The Project Gutenberg eBook of History of Lace
Title: History of Lace
Author: Mrs. Bury Palliser
Editor: Alice Dryden
Margaret Jourdain
Release date: April 21, 2018 [eBook #57009]
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Keith Edkins, Constanze Hofmann, David Edwards
and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
Libraries.)
HISTORY OF LACE
Anne, Daughter of Sir Peter Vanlore, Kt.,
first wife of Sir Charles Cæsar, Kt., about 1614.
The lace is probably Flemish, Sir Peter having come from Utrecht.
From the picture the property of her descendant, Captain Cottrell-Dormer.
Frontispiece.
History of Lace
BY
MRS. BURY PALLISER
ENTIRELY REVISED, RE-WRITTEN, AND ENLARGED
UNDER THE EDITORSHIP OF
M. JOURDAIN AND ALICE DRYDEN
WITH 266 ILLUSTRATIONS
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1902
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.
PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION
Nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the History of Lace was published. As it is still the classical work on the subject, and many developments in the Art have taken place since 1875, it seemed desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out.
The present Revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty.
The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been preserved with their designations as in the 1875 edition, which differ materially from the first two editions. Nearly a hundred new illustrations have been added, and several portraits to show different fashions of wearing lace.
The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
M. Jourdain.
Alice Dryden.
London, September, 1901.
CONTENTS
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| PAGE | |||
| Anne, Daughter of Sir Peter Vanlore, Kt. | Frontispiece | ||
| Gold Lace found in a barrow | Fig. 1 | 4 | |
| Argentan.—Circular Bobbin Réseau; Venetian Needlepoint | Plate I | 12 | |
| Italian Bobbin Réseau; Six-pointed Star-meshed Bobbin Réseau; Brussels Bobbin Réseau; Fond Chant of Chantilly and Point de Paris; Details of Bobbin Réseau and Toile; Details of Needle Réseau and Buttonhole Stitches | Plate II | 14 | |
| Point Coupé | Fig. 2 | 18 | |
| Altar or Table-cloth of Fine Linen (probably Italian) | Plate III | 18 | |
| Laces | Fig. 3 | 19 | |
| Elizabethan Sampler | " 5 | 22 | |
| Impresa of Queen Margaret of Navarre | " 4 | 23 | |
| Spider-work | Figs. 6, 7 | 24 | |
| Fan Made at Burano | Plate IV | 24 | |
| Italian Punto Reale | " V | 24 | |
| Grande Dantelle au Point devant l'Aiguille | Fig. 8 | 28 | |
| Petite Dantelle | Figs. 9-12 | 29 | |
| Passement au Fuseau | Figs. 13, 14 | 30 | |
| Passement au Fuseau | Fig. 15 | 31 | |
| Merletti a Piombini | " 16 | 31 | |
| Italian.—Modern Reproduction at Burano | Plate VI | 32 | |
| Heraldic (Carnival Lace) | " VII | 32 | |
| Old Mechlin | Fig. 17 | 35 | |
| Italian, Venetian, Flat Needle-point Lace | Plate VIII | 36 | |
| Portion of a Band of Needle-point Lace | " IX | 36 | |
| Guipure | Fig. 18 | 39 | |
| Tape Guipure | " 19 | 40 | |
| Italian.—Point de Venise à la Rose | Plate X | 44 | |
| Italian.—Point Plat de Venise | " IXI | 46 | |
| Italian.—Point de Venise à Réseau | " XII | 48 | |
| Mermaid Lace | Fig. 20 | 50 | |
| Reticella | " 21 | 50 | |
| Punto a Gropo | " 22 | 52 | |
| Gros Point de Venise | " 23 | 52 | |
| Punto a Maglia | " 24 | 53 | |
| Punto Tirato | " 25 | 54 | |
|
Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées |
" 26 | 54 | |
| Venise Point | " 27 | 55 | |
| Gros Point de Venise | " 28 | 56 | |
| Point de Venise | " 29 | 56 | |
