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History of Lace

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A comprehensive survey of lace and related needlework documents technical methods, stylistic types, and the craft's regional histories across Europe and beyond. Beginning with foundational needlework and cut-work techniques, it explains bobbin and needle laces, reticella, guipure and machine-made net, then proceeds to country-by-country studies—Italy, the Mediterranean, Iberia, Flanders, France, the Low Countries, England, Scotland, Ireland and others—followed by chapters on manufactories, local industries, smuggling, and production methods. The work includes many illustrations, a glossary and appendix, and combines practical descriptions of stitches and patterns with accounts of trade, manufacture, and changing fashions.

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Title: History of Lace

Author: Mrs. Bury Palliser

Editor: Alice Dryden

Margaret Jourdain

Release date: April 21, 2018 [eBook #57009]

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Keith Edkins, Constanze Hofmann, David Edwards
and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
Libraries.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF LACE ***

HISTORY OF LACE

Anne, Daughter of Sir Peter Vanlore, Kt.,
first wife of Sir Charles Cæsar, Kt., about 1614.
The lace is probably Flemish, Sir Peter having come from Utrecht.
From the picture the property of her descendant, Captain Cottrell-Dormer.

Frontispiece.

History of Lace

BY

MRS. BURY PALLISER

ENTIRELY REVISED, RE-WRITTEN, AND ENLARGED

UNDER THE EDITORSHIP OF

M. JOURDAIN AND ALICE DRYDEN

WITH 266 ILLUSTRATIONS

NEW YORK

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

1902

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.

PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION

Nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the History of Lace was published. As it is still the classical work on the subject, and many developments in the Art have taken place since 1875, it seemed desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out.

The present Revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty.

The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been preserved with their designations as in the 1875 edition, which differ materially from the first two editions. Nearly a hundred new illustrations have been added, and several portraits to show different fashions of wearing lace.

The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

M. Jourdain.

Alice Dryden.

London, September, 1901.

CONTENTS

I.— Needlework 1
II.— Cut-work 14
III.— Lace 26
IV.— Italy.VeniceMilan ("Milano la Grande")—FlorenceThe AbruzziRomagnaNaplesGenoa ("Genova La Superba")—CantuSicily 45
V.— GreeceCreteTurkeyMalta 82
VI.— SpainPortugal 90
VII.— FlandersBrussels (Brabant)—MechlinAntwerpFlanders (West)—Flanders (East)—Hainault 109
VIII.— France to Louis XIV. 139
IX.— Louis XIV. 150
X.— Louis XIV.continued 161
XI.— Louis XV. 171
XII.— Louis XVI. to the Empire 179
XIII.— The Lace Manufactures of FranceAlençon (Dép. Orne), Normandy 188
XIV.— Argentan (Dép. Orne) 202
XV.— Isle de France.Paris (Dép. Seine)—Chantilly (Dép. Oise) 209
XVI.— NormandySeine InférieureCalvadosBretagne 216
XVII.— Valenciennes (Dép. du Nord)—Lille (Dép. du Nord)—Arras (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)—Bailleul (Dép. du Nord) 230
XVIII.— Auvergne and VélayLe Puy (Dép. Haute-Loire)—Aurillac and Murat (Dép. Cantal) 242
XIX.— LimousinLorraineChampagneBurgundyLyonnoisOrléanoisBerryPoitou 250
XX.— Holland, Germany, Switzerland, Austria and HungaryHollandSaxonyGermany (North and South)—Switzerland 258
XXI.— DenmarkSwedenRussia 272

XXII.—

England To Queen Elizabeth 285
XXIII.— Queen Elizabeth 299
XXIV.— James I. to the Restoration.James I.Charles I.The Commonwealth 315
XXV.— Charles II. to the House of Hanover.Charles II.James II.William III.Queen Anne 335
XXVI.— George I.George II. 351
XXVII.— Smuggling 358
XXVIII.— George III. 363
XXIX.— The Lace Manufactures of England 371
XXX.— BedfordshireBuckinghamshireNorthamptonshireSuffolk 375
XXXI.— Wiltshire and Dorsetshire 395
XXXII.— DevonshireHonitonTrolly LaceJapan 399
XXXIII.— Scotland 418
XXXIV.— Lace Manufactures of Scotland 428
XXXV.— Ireland 435
XXXVI.— Bobbin Net and Machine-Made LaceBobbin NetFranceBelgiumMachinery Lace 447
APPENDIX 459
GLOSSARY OF TERMS 503
INDEX 507

