse ran away, and it was out of our power to catch him again. But when we arrived at the Ranche,[II'-28] we soon had out a number of boys, who brought in the horse and all his different equipments, which were scattered on the route. This certainly was a strong proof of their honesty, and did not go unrewarded. In the evening we gave them a ball on the green, according to custom. We here learned that one peck of corn, with three pounds of meat per week, was the allowance given a grown person.

May 14th. Did not march until half past four o'clock [p. m.]. About nine o'clock [a. m.] an officer arrived from St. Rosa[II'-29] with 24 men, with two Appaches in irons. They were noble-looking fellows, of large stature, and appeared by no means cast down by their misfortunes, although they knew their fate was transportation beyond the sea, never more to see their friends and relations.

Knowing as I did the intention of the Spaniards toward those people, I would have liberated them if in my power. I went near them, gave them to understand we were friends, and conveyed to them some articles which would be of service if chance offered.

This day the thermometer stood at 30° Raumauer [Réaumur], 99½° Fahrenheit. The dust and drought of the road obliged us to march in the night, when we came 15 miles and encamped without water. Indeed, this road which the general obliged us to take is almost impassable at this season for want of water, whilst the other is plentifully supplied.

May 15th. Marched early and came on five miles, when we arrived at a pit dug in a hollow, which afforded a small quantity of water for ourselves and beasts.[II'-30] Here we were obliged to remain all day in order to travel in the night, as our beasts could enjoy the benefit of water. Left at half past five o'clock and came on 15 miles by eleven o'clock, when we encamped without water or food for our beasts. Passed a miserable burnt-up soil. Distance 20 miles.

May 16th. Marched two miles and arrived at a wretched habitation [El Pozo?], where we drew water from a well for all the beasts. Marched in the evening and made 15 miles further [sic]. The right-hand road we left on this side of Maupeme [Mapimi], and joined it about four miles further. Distance 15 [sic] miles.[II'-31]

Sunday, May 17th. Marched; about seven o'clock came in sight of Paras [Parras], which we left on the right and halted at the Hacienda of St. Lorenzo, a short league to the north of said village.[II'-32] At the Hacienda of St. Lorenzo was a young priest, who was extremely anxious for a change of government, and came to our beds and conversed for hours on the subject.

May 18th. Marched early and came through a mountainous tract of country, well watered, with houses situated here and there amongst the rocks. Joined the main road at a Hacienda of [Cienega Grande], belonging to the Marquis de San Miquel [Miguel]; good gardens and fruit; also a fine stream.[II'-33] The mules did not arrive until late at night, when it had commenced raining.

May 19th. Did not march until three o'clock, the captain not being very well. He here determined to take the main road, notwithstanding the orders of General Salcedo. Came on 10 miles [vicinity of Rancho Nuevo and Castañuela[II'-34]]. Met a deserter from Captain [Francis] Johnston's company [then probably of the 2d Infantry]. He returned, came to camp, and begged me to take him back to his company; but I would not give any encouragement to the scoundrel—only a little change, as he was without a farthing.

May 20th. Came to the Hacienda of Pattos [Patos] by nine o'clock. This is a handsome place, where the Marquis De San Miquel [Miguel] frequently spends his summers, the distance enabling him to come from [the City of] Mexico in his coach in 10 days. Here we met the Mexican post-rider going to Chewawa [Chihuahua]. Don Hymie [Hymen], who had left us at Paras [Parras], joined in a coach and six, in which we came out to a little settlement called the Florida, one league from Pattos, due north. Distance 18 miles.[II'-35]

The Hacienda of Pattos was a square inclosure of about 300 feet, the building being one story high, but some of the apartments were elegantly furnished. In the center of the square was a jet d'eau, which cast forth water from eight spouts, extended from a colossean female form. From this fountain all the neighboring inhabitants got their supply of water. The marquis had likewise a very handsome church, which, with its ornaments, cost him at least $20,000; to officiate in which, he maintained a little stiff superstitious priest. In the rear of the palace, for so it might be called, was a fish-pond, in which were immense numbers of fine fish. The population of Florida is about 2,000 souls. This was our nearest point to the city of Mexico.

May 21st. Marched down the [San Antonio] water-course over a rough and stony road about 10 miles, when we left it on the right [crossed it from E. to W.], and came on eight miles further to a horse-range of the marquis', where he had four of his soldiers as a guarda caballo [herders]. Halted at half past nine o'clock.[II'-36] At this place we had a spring of bad water.

May 22d. Marched [north] at three o'clock; came on 16 miles to a small shed, and in the afternoon to la Rancho, eight miles to the left of the main road, near the foot of the mountain, where was a pond of water, but no houses. Some Spanish soldiers were here. We left Pattos mountain on our left and right, but here there was a cross mountain [El Monte de los Tres Rios] over which we were to pass in the morning.[II'-37]

The marquis maintains 1,500 troops to protect his vassals and property from the savages. They are all cavalry, as well dressed and armed as the king's, but are treated by the king's troops as if vastly inferior.