| Point Plat de Venise | " 30 | 56 | |
| Point de Venise à Réseau | " 31 | 58 | |
| Burano Point | " 32 | 60 | |
| Italian.—Modern Point de Burano | Plate XIII | 60 | |
| Italian.—Modern Reproduction at Burano | " XIV | 62 | |
| Italian.—Milanese, Bobbin-made | " IXV | 64 | |
| Reticella from Milan | Fig. 33 | 65 | |
| Italian.—Venetian, Needle-made | Plate XVI | 66 | |
| Italian.—Milanese, Bobbin-made | " XVII | 66 | |
| Unfinished Drawn-work | Fig. 34 | 69 | |
| Cushion made at the School | Plate XVIII | 70 | |
| Italy.—Group of Workers at Brazza School | " XIX | 70 | |
| Genoa Point, Bobbin-made | Fig. 35 | 74 | |
| Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita | " 36 | 76 | |
| Italian.—Bobbin Tape With Needle-made Réseau | Plate XX | 76 | |
| Italian, Genoese.—Border | " XXI | 76 | |
| Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book | Fig. 37 | 77 | |
| Fringed Macramé | " 38 | 80 | |
| Italian.—Old Peasant Laces, Bobbin-made | Plates XXII, XXIII | 80 | |
| Italian.—Modern Peasant Lace | Plate XXIV | 80 | |
| Silk Gimp Lace | Fig. 39 | 84 | |
| Sicilian.—Old Drawn-work | Plate XXV | 84 | |
| South Italian | " XXVI | 84 | |
| Reticella, or Greek Lace | Fig. 40 | 85 | |
| Loubeaux de Verdale | " 41 | 88 | |
| Italian, Rapallo—Modern Peasant Lace | Plate XXVII | 88 | |
| Maltese.—Modern Bobbin-made | " XXVIII | 88 | |
| Bobbin Lace (Ceylon) | Fig. 42 | 89 | |
| The Work Room (16th century engraving) | " 43 | 91 | |
| Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun | " 44 | 94 | |
| Spanish.—Modern Thread Bobbin Lace | Plate XXIX | 94 | |
| Spanish, Blonde.—White Silk Darning on Machine Net | " XXX | 94 | |
| Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun | Fig. 45 | 95 | |
| Unfini"hed Work"of a Span" | " 46 | 96 | |
| Old Spanish Pillow Lace | " 47 | 100 | |
| Portrait, Duchesse de Montpensier | Plate XXXI | 100 | |
| Jewish | " IXXXII | 104 | |
| Spanish | " XXXIII | 104 | |
| Bobbin Lace (Madeira) | Fig. 48 | 106 | |
| Bobbin"Lace (Brazil) | " 49 | 107 | |
| Spanish.—Pillow-made 19th Century | Plate XXXIV | 108 | |
| Paraguay.—"Nauduti" | " XXXV | 108 | |
| Lace-making | Fig. 50 | 110 | |
| Flemish.—Portion of Bed-Cover | Plate XXXVI | 110 | |
| Cap of Emperor Charles V. | Fig. 51 | 112 | |
| Isabella Clara Eugenia, Daughter of Philip II. | " 52 | 112 | |
| Mary, Queen of Hungary, Cuff | " 53 | 113 | |
|
Belgian Lace School |
" 54 | 114 | |
| Old Flemish Bobbin Lace | " 55 | 114 | |
| Old Flemish.—Trolle Kant | " 56 | 115 | |
| Brussels.—Point d'Angleterre à Brides | Plate XXXVII | 116 | |
| Flemish.—Tape Lace, Bobbin-made | " XXXVIII | 116 | |
| Brussels Needle-Point | Fig. 57 | 118 | |
| Brussel" Needle-" | " 58 | 120 | |
| Brussels.—Point à l'Aiguille | " 58 | A | 120 |
| Old Brussels.—Point d'Angleterre | " 59 | 122 | |
| Old Br"ssels.—P"int d'Ang" | " 60 | 124 | |
| Mechlin, 17th and 18th Century | Plate XXXIX | 126 | |
| Mechlin.—Period Louis XVI. | Fig. 61 | 127 | |
| Mechlin, formerly belonging to H.M. Queen Charlotte | " 62 | 128 | |
| Mechlin.—Three Specimens From Victoria and Albert Museum | Plate XL | 128 | |
| A Lady of Antwerp | Fig. 63 | 130 | |
| Antwerp Pot Lace | " 64 | 130 | |
| Valenciennes Lace of Ypres | " 65 | 132 | |
| Flemish.—Flat Spanish Bobbin Lace | Plate XLI | 132 | |
| Flemish.—Guipure de Flandre | " VXLII | 134 | |
| Belgian.—Bobbin-made, Binche | " IXLIII | 136 | |
| Belgia".—Bobbi"-made, Marche | " IXLIV | 136 | |
| Drawn and Embroidered Muslin, Flemish | " IIXLV | 136 | |
| Ruff, Edged With Lace | " IXLVI | 142 | |
| Brussels.—Flounce, Bobbin-made | " XLVII | 144 | |