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Anne, Daughter of Sir Peter Vanlore, Kt. Frontispiece
Gold Lace found in a barrow Fig. 1 4
Argentan.—Circular Bobbin Réseau; Venetian Needlepoint Plate I 12
Italian Bobbin Réseau; Six-pointed Star-meshed Bobbin Réseau; Brussels Bobbin Réseau; Fond Chant of Chantilly and Point de Paris; Details of Bobbin Réseau and Toile; Details of Needle Réseau and Buttonhole Stitches Plate II 14
Point Coupé Fig. 2 18
Altar or Table-cloth of Fine Linen (probably Italian) Plate III 18
Laces Fig. 3 19
Elizabethan Sampler "   5 22
Impresa of Queen Margaret of Navarre "   4 23
Spider-work Figs. 6, 7 24
Fan Made at Burano Plate IV 24
Italian Punto Reale "     V 24
Grande Dantelle au Point devant l'Aiguille Fig. 8 28
Petite Dantelle Figs. 9-12 29
Passement au Fuseau Figs. 13, 14 30
Passement au Fuseau Fig. 15 31
Merletti a Piombini "   16 31
Italian.—Modern Reproduction at Burano Plate VI 32
Heraldic (Carnival Lace) "   VII 32
Old Mechlin Fig. 17 35
Italian, Venetian, Flat Needle-point Lace Plate VIII 36
Portion of a Band of Needle-point Lace "       IX 36
Guipure Fig. 18 39
Tape Guipure "   19 40
Italian.—Point de Venise à la Rose Plate X 44
Italian.—Point Plat de Venise " IXI 46
Italian.—Point de Venise à Réseau " XII 48
Mermaid Lace Fig. 20 50
Reticella "   21 50
Punto a Gropo "   22 52
Gros Point de Venise "   23 52
Punto a Maglia "   24 53
Punto Tirato "   25 54

Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées

"   26 54
Venise Point "   27 55
Gros Point de Venise "   28 56
Point de Venise "   29 56
Point Plat de Venise "   30 56
Point de Venise à Réseau "   31 58
Burano Point "   32 60
Italian.—Modern Point de Burano Plate XIII 60
Italian.—Modern Reproduction at Burano "    XIV 62
Italian.—Milanese, Bobbin-made "    IXV 64
Reticella from Milan Fig. 33 65
Italian.—Venetian, Needle-made Plate XVI 66
Italian.—Milanese, Bobbin-made "   XVII 66
Unfinished Drawn-work Fig. 34 69
Cushion made at the School Plate XVIII 70
Italy.—Group of Workers at Brazza School "      XIX 70
Genoa Point, Bobbin-made Fig. 35 74
Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita "   36 76
Italian.—Bobbin Tape With Needle-made Réseau Plate XX 76
Italian, Genoese.—Border "   XXI 76
Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book Fig. 37 77
Fringed Macramé "   38 80
Italian.—Old Peasant Laces, Bobbin-made Plates XXII, XXIII 80
Italian.—Modern Peasant Lace Plate XXIV 80
Silk Gimp Lace Fig. 39 84
Sicilian.—Old Drawn-work Plate XXV 84
South Italian "   XXVI 84
Reticella, or Greek Lace Fig. 40 85
Loubeaux de Verdale "   41 88
Italian, Rapallo—Modern Peasant Lace Plate XXVII 88
Maltese.—Modern Bobbin-made "   XXVIII 88
Bobbin Lace (Ceylon) Fig. 42 89
The Work Room (16th century engraving) "   43 91
Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun "   44 94
Spanish.—Modern Thread Bobbin Lace Plate XXIX 94
Spanish, Blonde.—White Silk Darning on Machine Net "     XXX 94
Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun Fig. 45 95
Unfini"hed Work"of a Span" "   46 96
Old Spanish Pillow Lace "   47 100
Portrait, Duchesse de Montpensier Plate XXXI 100
Jewish " IXXXII 104
Spanish " XXXIII 104
Bobbin Lace (Madeira) Fig. 48 106
Bobbin"Lace (Brazil) "   49 107
Spanish.—Pillow-made 19th Century Plate XXXIV 108
Paraguay.—"Nauduti" "     XXXV 108
Lace-making Fig. 50 110
Flemish.—Portion of Bed-Cover Plate XXXVI 110
Cap of Emperor Charles V. Fig. 51 112
Isabella Clara Eugenia, Daughter of Philip II. "   52 112
Mary, Queen of Hungary, Cuff "   53 113