May 23d. Marched early and came to a spring in the mountain.[II'-38]

Sunday, May 24th. Marched at an early hour and passed through [El Paso de los Tres Rios in] the mountains, where there was scarcely any road, called the Mountain of the Three Rivers. At the 13th mile joined the main road, which we had left to our right on the 22d instant, and in one hour after came to the main Mexican road from the eastern provinces; thence northwest to the Rancho, nine miles from Montelovez, whence the captain sent in an express to give notice of our approach.[II'-39]

May 25th. In the afternoon Lieutenant Adams, commandant of the company of Montelovez, arrived in a coach and six to escort us to town, where we arrived about five o'clock. In the evening visited Captain de Ferara [qu.: Don Juan Joaquin de Ferrero?], commandant of the troops of Cogquilla, and inspector of the five provinces.

Lieutenant Adams, who commanded this place, was the son of an Irish engineer in the service of Spain. He had married a rich girl of the Passo del Norte, and they lived here in elegance and style, for the country. We put up at his quarters and were very hospitably entertained.

May 26th. Made preparations for marching the next day. I arose early, before any of our people were up, and walked nearly round the town; and from the hill took a small survey, with my pencil and a pocket compass which I always carried with me. Returned and found them at breakfast, they having sent three or four of my men to search for me. The Spanish troops at this place were remarkably polite, always fronting and saluting when I passed. This I attributed to their commandant, Lieutenant Adams.

May 27th. Marched at seven o'clock, after taking an affectionate leave of Don Hymen, and at half past twelve arrived at the Hacienda of Don Melcher [Michon on the map], situated on the same stream of Montelovez.[II'-40]

Don Melcher was a man of very large fortune, polite, generous, and friendly. He had in his service a man who had deserted from Captain Lockwood's[II'-41] company, first regiment of infantry, by the name of Pratt. From this man he had acquired a considerable quantity of crude indigested information relative to the United States, and when he met with us his thirst after knowledge of our laws and institutions appeared to be insatiable. He caused a fine large sheep to be killed and presented to my men.

May 28th. Marched early and arrived at Encina Hacienda[II'-42] at ten o'clock. This place was owned by Don Barego [Borages on the map].

When we arrived at the Hacienda of Encina, I found a youth of 18 sitting in the house quite genteelly dressed, whom I immediately recognized from his physiognomy to be an American, and entered into conversation with him. He expressed great satisfaction at meeting a countryman, and we had a great deal of conversation. He sat at a table with us and partook of a cold collation of fruits and confectionery; but I was much surprised to learn, shortly after we quit the table, that he was a deserter from our army; on which I questioned him, and he replied that his name was Griffith; he had enlisted in Philadelphia, arrived at New Orleans, and deserted as soon as possible; the Spaniards had treated him much better than his own countrymen, and he should never return. I was extremely astonished at his insolence, and mortified that I should have been betrayed into any polite conduct toward the scoundrel. I told him that it was astonishing he should have had the impertinence to address himself to me, knowing that I was an American officer. He muttered something about being in a country where he was protected, etc.; on which I told him that if he again opened his mouth to me, I would instantly chastise him, notwithstanding his supposed protection. He was silent; I called up one of my soldiers and told him in his hearing, that if he attempted to mix with them to turn him out of company; which they executed by leading him to the door of their room a short time after, when he entered it. When dinner was nearly ready, I sent a message to the proprietor, that we assumed no right to say whom he should introduce to his table, but that we should think it a great indignity offered to a Spanish officer to attempt to set him down at the same board with a deserter from their army; and that if the man who was at the table in the morning were to make his appearance again, we should decline to eat at it. He replied that it was an accident which had produced the event of the morning; that he was sorry our feelings had been injured, and that he would take care he [Griffith] did not appear again whilst we were there.

Our good friend Don Melcher here overtook us, and passed the evening with us.

This day we passed the last mountains, and again entered the great Mississippi valley, it being six months and 13 days since we first came in sight of them. Distance 20 miles.

May 29th. Marched at seven o'clock and came to the Millada river and a Rancho. [Distance 20 miles.[II'-43]]

May 30th. Marched at five o'clock and arrived at the Sabine river at eight; forded it. Marched in the evening at four o'clock, at ten encamped at the second ridge without water. Distance 27 miles.[II'-44]

Sunday, May 31st. Marched early and at nine o'clock arrived at a Rancho on fine running water; course east and west. Marched eight miles further to a point of woods, and encamped. No water. Distance 23 miles.[II'-45]