| Cinq-Mars.—M. de Versailles | Fig. 66 | 145 | |
| Cinq"Mars.—After his portrait by Le Wain | " 67 | 146 | |
| Lace Rose and Garter | " 68 | 147 | |
| Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III | " 69 | 148 | |
| Brussels.—Bobbin-made, Period Louis XIV. | Plate XLVIII | 150 | |
| Bru"els.—Point d'Angleterre à Réseau | " XLIX | 150 | |
| Anne of Austria | Fig. 70 | 151 | |
| A Courtier of the Regency | " 71 | 152 | |
| Canons of Louis XIV | " 72 | 154 | |
| Chateau de Louvai | " 73 | 156 | |
| Chenille Run on a Bobbin-ground | Plate L | 156 | |
| Brussels.—Bobbin-made | " LI | 156 | |
| Le Grand Bébé | Fig. 74 | 162 | |
| Louvois, 1691 | " 75 | 163 | |
| Madame de Maintenon | " 76 | 164 | |
| Lady in Morning déshabille | " 77 | 165 | |
| Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque | " 78 | 168 | |
| Madame du Lude en Steinkerque | " 79 | 168 | |
| Madame Palatine | " 80 | 169 | |
| Brussels.—Modern Point de Gaze | Plate LII | 170 | |
| Madame Sophie de France, 1782 | Fig. 81 | 175 | |
| Madame Adélaide de France | " 82 | 176 | |
| Madame Louise de France | Plate LIII | 176 | |
| Madame Thérèse | Fig. 83 | 177 | |
| Marie-Antoinette | " 84 | 179 | |
| Madame Adélaide de France | " 85 | 182 | |
|
French.—Border of Point Plat de France |
Plate LIV | 188 | |
| Colbert, + 1683 | Fig. 86 | 189 | |
| Venice Point | " 87 | 191 | |
| French.—Point d'Alençon | Plate LV | 192 | |
| Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé | Fig. 88 | 194 | |
| Bed made for Napoleon I. | " 89 | 197 | |
| Alençon Point à Petites Bredes | " 90 | 200 | |
| Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. | " 91 | 200 | |
| Point d'Alençon. Flounce | Plate LVI | 202-3 | |
| Point d'Argentan | Fig. 92 | 204 | |
| Poi"t d'Arg"ntan. Grande Bride ground | " 93 | 206 | |
| French.—Point d'Argentan, 18th Century | Plate LVII | 208 | |
| Point de Paris | Fig. 94 | 210 | |
| Point de France | " 95 | 210 | |
| French (or Dutch).—Victoria and Albert Museum | Plate LVIII | 212 | |
| Chantilly | Fig. 96 | 214 | |
| Cauchoise | " 97 | 217 | |
| French, Chantilly.—Flounce | Plate LIX | 218 | |
| French, Le Puy.—Black Silk Guipure | " LX | 218 | |
| Petit Poussin, Dieppe | Fig. 98 | 219 | |
| Ave Maria, Dieppe | " 99 | 220 | |
| Point de Dieppe | " 100 | 221 | |
| Dentelle à la Vierge | " 101 | 222 | |
| Duc de Peuthièvre | " 102 | 223 | |
| French.—Blonde Male, in Spanish Style | Plate LXI | 226 | |
| Modern Black Lace of Bayeux | Fig. 103 | 227 | |
| Point Colbert | " 104 | 228 | |
| Valenciennes, 1650-1780 | " 105 | 230 | |
| Valen"iennes, Period, Louis XIV. | " 106 | 232 | |
| Valen"iennes, 17th and 18th Century | Plate LXII | 232 | |
| Valen" | Fig. 107 | 234 | |
| Valenciennes Lappet | " 108 | 234 | |
| Lille | " 109 | 236 | |
| Li" | " 110 | 238 | |
| Arras | " 111 | 240 | |
| French, Cambrai | Plates LXIII, LXIV | 246 | |
| French, le Puy | Plate LXV | 246 | |
| Point de Bourgogne | Fig. 112 | 256 | |
| William, Prince of Orange | Plate LXVI | 258 | |
| Dutch Bobbin Lace | Fig. 113 | 260 | |
| Tomb of Barbara Uttmann | " 114 | 261 | |
| Barbara Uttmann | " 114 | A | 262 |
| Swiss, Neuchatel | Plate LXVII | 264 | |
| German, Nuremberg | " ILXVIII | 264 | |
| English, Bucks | " IIILXIX | 264 | |
| Hungarian.—Bobbin Lace | " IIIILXX | 268 | |
| Austro-Hungarian | " IIILXXI | 268 | |
| Shirt Collar of Christian IV. | Fig. 115 | 273 | |
| Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin | " 116 | 274 | |
| Russian—Needlepoint; German—Saxon | Plate LXXII | 276 | |
| Russian, Old Bobbin-made | " LXXIII | 276 | |
|
Russian, Bobbin-made in Thread |