Belgian Lace School

"   54 114
Old Flemish Bobbin Lace "   55 114
Old Flemish.—Trolle Kant "   56 115
Brussels.—Point d'Angleterre à Brides Plate XXXVII 116
Flemish.—Tape Lace, Bobbin-made "   XXXVIII 116
Brussels Needle-Point Fig. 57 118
Brussel" Needle-" "   58 120
Brussels.—Point à l'Aiguille "   58 A 120
Old Brussels.—Point d'Angleterre "   59 122
Old Br"ssels.—P"int d'Ang" "   60 124
Mechlin, 17th and 18th Century Plate XXXIX 126
Mechlin.—Period Louis XVI. Fig. 61 127
Mechlin, formerly belonging to H.M. Queen Charlotte "   62 128
Mechlin.—Three Specimens From Victoria and Albert Museum Plate XL 128
A Lady of Antwerp Fig. 63 130
Antwerp Pot Lace "   64 130
Valenciennes Lace of Ypres "   65 132
Flemish.—Flat Spanish Bobbin Lace Plate XLI 132
Flemish.—Guipure de Flandre " VXLII 134
Belgian.—Bobbin-made, Binche " IXLIII 136
Belgia".—Bobbi"-made, Marche " IXLIV 136
Drawn and Embroidered Muslin, Flemish " IIXLV 136
Ruff, Edged With Lace " IXLVI 142
Brussels.—Flounce, Bobbin-made " XLVII 144
Cinq-Mars.—M. de Versailles Fig. 66 145
Cinq"Mars.—After his portrait by Le Wain "   67 146
Lace Rose and Garter "   68 147
Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III "   69 148
Brussels.—Bobbin-made, Period Louis XIV. Plate XLVIII 150
Bru"els.—Point d'Angleterre à Réseau "     XLIX 150
Anne of Austria Fig. 70 151
A Courtier of the Regency "   71 152
Canons of Louis XIV "   72 154
Chateau de Louvai "   73 156
Chenille Run on a Bobbin-ground Plate L 156
Brussels.—Bobbin-made "   LI 156
Le Grand Bébé Fig. 74 162
Louvois, 1691 "   75 163
Madame de Maintenon "   76 164
Lady in Morning déshabille "   77 165
Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque "   78 168
Madame du Lude en Steinkerque "   79 168
Madame Palatine "   80 169
Brussels.—Modern Point de Gaze Plate LII 170
Madame Sophie de France, 1782 Fig. 81 175
Madame Adélaide de France "   82 176
Madame Louise de France Plate LIII 176
Madame Thérèse Fig. 83 177
Marie-Antoinette "   84 179
Madame Adélaide de France "   85 182

French.—Border of Point Plat de France

Plate LIV 188
Colbert, + 1683 Fig. 86 189
Venice Point "   87 191
French.—Point d'Alençon Plate LV 192
Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé Fig. 88 194
Bed made for Napoleon I. "   89 197
Alençon Point à Petites Bredes "   90 200
Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. "   91 200
Point d'Alençon. Flounce Plate LVI 202-3
Point d'Argentan Fig. 92 204
Poi"t d'Arg"ntan. Grande Bride ground "   93 206
French.—Point d'Argentan, 18th Century Plate LVII 208
Point de Paris Fig. 94 210
Point de France "   95 210
French (or Dutch).—Victoria and Albert Museum Plate LVIII 212
Chantilly Fig. 96 214
Cauchoise "   97 217
French, Chantilly.—Flounce Plate LIX 218
French, Le Puy.—Black Silk Guipure "    LX 218
Petit Poussin, Dieppe Fig. 98 219
Ave Maria, Dieppe "   99 220
Point de Dieppe "  100 221
Dentelle à la Vierge "  101 222
Duc de Peuthièvre "  102 223
French.—Blonde Male, in Spanish Style Plate LXI 226
Modern Black Lace of Bayeux Fig. 103 227
Point Colbert "   104 228
Valenciennes, 1650-1780 "   105 230
Valen"iennes, Period, Louis XIV. "   106 232
Valen"iennes, 17th and 18th Century Plate LXII 232
Valen" Fig. 107 234
Valenciennes Lappet "   108 234
Lille "   109 236
Li" "   110 238
Arras "   111 240
French, Cambrai Plates LXIII, LXIV 246
French, le Puy Plate LXV 246
Point de Bourgogne Fig. 112 256
William, Prince of Orange Plate LXVI 258
Dutch Bobbin Lace Fig. 113 260
Tomb of Barbara Uttmann "   114 261
Barbara Uttmann "   114 A 262
Swiss, Neuchatel Plate LXVII 264
German, Nuremberg " ILXVIII 264
English, Bucks " IIILXIX 264
Hungarian.—Bobbin Lace " IIIILXX 268
Austro-Hungarian " IIILXXI 268
Shirt Collar of Christian IV. Fig. 115 273
Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin "   116 274
Russian—Needlepoint; German—Saxon Plate LXXII 276
Russian, Old Bobbin-made "   LXXIII 276