" LXXIV | 280 | |
| Dalecarlian Lace | Fig. 117 | 281 | |
| Collar of Gustavus Adolphus | " 118 | 282 | |
| Russia, Bobbin-made, 19th Century | " 119 | 284 | |
| Cap, Flemish or German | Plate XXV | 288 | |
| Fisher, Bishop of Rochester | Fig. 120 | 292 | |
| English.—Cutwork and Needle-point | Plate LXXVI | 292 | |
| English.—Devonshire "Trolly." | " LXXVII | 292 | |
| Fisher, Bishop of Rochester | Fig. 121 | 293 | |
| Marie de Lorraine | Plate LXXVIII | 298 | |
| Queen Elizabeth's Smock | Fig. 122 | 308 | |
| Christening Caps, Needle-made Brussels | Figs. 123, 124 | 309 | |
| Mary Sidney, Countess of Pembroke | Plate LXXIX | 316 | |
| Henry Wrothesley, Third Earl of Southampton | " LXXX | 320 | |
| Monument of Princess Sophia | Fig. 125 | 321 | |
| Mon"ment "f Pri"cess Mary | " 126 | 322 | |
| Mary, Countess of Pembroke | " 127 | 323 | |
| Elizabeth, Princess Palatine | Plate LXXXI | 326 | |
| Falling Collar of the 17th Century | Fig. 128 | 327 | |
| Boots, Cuffs | Figs. 129, 130 | 328 | |
| English Needle-made Lace | Fig. 131 | 328 | |
| James Harrington | Plate LXXXII | 332 | |
| James, the Old Pretender, and His Sister, Princess Louisa | " LXXXIII | 344 | |
| John Law, the Paris Banker | " LXXXIV | 352 | |
| Ripon | Fig. 132 | 373 | |
| English, Buckinghamshire, Bobbin Lace | Plate LXXXV | 374 | |
| Buckinghamshire Trolly | Fig. 133 | 381 | |
| Bucking"amshire Point | " 134 | 382 | |
| Bucking"amshire Po" | " 135 | 383 | |
| English, Northamptonshire, Bobbin Lace | Plate LXXXVI | 384 | |
| Old Flemish | Fig. 136 | 385 | |
| Old Brussels | " 137 | 385 | |
| "Run" Lace, Newport Pagnell | " 138 | 386 | |
| English Point, Northampton | " 139 | 386 | |
| "Baby" Lace, Northampton | " 140 | 387 | |
| nB"byn L"ce Beds | " 141 | 387 | |
| nB"byn L"ce Bucks | " 142 | 387 | |
| Wire Ground, Northampton | " 143 | 388 | |
| Valenciennes " | " 144 | 388 | |
| Regency Point, Bedford | " 145 | 389 | |
| Insertion, " | " 146 | 389 | |
| Plaited Lace, " | " 147 | 392 | |
| Raised Plait, " | " 148 | 393 | |
| English, Suffolk, Bobbin Lace | Plate LXXXVII | 394 | |
| English Needle-made Lace | Fig. 149 | 396 | |
| Honiton With the Vrai Réseau | Plate LXXXVIII | 402 | |
| Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire | Fig. 150 | 404 | |
| Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral | " 151 | 406 | |
| Monument of Lady Doddridge Exe"er Cath" | " 152 | 407 | |
| Honiton, sewn on plain pillow ground | " 153 | 408 | |
|
Old Devonshire |
" 154 | 408 | |
| Honiton Guipure | " 155 | 410 | |
| Honeysuckle, Sprig of Modern Honiton | " 156 | 411 | |
| Old Devonshire Point | " 157 | 412 | |
| Lappet made by the late Mrs. Treadwin of Exeter | " 158 | 412 | |
| Venetian Relief in Point | " 159 | 414 | |
| English.—Devonshire. Fan Made at Beer for the Paris Exhibition, 1900 | Plate LXXXIX | 416 | |
| Sir Alexander Gibson | Fig. 160 | 424 | |
| Scotch, Hamilton | " 161 | 431 | |
| Irish, Youghal | Plate XC | 436 | |
| Irish, Carrickmacross | " IIXCI | 442 | |
| Irish, Limerick Lace | " IXCII | 442 | |
| Irish, Crochet Lace | " XCIII | 446 | |
| Arms of the Framework Knitters' Company | Fig. 162 | 447 | |
| The Lagetta, or Lace-bark Tree | " 163 | 456 | |
| Metre P. Quinty | Figs. 164, 165 | 460 | |
| Pattern Book, Augsburg | " 166, 167 | 462 | |
| Augsburg | Fig. 168 | 463 | |
| Le Pompe, 1559 | " 169 | 473 | |
| Manner of Pricking Pattern | " 170 | 486 | |
| Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605 | " 171 | 492 | |
| Monogram | " 172 | 492 | |
| "Bavari," from "Ornamento nobile" of Lucretia Romana | " 173 | 498 | |