Russian, Bobbin-made in Thread

"   LXXIV 280
Dalecarlian Lace Fig. 117 281
Collar of Gustavus Adolphus "   118 282
Russia, Bobbin-made, 19th Century "   119 284
Cap, Flemish or German Plate XXV 288
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 120 292
English.—Cutwork and Needle-point Plate LXXVI 292
English.—Devonshire "Trolly." "   LXXVII 292
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 121 293
Marie de Lorraine Plate LXXVIII 298
Queen Elizabeth's Smock Fig. 122 308
Christening Caps, Needle-made Brussels Figs. 123, 124 309
Mary Sidney, Countess of Pembroke Plate LXXIX 316
Henry Wrothesley, Third Earl of Southampton "    LXXX 320
Monument of Princess Sophia Fig. 125 321
Mon"ment "f Pri"cess Mary "   126 322
Mary, Countess of Pembroke "   127 323
Elizabeth, Princess Palatine Plate LXXXI 326
Falling Collar of the 17th Century Fig. 128 327
Boots, Cuffs Figs. 129, 130 328
English Needle-made Lace Fig. 131 328
James Harrington Plate LXXXII 332
James, the Old Pretender, and His Sister, Princess Louisa "   LXXXIII 344
John Law, the Paris Banker "   LXXXIV 352
Ripon Fig. 132 373
English, Buckinghamshire, Bobbin Lace Plate LXXXV 374
Buckinghamshire Trolly Fig. 133 381
Bucking"amshire Point "   134 382
Bucking"amshire Po" "   135 383
English, Northamptonshire, Bobbin Lace Plate LXXXVI 384
Old Flemish Fig. 136 385
Old Brussels "   137 385
"Run" Lace, Newport Pagnell "   138 386
English Point, Northampton "   139 386
"Baby" Lace, Northampton "   140 387
nB"byn L"ce Beds "   141 387
nB"byn L"ce Bucks "   142 387
Wire Ground, Northampton "   143 388
Valenciennes " "   144 388
Regency Point, Bedford "   145 389
Insertion, " "   146 389
Plaited Lace, " "   147 392
Raised Plait, " "   148 393
English, Suffolk, Bobbin Lace Plate LXXXVII 394
English Needle-made Lace Fig. 149 396
Honiton With the Vrai Réseau Plate LXXXVIII 402
Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire Fig. 150 404
Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral "   151 406
Monument of Lady Doddridge Exe"er Cath" "   152 407
Honiton, sewn on plain pillow ground "   153 408

Old Devonshire

"   154 408
Honiton Guipure "   155 410
Honeysuckle, Sprig of Modern Honiton "   156 411
Old Devonshire Point "   157 412
Lappet made by the late Mrs. Treadwin of Exeter "   158 412
Venetian Relief in Point "   159 414
English.—Devonshire. Fan Made at Beer for the Paris Exhibition, 1900 Plate LXXXIX 416
Sir Alexander Gibson Fig. 160 424
Scotch, Hamilton "   161 431
Irish, Youghal Plate XC 436
Irish, Carrickmacross " IIXCI 442
Irish, Limerick Lace " IXCII 442
Irish, Crochet Lace " XCIII 446
Arms of the Framework Knitters' Company Fig. 162 447
The Lagetta, or Lace-bark Tree "   163 456
Metre P. Quinty Figs. 164, 165 460
Pattern Book, Augsburg "   166, 167 462
Augsburg Fig. 168 463
Le Pompe, 1559 "   169 473
Manner of Pricking Pattern "   170 486
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605 "   171 492
Monogram "   172 492
"Bavari," from "Ornamento nobile" of Lucretia Romana "   173 498